2themoon

Today I followed the loom from the NPS, turns out the loom to the sensor was broken, found both wires broken up under the dash, god knows how that happened. So all sorted now, check light blinks rapidly no fault codes, so glad I found that ;D that one sensor can cause so many other faults. Thanks everyone for their input much appreciated ;D

Cleaned the earth points no problems with earth. Tested ecu for ground on all terminals, and at plug connections all earths fine they all are very earthy, re wired extra earths to engine and rear of trans, still getting cels. I think its time to burn it. I realize now why the previous owner got rid of it. It had a bag of sensors in the glove box, I guess he tried changing them all as well and got pissed off. Can anyone please recommend a Subaru dealer or Mechanic that actually knows there stuff and has awesome diagnostic skills meaning they do not swap out parts guessing its this or that ?

I have checked the earths from the chassis to the bellhousing and cleaned them also I have run a earth from the alternator to the chassis, is there any other place were I could ground it ?

Ok so I got a few problems with my 1998 Wrx STI, I know a little but not alot. Here goes, Morning start up is fine, then I drive for 5 minutes and it brings up a cel. I park up at work for 8 hours, come back to car and when I start it its like it idles very very low and cuts out sometimes until its warm, it produces this same symptom everyday. I connect the 2 black diagnostic plugs to see what code it throws, it throws code 24 Idle air control valve ( I have tried multiple IACV\'s ) I clear the code, drive again and it comes back, I notice it is more likely to come back when I am changing down through the gears 3rd to 2nd. I disconnect the black connectors and connect the green ones and drive the car for a couple of minutes, it throws another cel code 51 Neutral Position Swiitch. I turn the car off, with ignition on I depress the acceleration pedal then bring it back up half way for 2 seconds, then I start the car and hold the revs at 2000rpm for 1-2 minutes then it throws another cel code 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor, The speedo still works fine. I was wondering if anyone can shed some light on this situation, as I have already changed the neutral position sensor and I still get the same code reoccurring ? Could any of the above sensors be causing the others to bring up a cel ? Would love some input Cheers ;D

I actually got the car to make some money off it ;D yes it had a few problems obviously why the guy who had it got rid of it because he didnt have the knowledge to fix it, but now its all fixed and goes really good ;D Its only smart that I advertise it on here with all the Subaru enthusiasts ;D

Ok so heres an update, turns out the MAF being plugged in was not the reason for high idling, bad idling, over fueling and hard starting, it was the water temperature sensor this is the one underneath the intake manifold near the throttle body checked the resistance readings and they were jumping up down and all over the show, so i replaced this sensor and it now runs perfectly and wow does it go fast it comes on boost really well, im really impressed with its performance. Thanks for everyone's input

Yeah lou it was still running a maf, I talked to a tuner today who told me that it should not be plugged in haha, the guy I got it from also told me he replaced the maf because it wasnt running right, I unplugged it so now it starts first pop every time and runs so much better but it still has a high idle and I could hear a relay under the dash switching sometimes when I rev the engine and sometimes it doesnt, turns out it is really really hot to touch, I unplugged it and wacked it a couple of times put it back in and the car runs sweet, this is not normal hopefully if I replace this Silver relay it will solve the problem. Heres hoping

http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/4584/sam2745k.jpg http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/7703/sam2746.jpg http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/2104/sam2739t.jpg Not sure what model this is at all, might be an earlier model.

[ Just checked it has a link computer inside, (1996 SUBARU V3.3) it says on the back of the motherboard. Kaka!!!!! that means I will have to pay $$$$ to get it tuned. Fingers crossed hopefully not ;D

yeah not sure if it has a link computer ? It doesnt hunt on idle it just goes up to 1500rpm also wont start properly when its hot. I will have to check the ecu maybe it has a link replacement plug n play ?

Engine is stock standard. I do not have a Picture at the moment

Help help help Please Ok so I scored this 94 sti the other day. It had a few issues, rev counter not working, blow off valve on backwards arrow pointing towards the y-pipe ? y-pipe installed on an angle leaving air gap, sorted all that out. Then I noticed it idles at 1500rpm. Took it for a 40 minute drive, in that time the idle went from 1500 to 800 a couple of times when it felt like it ? Came home turned it off to open garage jumped back to start it then it would not start. I tried starting it for 5 minutes then it slowly chugged up to 1500rpm and I put it away stunk of fuel. it only doesnt start when its hot. I thought this might have been IAC valve or maf sensor, but it is not, I swapped out parts from another working wrx and still the same symptoms. has anyone had a similar problem ? The car goes really good anything above 3000rpm doesn't miss or backfire. Is there a way to set the IAC valve properly ? what resistances is it suppose to read ? Also could this be the engine temperature sensor, Crank angle or cam shaft postion sensors breaking down when they are hot ? Does anyone know the correct resistance values for these sensors. Another thing is for the life of me I cannot get the engine check light to work so I cant diagnose it myself. I changed the bulb still no luck, Someone told me that if your ecu was chipped with a possum bourne chip then that might be the case? my car has a possum sticker on it. Hoping someone can shed some light on my situation cheers Rob

Daiyama adjustable suspension I forget what model I had but I can say from my experience these are awesome, pillow ball mounted, soft to hard adjustment, 30cm adjustment up or down ride height and ride quality was awesome had them very low and they did not bottom out when you ran over a pot hole or feel like you were in a boat when you hit a rise in the road at speed. I have driven on few other brands Tein koni D2 and BC and have found that daiyama were awesome for (road use) these were purchased from SAS ;D Oh and I paid just over $1400 3 years ago

A technician told me they wont line up exactly dead on straight with each other they are off a little because of the castings a picture of a diagram of course it will look straight on the picture

So I did the cam belt yesterday easy as fixed alot of my problems I was having , the only problem I found was that all the marks did not line up dead on , found out that subaru made a stuff up on there castings but kept printing them why would they do that ....