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Muff Slayer

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Everything posted by Muff Slayer

  1. Have this deacceleration noise also, v7 sti all stock standard so don't think flywheel theory is a given. Only started few weeks ago after not using car for 2 months. Had a quick look on web myself and no sure fix. Some mention bearing in transfer case, mounts, heat shields, pilot bearing, tire pressures! Etc etc. Will get a shop to look at it next service. Please post if you find a cure for yours. Will do the same. Good luck!
  2. Yes correct about bugeye beauty. The styling was 15 years ahead of its time and only coming into vogue now. Just take a look at current 911's , they are all bugeyes. Subaru were just ahead of themselves back in 2000. Future classic!
  3. And still to the present day the pick of these is the v7 ej207 with its factory forged pistons. Bugeye was good for something huh. They don\'t build them like they used to.
  4. Only in America!! http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=BY1u_T328rw&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DBY1u_T328rw [me=JoKer]was here[/me] mobile links dont work try to see Automated Vacuum Cleaner Not Always Better!!!.wmv featuring a Dog and his business
  5. Have a look at these on trademe from NZAD. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/brakes/auction-556725446.htm or search sti rotor in TM. Seem like a good price at $219 for fronts and trader has excellent feedback. They can supply rears as well. Wouldn\'t bother with slotted/drilled etc, why pay xtra to kill your pads quicker on a street car. I need pad and rotor replacement as well. Have purchased a full set of Cosworth Streetmaster pads and will probably buy 4 of these rotors unless some one recommends me otherwise.
  6. The car - stock nz 2001 sti The Problem- electric folding mechanism in door mirror is shot. It will close or open 1 way, but to return just makes a click, click noise and wont fold open. When I have to force open by hand makes a grating noise and mirror feels loose on the hinge in correct position. The Question- Have been told requires whole new mirror and motor. Is this correct or can these mechanisms be fixed without replacing?
  7. Thanks will mention it to shop. I know Upper engine cleaner has not been used since I have owned it
  8. Thanks will get PCV checked out. Have owned the car for 7 years and has been no prob so far other than water pump issue and clutch. Have serviced every 6-8 k. Will get it sorted as want to keep it for a while yet. Car is running fine and oil level hasnt dropped over 5k so its not a lot of oil leaking but gonna check leak anyway
  9. Maybe im missing something but...... car is nz v7 sti 100,000k. small amount of oil seems to be leaking from the turbo to intercooler elbow pipe (red with a metal notch on the side) and covering hoses below and dripping on engine block. Pretty sure its originating from this pipe as is oily to touch and this is the hightest point of the oil trial. Is this common. Always thought that only hot air would pass through this pipe and if there was a small amount of blowby oil would not be of quantity to cause a visual oil leak?? Either way realize I will need to replace the elbow, just wondering if anything else I should check out? Going in for service in 1k so will get it done then.
  10. Put in a brand new cosworth longblock with one of garretts finest and you will be rocking dude 8)
  11. Washed the old bug-eyed bitch, put $100 gas in it and drove to the bank to fix my mortgage for 18 months at 6%. Realized I cant upgrade car for another 7 years. Could be worse because its driving well
  12. Does this issue throw a CEL light? I have vowed not to fix something unless its broken :-\
  13. Replaced clutch with heavy duty exedy item. Does not slip now at 160km/h in 6 th gear. Replaced fuel filter, changed oil and tightened rear hub bolts. Oh and replaced clock that hasn't been working for the last year. Kicked the tyres, pressure fine
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