rex-leggy

if its the complete v7 engine then a link is the easiest way . then just rewire engine loom to suit. if you just use the v7 shortblock thats the most strait foward option. (as above headgastets to suit) need more details really

did you ever regrease the swaybar d bushes. they look dry as fark!

keep it ot or gtfo . as roo said if ya dont like it go look at a diff thread. cleaned up a bit funky - and some more

and keys were no where to be found :\'(

i got given 4 new tie rod ends a few days ago . fella was going to toss them out . what do they cost out of interest? today i ordered all the teflon fuel line and fittings for my car. that adds up BIG!

ill agree that looks ugly but I think flares look very nice

thats prob because theres a boost leak. the hose that goes to the bov, is it even sealed ? if not boon is right and it will get worse

Probably the Version 6 RA if that\'s a thing. Or perhaps the Version 7 Spec C. Maybe the S204 or 22B, depends how you define performance. V10 WRX STI Spec C Type RA-R ;D 22b gta be top performer

I thought so but not 100% so playing it safe. I ended up welding - fittings onto bh rails

some bh leggys have the correct rails also

i think what he means is you all do this

gta look like an ass sometimes ill own it we deal with cables to carry current ... dont factor resistance because such cabel will carry blah balh over blah blah distance

once you can spell what you\'re talking about you can enter the argument :-* if you\'re worried about voltage drop over distance.. whats will help limit that i wonder.... considering a thicker wire has lower resistance. you grab a 5 meter piece of say 2.5mm2 cabel and compare the resistance to the same legnth of say 50mm2 and tell me the difference . itll be stuff all. you make it bigger for the currant not resistance edit .... quote fail cbf fixing

nothing to do with resistance . currant carrying capacity over distance

or top feed conversion

ive had nothing but bad alignments . even when telling them how you want it they just don\'t listen and change nothing. ill borrow a camber gauge and just do it myself from now on . unless there\'s someone that will do it how i want it

+1 to above

will have to have a measure up when they arive

i know ill be able to run 11s with a 315 cray cray

i have some flares on the way for my v7/v10 mongrel . now i can find some wide a fark rims!

just my opnion. but for a little extra (machine costs) id go for .5 oversized pistons. I built a ej20 with factory sized je forged pistons and it is quite slappy when cold. atleast with the oversized you can get the tolerances much closer. from when I was researching head volumes I found that ej20 r and k heads both are the same being 46cc\'s only thing I can say is future proof. im doing my 3rd engine now and wish I just did it all from the start. but that all depends if you have future plans

nice good info I likely

without reading the thread you posted is there gains when it comes to rod ratios?

just you alread have a 2.2 block . what would the effect be of chaging gudgen height and making the rods longer other than having to have custom rods and pistons? my thinking was a longer rod is going to be weaker. also the cost of getting a block compared to custom parts which would win. I gues ive had to many drinks and read somthing wrong

a 2.2 is a 2l stroke with 2.2 bore and a destoke will be happier to rev