Jono24

Is this Furzes car, Is it still the same engine in it? I'm keen to see what it pulls. Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

You can use an r180 with r160 axles by using custom races. Google suberdave iirc.

I've thought about similar projects (was a bh5 wagon with blown head gasket for 500). I think the profit would be better just replacing like for like as cheaply as possible to sell a working car. I think 1400 is a bit high for one of these, you won't know what else needs replacing till you get it running and drive it. Modified cars are worth no more than stock ones from what I've seen on TM.

There are only two laws with regards to private vehicles towing (I know of). Your driver license class. Being able to stop from 30 km/h within 7m. I have researched this reasonably thoroughly, and this is quite a ridiculous statement.

Who'd you go to? I'm with Tower, they were pretty good with accepting all the mods. They were more worried about the total value of an older car.

There is the s401 sti, but they weren't produced till 2002 iirc.

Hi guys, I've had a 20 minute search and couldn't find any. Does anyone have or know of any cad files or dimensioned drawings for the ej20 engine? Particularly the head gasket face of the block or heads, but preferably the whole engine. I'll take anything with dimensions if even an old scanned drawing, or at best a solidworks part file! Cheers

I've got another engine arriving some time this week which I'll strip down and rebuild. I've already got a set of CP forged pistons for it! Doesn't everyone need a spare engine beside the spare wheels?

Went for a drive without the stress of wondering if the car will spontaneously explode, first time in ~12 months, rather enjoyable.

Maybe with meth/ethanol on a relatively stock ej20. VF30 is journal bearing, VF34 ball bearing, slight differences in the turbine housing mean they aren't just bolt-on swaps if keeping the same turbine housing. If the TD05 has the correct compressor housing, sure it ain't that bad to install. Make sure you have the correct restrictor banjo bolt for the oil feed (different to the VF34 restrictor banjo bolt).

That looks awesome! hopefully I'll be ready for the next one.

I should have some results to share for my ej20 holset 14cm this weekend.

I had one the same as Boon, smashed it pretty hard with a sledge and it wouldn't move, and I also mushroomed the top. That axle wasn't going anywhere for a rubber mallet.

My 6 spd gearbox had stubs. Check out naisoc and other forums, there were threads with part numbers and lists of what you need. I don't know if any other axles will work, but I'd be careful that the length is ok for your vehicle, it sounds risky. I thought I needed the stubs and looked into them, don't remember them being to expensive.

I have done it in my be5. Does your six speed box have stubs on it for the front axles or does it need shafts with stubs? You should be using the chassis axles. If it has stubs on the box the chassis shafts will just slot in, otherwise you need to buy the short stubs for the box and appropriate seals (there might be circlips required also) to use the chassis shafts.

My research into Subaru coolant led me to believe it is supposed to be phosphate and amine free for compatibility/corrosion. I'm pretty sure the green Nulon product ticks these boxes (and is what I put in anyway). And when I went to Armstrongs Subaru for coolant down here they sold me Motul.

On what race track can a cvt wrx hit 240 kph?

Old: New:

It can make it easier getting the engine in and out too, mine is pretty tight and the up pipe needs to be dropped in before the engine and then bolted up. I do have a larger (14cm holset) exhaust housing and my ewg is physically big as well making it more awkward.

I should have my Legacy up and running soon so hopefully it lasts till then!

So my last three weekends have been hectic to say the least but the weekend before Easter, Me and the missus drove down from Auckland to Christchurch in a recently purchased 2008 Forester 2.5T auto while towing a 6m fibreglass boat, on a boat trailer I prepared with new brakes and a wof two days before the journey (the boat and trailer were flawless...). I have done this drive a few times now and I quite like the drive (except for the additional 3 hours coming down the west coast of the south island after a long ferry ride!) but this trip had to be different. The Subaru Forester had run a big end previously and had a fresh rebuild put in approximately 6-12 months ago along with all the paper work from the garage, the car also had an AA check just prior to the sale provided by the previous owner. I thought I had done my due diligence on the car. I had driven the car around (without towing) for the previous couple of days without noticing any issues, but a couple of hours into the trip south while towing, when the hills approached, the cars overheat lamp started flashing (SH Foresters don't have temperature gauges). I cranked the heater up to try manage the temp and got to Waiouru before calling it and getting a tow. I had multiple deadlines I was trying to hit and hence why I pushed it this far and didn't stop earlier. We got into Wellington at 11pm on a Sunday night and got the car and boat parked up at our booked Hotel and got some sleep after a long crappy day. I rang Ray Hartley Motors at around 7am Monday and managed to get a hold of Ray who said I could bring the car by for him to have a look at after telling him my story and letting me know he was fully booked. He didn't have to see me and I much appreciated his time, as even on the phone he had already correctly diagnosed the problem. Turns out the radiator was 70% blocked and hence why I was having overheating problems. I'd like to publicly say a big thank you to Ray Hartley for squeezing me in and helping me get on my way again after a very stressful previous day. He has been recommended on here previously and I'd just like to give another recommendation for his work and professionalism.

You might be ruling out possibly good buys by ignoring uncerted stuff and engine tuning, just do all your homework on anything you look at is my best suggestion.

Breather lines, vac lines, coolant header tank and overflow + ~6 wires at the ecu and its ready to start.

B, If you don't remove the rear cam cover you will break it getting the bolt out. If you're up for a cambelt do it then!

Hopefully I'll make the list within the month as long as the engine doesn't s*** the bed.