Marky

I may have strayed back to the dark side

Does it actually need bigger squirters at this stage? Have you done a pressure test on the whole intake? Have you checked fuel pressure once it comes on boost (fuel pump or reg being sad?)

Yeah exactly - I don't know what hose the half dozen owners who are saying they've done stuff on a rev D have done to be honest And yes agreed re where to plug in the hose - that fulla on the bookface I get the feeling is not too mechanical so didn't want to over complicate it

@Kiwi_Fozze DO YOU KNOW WHO I AM Also by way of follow up My previous two Rev D legacies both had the revised hose arrangement - meaning no "hose 10 mod" to be done, they had a direct line from manifold to BOV from factory I have a Rev C (backlit dash, new interior, old headlights and ECU setup) at the moment which been done, runs 15psi primary by 2400rpm and about 20psi on secondary (there may be another issue here) - it ran about 10 / 14psi before Some rev D apparently do not have a revised hose arrangement? I am confuse by this - I get the feeling there's some confusion re what hoses are even being talked about

Ha @Timmah bumped you off Also contender for worst legacy VOD ever Note - not current car, or the one before it, BH5 with V7 sti top mount, pod filter, big muff and no cats

To be fair it's not the "only" place they test a car It's more an easily understood benchmark for people, like 0-100 times or a HP figure

Was this before or after you found out how far 4th gear stretches? We've all done stupid S*** but pick your battles man

Have you considered buying a forester

I don't mean to be a cock but can't help it... Drifting in front of a cop is not what I'd call driving fairly responsibly Number of tickets incurred does not translate to skill level

Probably but why half arse it Use vag-com cable: Oh no it's pinging I need to fix it, wait I can't Tactrix: It runs mint now I want launch control oh neat I can do that

Removing back pressure can also make the car *safer* than stock as it is less det prone, the risk comes from if boost rises more than safe levels and is left unchecked Do it once, do it right, big downpipe and no cat, then that box is ticked If you buy a tactrix cable you can look for yourself at how it's running (you can look at if it's pulling ignition timing, etc), or you can chuck it on a dyno for a $150 power run which can a) listen for knock and b) check the state of the air / fuel ratios to put your mind at ease The main thing is if in doubt just find out - remember it's a 15 year old car which hasn't had an easy life, it is as prudent a thing to do now and then as an oil change if you're planning on looking after the car

Actually bought something for it, it's receiving a 5 puck h/d exedy clutch once I get the motivation to install it Taking a leaf from @boon's book and saying you know what F***it why not have something a little antisocial in what it realistically a toy car for me

Yeah but, still You'd then have a car making 450hp at 3k rather than 300hp at 3k I'm not sure what the argument is to be fair, they're built around regulations and as you said it has a purpose in mind (maximising performance with that restrictor) For the same cost you could build an S2000 with a twin churbro viper V10 in it Or a monster truck which can do backflips Or like at least 8 jokeravengers and a batbaru Or half a holiday house at the mount Or an ex russian jet fighter I go back to the "compare it to a V8 supercar" analogy - sure you can pick something to model against but that thing has rules to adhere to, if you ignore them then you'll find it very easy to surpass the thing you're comparing to

That doesn't make sense You remove the restrictor and they gain much hp There's heaps of guys who run cars in classes that require a restrictor one week and remove it for events that don't the next - they just make *less* when restricted It's like how kenyan marathon runners have the restrictor of high altitude - when you derestrict them with sea level oxygen it's not like they have a meltdown they just go faster

What is the actual goal here

For what it's worth the same applies to any car built to a set of rules - every second lap time you see in NZ ior AUS s compared to the V8SC times but they're massively hobbled by their regulations Don't the WRC cars make that 300hp at like almost all RPM though?

It's not a small increase in peak power It's a massive difference in knock prevention and power loss People say "Only gain 15hp peak with fmic" What they fail to mention is "Oh but there's also 50hp loss at times with TMIC" Re the shroud - all subarus HAVE a shroud from scoop to intercooler already. If it doesn't then it's been removed and the intercooler is near useless at the moment anyway

I'm disagreeing Even a stock evo (or similar) intercooler and a an ebay piping kit will be a massive improvement over the stock subaru offering

Just remember if you make it harder to get it hot, it's harder to cool it down again Best way to keep engine bay temps down is airflow in and out

I hate to say it but the facebook marketplace and various buy sell pages on there are your best bet Buyer beware as always but it's no worse than trademe or the old buy/sell/exchange paper Looking at mine now there's half a dozen wrx's within a couple hundred km of me for under 3k, ranging from neglected bogan POS's to bone stock People are getting turned off the trademe "$140-to-sell-a-$1500-car" model these days, they want it sold now and they dont want to wait 2 weeks for an auction to end

I can't tell if you're making a great dad pun with "cool" club or not You can make them invisible if you want to keep a stock looking car, but no matter how you dress it up anything you do to improve top mount efficiency is pissing in the wind compared to just putting the cooler in a proper position I know it's a bit crass but my point stands - you can faff about with all the ducting and heat tape and oversized scoops you want but it's ultimately still going to cook itself as soon as the car is stationary for more than a few seconds, and with what a front mount kit costs these days it's a hard to argue proposition. Ive got a couple of small slimline fans in the garage if you want them, I fitted them to the underside of a v7 sti cooler on a gtb and whilst it was semi effective, it still paled in comparison to a cheap trademe front mount As well as that, it's worth going to the effort of straightening out of straightening out your top mount fins - it blows me away how many cars have them all flattened down, it renders the cooler near useless when air can't go through it. Ditto for upgrading to silicone / sti joiner pipes, the old corrugated plastic ones aren't too great. Oh oh also the old line about moving a pod filter into the guard if you have one, give things a head start not a handicap

I wouldn't pay more than half that Look past the nice wheels and it's just another 200km old early wrx, one of thousands. Yes that's about 8k per year but no matter how you dress it up it's getting long in the tooth For the same money - literally - you can have one ten years and two generations newer and less kms We'll be out of fossil fuels before that thing starts to be worth the asking price. If you like the early shape maybe look st a v5/6, the facelift holds value and is worth the cost and still keeps the classic lines. If you look outside trademe and car dealers you'll see a much bigger range available - most dealers don't bother with cars this age or type anymore as they're just a time bomb in their eyes, and fair enough too

A lot Ive done measuring of TMIC temps with and without the under try and it's a startling difference in how quick it cools from being heat soaked Speaking of which - best thing for keeping intake temps down is to lose that top mount you want to keep. The "lag" from a front mount is a load of bollocks and the temp differences are huge in the real world I have run fans under a top mount cooler which does work quite well too, in actual measured terms not guesswork terms The rubber seal at the back of the engine bay is a high pressure area at speed, it pushes air in if you remove it and makes it harder to push air through the bonnet scoop. Leave it in place unless you just want more noise

You'd be dreaming if you bought that with the intention of it appreciating in value If you started with a $1500 "pre loved" example and refurbed it, then sure you'd make some money - good paint and some new alloys can do wonders for the first impression of a car Subarus as a rule are not a make which generally appreciates in value unless you have one of the real rockinghorseshit models - rs/ra, 22b, type r coupe, S20X models etc

Holy sh!t that car is still on the road? That's amazing