paulngui

I have an auto BP Legacy GT and the engine died recently. I don't know all the details, as I live in the UK now and it's my dad who's been looking after it. He was taking it out for a run and said it made a "ratcheting" sound then lost power and wouldn't start again. It got towed to our local garage where they were unable to turn the engine by hand. Assuming the heads and the rest of it are ok, can theoretically any EJ20 short block be used if needed? As a short term solution to get it moving under its own power a drop in long block would be another option, but just want to know if I need to be careful about variants, especially if it was mated to an auto vs manual. Or does this not matter? TIA!

Not thinking of doing it, just curious; but can an auto Legacy GT with a VF38 be made to equal the power of the manuals by swapping the turbo for the TD04? Would it be that simple?

No worries! I'd be on them if I hadn't already got a set off them

http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/products/suspension-strut-set-legacy-03-08 Get on it! These don't stick around long.

I bought a car, and it's steering wheel was off centre with unevenly worn front tires. Car got two new front tires and wheel alignment, which sorted the tracking. Around 1000 miles/2 weeks later, the tracking has gone back to how it was before. What could be causing this?

Pre facelift auto GT I'd typically get 450-480km per tank for 95% suburban driving. Road trips out of Akl would typically be around 9L/100km. My best run was a trip to and from one of the beaches out west (Piha I think?) which returned 8.03 L/100km. As an aside, my 1.4L diesel Yaris here in the UK has gotten 4.5L/100km (51mpg) with pretty uneconomical driving - 70-75mph along the motorway with several inclines where I'd keep the pedal down to maintain that speed. If I was to try do get the best economy, I think it'd be good for 60-70mpg!

I think that's just the remote for any models that have keyless entry (I assume only on JDM models)

Is this a big cause for concern? They're two different boots on the same car, one each side. Are the boots just leaking from one of the clamps or is it a case of needing to replace them? Pretty sure the same can be seen on the other two boots that are closest to the wheels.

Yeah that appears to be the concensus. A joke alright, I'm convinced he's trying to get more money from me by saying it needs all these things doing!

It's nearly half the price of the others on the market, presumably as a reflection of the cosmetic body damage which I'm not fussed about. It's a private sale by a young guy who seems to just genuinely want to sell a car that he's no longer needing due to moving close to work.

Anybody? Want to know if I should be avoiding this car or not. Thanks

Hey folks, as the title suggests I'm after some advice regarding a car I'm looking at buying. It's a 02 Yaris diesel which I'm wanting to use for commuting. When I test drove it, it all seemed pretty good, but one thing I noticed was that when driving straight ahead, the steering wheel is off center, about 5-10 degrees clockwise. Didn't seem like a critical issue, just annoying for anyone with OCD. I got a pre-purchase inspection, and the guy I dealt with wasn't exactly confidence inspiring - vague sentences and poor grammar and spelling in his email reporting his findings. Anyway, just got a few questions after what he reported: He said it needs the "front end parts" replacing to sort out the steering issue. When I asked him to elaborate on what parts, he said "lower control arms and two stablizer links and robbers". Does this sound reasonable, and by robbers would he mean rubber bushings? Secondly, he also said front brake discs and pads need changing, as do rear wheel bearings. Looking back at the service receipts, I saw that the car got new front brake discs May 2011, so about 3 years ago. It's done about 33,000kms since then. Is it reasonable for it to need new ones again now? And how long should wheel bearings last? It supposedly got new bearings at the same time as the front discs (i.e. May 2011, ~33,000kms ago) I'm trying to establish what bearings were actually changed as it's not clear. Thanks in advance, and sorry for the novel!

http://www.tokyoeuro.com/ Myself and another member who isn't really on here anymore used a guy called Keven who trades under the name TokyoEuro. He's a nice Kiwi guy who is now based in Japan, and he's really clued up about what can and can't be brought into NZ. He'll also explain exactly how the process works so it's all pretty straight forward.

Check here, yours is a BL http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?39958-Gen-3-and-4-workshop-manuals

Hahaha sweet as. Cheers for the info! http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-400Amp-Jumper-Leads-3M.aspx?pid=296683#Combo Are these adequate for my Subie??

How unadvisable is it to create a longer jumper lead by connecting two shorter ones together?

He also drove a v12 STI around the Nurburgring

Keep posting the locations when you post please

"Subaru Impreza WRC99 tarmac action - with pure engine sounds"

Awesome, are you seriously looking to get one? Or just entertaining the idea?

Free to do online

BadLuck (BL); winning

Often specifies it is unlocked otherwise assume it\'s not If you\'re currently using it here then effectively you\'re using it overseas with a foreign SIM card already? Yup, my thoughts exactly. [quote name='Darkdax55 said: I got myself a parallel imported galaxy s3 4g and its supposed to work in any country on any network . Sweet, good to know. Cheers guys

Totally off-topic, but if I have a parallel imported phone, is it a given that it\'s unlocked and I shouldn\'t have issues using it overseas with an overseas SIM card?

For want of a better thread to post this in, a couple of shots from a morning cruise on Sunday just gone to Port Waikato with some workmates: