killervq30de
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Posts posted by killervq30de
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1 hour ago, aaronpnz said:
Well... no.
I don't have the car back yet, nearly 2 weeks now. I think they have determined it's not the turbo that needs replacing, and ran it through boost and smoke tests, and have found a fuel pump problem. They've replaced the fuel pump but are still having issues, I'm not sure what exactly what the issues are. It's at Macbilt I think.
I'll keep you posted...
It is a worry they blamed the turbo to begin with.. I know your pain though not knowing what the outcome/bill is, I had my engine pop last year. As it seems to be fuel related could it be bad coil packs?
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On 30/06/2018 at 5:46 PM, Andy_Mac said:
Geez... do people actually pay $600-800 a year servicing their Subaru’s. Would have to be doing some serious km’s to justify that cost. Suppose dealerships like to rip you for things like genuine cabin air filters...
Winger Subaru economy service is $200 .. no air filters. And I think about $350 for full service with airbox filter. Main difference seemed to be that they don't take the wheels off to inspect just look at brakes and the like with them on.
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On mine, it was obvious, but I missed the bolt that is behind the badge on the back , I though maybe that just slid on to a stud.. but no theres a bolt. I never managed to get the hand pull bit off the right hand side so I could fully remove the plastic but it was enough to install my reversing camera where the number plate light is
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"when changing gear. Instead of the revs dropping , it stays at whatever rpm it was before the change. " is that when changing down the revs stay the same, changing up they will stay the same if in the same rpm range
"clutch depressed (in gear), foot off the accelerator and the car just rolling along, the RPMs rises suddenly to about 2500 then drops down to idle. A few seconds later it does this again. As long as the above conditions are in force it will do this until I put the gear in neutral.or stop completely. "
So you have the car in gear and clutch pushed in .. so the clutch is engaging again, lower clutch fluid/pressure/spring
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1 hour ago, aaronpnz said:
Mechanic says turbo has gone... that might explain it... somewhat...
I don't think so .. its knocking under load, quite heavily. Anything over -2.81 is bad
If it was a vac leak it would add fuel. Just this week my BTSSM was showing at idle it was adding 15%, luckly for me it was just a little vac hose had popped off my the intake manifold. It does add fuel under load but I think that's normal but obviously not that high... should be <=5%You should add fuel learn % to your logs as well as FKC FLKC. You should be able to log the major counters with BTSSM. Resetting your ECU will just mask the error. IAM needs to be at 1.0 before the car is happy you are back at normal operating levels, reset drops that to 0.5, yours dropped lower than .5
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4 hours ago, A_J_T said:
I just got a letter in the post for my 2004 Outback.
Then checked http://recall.subaru.co.jp/lqsb/ and got the below. <--- copy and past it all into google translate
Number Implementation Status Category Content Reporting Date (Start Date) Remarks
1 Recalled recall Legacy airbag recall 2016/06 / 30 【Caution for cars not yet implemented】
Although you can update the car inspection, please contact the nearest dealer as soon as possible to repair it.
2 Recalled recall About recall of Legacy 2005/07/06
3 Performed services
About the campaign legacy service campaign 2005/02/14We apologize sincerely for your inconvenience.
I got for 2007 Legacy .. interesting that it says the Passenger airbag might need replacing if not already done in japan (mine was imported 2008 so doubt it). Doesn't mention drivers airbag though?? I have to wait for a second letter to confirm that it does need doing
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16 minutes ago, csrgm1915 said:
Is it possible to check learning values through a OBDii unit or would I need to have th cable and BTSSM? I imagine th tuner will have all option.
I haven’t had a compression test done since purchasing the car but I think that being slow may be because it’s an automatic. The guys at Rapid are supposed to be really good and shouldn’t tune it to blow up (hopefully)
My question for those who have had tunes.... can you edit SI Drive maps individually (so eco is mellow and sport sharp goes mental) or is it made up of increasing all 3 settings?
Im pretty excited for Monday though, updates to follow for sure
You need to use BTSSM like tool or what ever the tuner uses. With SI Drive yes you can .. I have different requested boost levels for the different modes.
If they do start seeing knock when it gets up above 5k .. I dunno i'd tune it to low safe then leave it alone. They will of course stop if starts knocking where it shouldn't but just be extra wary based on other peoples experiences. Manual's seem to tune different to the autos. Not sure if maybe a rolling road instead of hub dyno wouldn't be better too
Oh and 3-port boost solenoid gives the tuner better control.. maybe consider adding that before starting
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4 hours ago, csrgm1915 said:
I’ve finally got around to getting my tune (this Monday) so I’ll let you know how I get on
Autos seem to be problematic either for some tuners or in general.. I fully recommend checking the Learned Values in the ECU, if you are seeing lots of negative numbers that's not good, I think this would give an indication of overall health. If you find even in sport # it doesn't have punch then it might already be down on power/health. My engine popped on the dyno, new EJ207 short block + recond heads and '000s later its back to just above stock power levels
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20 hours ago, TLMH said:
Will the BTSSM App work Via Tactrix cable to a Tablet?
mines working with a $6 VAG cable to an Android tablet. You don't need the $100+ cable just to use the BTSSM dashboard
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I went with an Android heat unit to replace the factory stereo .. mine is huge but you can get smaller single DIN models. Takes away the hassle of mounting solutions + power management. Auto shuts down with car and stays in sleep time for 30mins then full power down(configurable).
still haven't take the plastic film off the front yet
but the VAG cable,etc is nicely routed now
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On 24/12/2017 at 9:56 AM, sobanoodle said:
Google is your best friend.
To be a bit more specific that harness (and the wire you need) actually runs under LHS sill plates and then goes up and behind the dash.
PS: looks like it is a brown/yellow wire.
On my AV cable it has a trigger wire .. carries the 12volt signal from the reverse lights where the camera is to the stereo
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Gauges are good I guess.. but if you are too busy hard out driving it you won't even get to look at them .. digital with peak hold,etc would be ok.
I've got Android car stereo with the 10.2" screen($450) and BTSSM running, so I get gauges and logging/alerts, just using the VAG cable too ($8)
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On 12/01/2018 at 11:52 AM, 1randomkiwi said:
Worked out I can turn off the engine without turning off accessory power with keyless ignition.
Apply parking brake, hit Start/Stop button, then move gear selector to park.I park brake on, put in neutral, Start/stop then shift to park. Just saying as it sounds like you leave it in drive, id prefer to cut the engine load before turning off.
Side note I have a 2007 Legacy BP - have you tried the morse code drivers door handle trick to get in without keys/fob - doesn't seem to work for me
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Update I'm on drugs. Seems to all be working, now no changes made...
Someone nuke this thread
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5 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Pretty sure you’d be after @ADIKT not adict @killervq30de
I always have my headlights on regardless of day or night so don’t think I ever even bothered setting it up.
Have heard of people whinging about the brightness of this kit regardless of dimmed/non dimmed mode but don
6 hours ago, sobanoodle said:I did not have any issues with wiring nor I had to cut anything.
Plug'n'play for the stereo pretty much (with ISO harnesses), no dimming issues. For SWC I just tapped into i85, not sure why you cut the i85 off completely.
Clock sits on a different harness, factory stereo/AC controls have their own dimming wire so I am not sure why both act the same and stay dim all the time.
Find pin-outs for the stereo harness and see if dimming wire on yours is at correct pin.
’t mind it myself.
With the stereo I could only use the speaker ISO plug. As the Android head unit, for the power iso plug also had the swc controls built in while the stereo adapter doesn't, couldn't easily add pins. Used the radio provided iso plug that had bare ends to make the power and swc connections. The radio dims just fine when lights are turned off and goes bright when back on.
The i85 plug has a green dimmer wire, I presumed based on the US site information above that the dimmer wire goes into stereo and comes back out on the i85 to body unit and then to the ac/clock. I'm never going back to factory so it didn't bother me about chopping the i85 plug.
If the i85 doesnt affect clock or hvac, I can't see why they always stay dim. Especially if you guys are just using stock iso adapters and not touching the i85 except for swc
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BumpBump for me..
Any of your double din guys hooked up the dimmer or illumination wire to make the clock /hvac not be dim?
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14 hours ago, Flyhigh02 said:
Hi mate, Sorry but is this still available? If so could you please txt me 0275691998.
Kind regards,
No sorry went in the bin
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Seicane S181016
Fitment worked out really well. You can tilt the screen up, down left and right. AND slide the whole screen up or down so I could make it lower cover the AC controls or higher cover the clock more.
I still have the factory plastic on the screen as I need to remove again when the reversing camera comes. I plan on using a Galaxy tab screen protector cut to size or maybe the larger iPad pro. Think this will help with the glare too.
BTSSM is using a $6 Aliexpress VAG cable with USB straight into headunit not needing separate OTG adapter. I presume its okay to leave the VAG cable always connected?
Screen tilted flat - this is a really side on angle.. in normal sitting you can't see the mount at all
And tilted down
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Put the JDM 2DIN dash kit in with aftermarket stereo and the clock/AC is dim like in night mode/headlights on
Can anyone confirm how to fix it?
I have already cut the i85 plug off (using 2 of the 3 wire for Steering Wheel Controls) leaving the Green wire #8 which is for dimmer.
What can i connect the Green #8 wire to without having to mess with the i88 connector?
From legacy GT site where they have to add wires from stock wiring harness to handle the JDM (our) AC units :
Add a wire to pins, 2,4 and 8 on the i88 connector(hvac) Doesn't matter what color, just "jam" them in and zip tie the wires so they won't pull out. I also wrapped the wires around the harness(see pic) so they would have a little more play. the other ends of the those 3 wires will be spiced in(either side of the radio plug see pic for placement) if you do not want to splice into your factory wiring(as I didn't) you can put the illumination ground or negative or whatever you want to call it(-) onto regular ground, however you will only have 2 settings dim and bright(ok for me)
The non- ghetto way just requires you to add actual pins to the harness but seeing as I don't have those, its ghetto but it works.
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12 hours ago, sobanoodle said:
Not sure why you'd want a stock camera.
a) $$$
b) crap resolution
I installed a "$10 shipped ebay special" camera in my old BLE and it was miles better than a crappy factory camera in a much newer BR9.
My mistake has caused confusion
Not Stock Location and Not Stock Camera
I want this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/wireless-wire-for-sony-ccd-HD-Car-Rear-View-Reverse-backup-Camera-for-SUBARU-FORESTER-IMPREZA/32215223171.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.265.MxJK5l that replaces the left/right Numberplate light
I'm going to go ahead and order it, I just don't want to pull apart the whole boot lid and find I can't actually access the number late lights from behind
So not stock on the far left but one of the two number plate lights
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So I found a video of how to pull the boot lid apart .. but with his shaky camera action I can't see if the plate lights are reachable?
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I want to install a wireless reversing camera in what seems to be the factory position? The left or right plate light. When I tried to remove one of the lights the screw metal was soft as butter and stripped the head good
so will need to sort that hopefully with my actual question.
With the BP I assume if I pull off all the carpet/plastic trim on the boot lid, I will get to the back of the number plate lights and I can drop the light out that way and get better access to put the wireless transmitter in and do the other wiring?
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On 22/10/2017 at 6:38 PM, gotasuby said:
Nz new got 2 reverse lights. So much better
And you can actually see at night probably instead of with just the one
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11 hours ago, ADIKT said:
Where are you installing it? Are you putting it in place of the factory stereo? It might block your hazard light switch
Edit: to me it looks like it would fit with no issues
Yep, I got the dash kit. I think it will stick out enough and it can rotate.. So main concern is clearing top of dash. I can fish for hazard.
but the VAG cable,etc is nicely routed now
so will need to sort that hopefully with my actual question.
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Airflow sensonr - partsouq.com ?
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
I have no clue of part numbers or where I should be looking for a MAF on partsouq.com.. can anyone assist please?
Legacy BP GT-B 2007 MY08 2Litre