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loner

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Posts posted by loner

  1. On 12/23/2016 at 5:44 PM, That Guy said:

    Being that I'm not expert on thermal efficiency I figured some of you guys may have some ideas. Would I be better off leaving the stock heat shields in place or wrap the F***ed with heat wrap? I kinda want to remove the heat sheildsto inspect for leaks, however, it does appear that they are not a simple bolt on, bolt off item. Im not one to be worried about being a butcher to remove things so that's not an issue, just wondering if it's worthwhile. 

    A much better way to check for exhaust leaks is to do a smoke test. Unless you want an up pipe that performs better than stock... leave it stock.

     

     

  2. 12 hours ago, slystiguy said:

     

    Dude... No. You can't talk to people that way. I don't know why you bother saying anything at all... Seems you just like to argue with anyone over anything. You're just so petty, every single frekn time. 

     

    From someone who has gutted the flexis in both headers and uppipe I can assure you this cracking nonsense is only relevant to cheap thin walled A/M headers. Stock cast ones are the business for mods. And this isn't just me talking S*** this is what SAS run on their rally car. The factory system is fine, low maintenance in comparison. I'm sure if heat wrap lasted for 100,000 kms they would use it 

     

    Dude. I can talk to him like that. He is on here giving people who trust anyone who speaks with authority S*** advice. No one ever gets called out on it because everyone is so sensitive. 

     

     

     

  3. 12 hours ago, evowrx said:

     

    Its irrelevant because you havent added one piece of information regarding your theory. But then that is what trolls tend to do. 

     

    The engine runs cooler at a richer afr than a lean one and with timing you can swing it either way at cruise or on boost. Thats where my heads at pretty simple really like me.

     

    If Im wrong I would prefer to be corrected with some substance than plainly told Im wrong and youre right. Feel free to add something to back up your claim.

     

    Im not here to swing my dick like you seem to be, I just like to regurgitate info Ive gleaned from people as Im not a self serving arsehole.

     

    There's nothing to discuss. Foot down is hotter than not. End of story. 

  4. 31 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

    There was no caring mentioned at all in the clubsub terms and agreement registration page :P 

    The saying "Who cares" isnt actually a question asking who is caring

     

    hmm, pretty sure saying "who cares" can only be a question.... unless you mean to make the statement "nobody cares"... but then you obviously care enough to comment... Anyway I'm pretty sure I don't care, I just like bating evowrx because he can be an insufferable know-it-all. He's not as bad a funkytown was, but getting close.

     

  5. 2 hours ago, evowrx said:

    So why can you add fuel to cool the cylinders/increase knock threshold? To a point of course. 

     

    You know you could actually add some fact here if youre as smart as you like to sound rather than talking smack.

     

    Once youre done here give these guys a call and tell them theyre full of S*** too.

     

    https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/airfuel_ratio_tuning_rich_vs_lean

     

     

    This is all irrelevant. You said the exhaust manifold, in particular the up pipe, would be hotter when cruising. A patently false statement that you can't back out of no matter what BS you come up with.

    19 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

     

    Yes, driving your car with a heavy foot will make the engine get hot

     

     

    Yes also

     

    Who cares

     

    Who knows who cares? If you don't care why are you here?

  6. 1 hour ago, evowrx said:

     

    Egt is very subject to timing and afr but you would know that. I might be getting confused with diesels where when you run richer they run cooler, do they work like that? Or I might have just completely misread the stuff I was reading on it which is why I said "pretty sure" but  I wasnt too bothered with saying the wrong thing when youre always there to correct everyone with your sometimes superior knowledge. Im not hot on the science I just know if you run too little timing at cruise it heats everything up. You can add timing to reduce afr without needing to change the fuel table. 

     

    A master of BS and misinformation at work right here. When you push a car hard it get's hot. Anyone who does not know that in every atom of their body should not be giving advice on cars period.

  7. 36 minutes ago, slystiguy said:

    Gut the flexi

    Heavy coat in thermal ceramic paint

    Wrap in the best highest temp wrap you can get

     

    No problems for me around 10,000kms now on this setup, it's a road car though so doesn't see too much abuse.

     

    Don't feed the troll guys. 

     

    (I know a few rally guys who don't run flexi in the headers or uppipe, works fine, dunno what loner is on, probably bath salts)

    Don't worry about what I'm on...  Worry about the guy that said the exhaust runs hotter when the car is driven gently. 

    5 hours ago, evowrx said:

     

    Pretty sure the exhaust is hotter on cruise/light load...but youre probably right.

    Really can't believe someone that gives advice to everyone that will listen... said this utter crap. 

  8. 19 minutes ago, Dairusire said:

    So, with the realisation that my front drivers seat at minimum is totally and utterly boned. I decided to replace both front seats entirely. 

     

    Now considering I am going to be doing track days, I thought it wise to get some good FIA rated seats. 

     

    I'm quite pleased at the outcome to be honest. They're very comfortable seats and they hold well. Can't post images directly so click on that imgur link. 

     

    https://imgur.com/a/QSc9p

     

    What about the seat belts? Isn't the fixed side of the buckle attached to the factory seat?

  9. 2 hours ago, evowrx said:

    You should replace the restrictive flexi with a solid section while youre at it. Best to wrap it but make sure you use heat wrap thats rated to 1100deg c or so.

     

    Worst advice ever. Without the flexi the pipe will be more prone to warping and cracking.

     

    Fabric heat wrap only lasts a short time.

     

    Leave the stock pipe and heat shields alone.

    • Like 1
  10. 9 hours ago, Batbaruman said:

    thanks mate. not trying to hijack this thread at all but its on the same topic - whats the general opinion on running r888s as dailies ( came with car) , is it dangerous/ risky on wet and offroad situations? my normal driving is mostly highway / city. weekends is rural around gravel/dodgy roads of the waitak ranges , bit of mud / stream crossings here and there. i know i overthink things but thats my daily driver tyre question anyway :)

     

     

    r888s are fine in all situations apart from when there is standing water... even then, just slow down when it's very wet and you'll be fine. They won't last long though and it's a total waste of money, especially now that the new r888s are out and much more expensive.

     

    Zentums are okay and maybe better than the average tyre of the same price... I'm not entirely convinced of that yet. I have a set on my WRX and don't feel particularly confident in them, especially in the wet... I used the same set on my Legacy for a trip to Hamilton and they felt pretty good... but the limits of the Legacy are very low compared to a 90s WRX and I still didn't like them in the wet in fast corners.

     

    Yes people, well Sam, has used them for autox and street sprints with some good results, but that just means that Sam has adapted well to the tyre and he would likely do as well with any old tyre that he was accustomed to.

    • Like 1
  11. They rate about a -5 on the bling scale though.

     

    On the flip side though, my headers are a nightmare... they are stainless aftermarket, but not a good quality stainless

    as they are slightly magnetic... I have spent so much time and money trying to connect them to the up pipe without leaking it's insane. I have

    had the up pipe cut and re welded twice and the v-band flange and clamp replaced at a cost of around $1500 all up and I still can't get them to seal after recently removing them to replace the oil sump. I hate them.

  12. 4 hours ago, evowrxwifey said:

    Nope actually some carsest's when r/f are allowed to be heavily braced against the front seat. Depends what carseat you have.

     

    There's a facebook group nz carseat discussion where they have trained carseat techs and police running the page to answer all your carseat q's.

     

    Of course!!!

    4 hours ago, G B said:

    Passenger seat is moved forward when occupied. Seat only goes in when needed and 99% of the time, wife sits in the back too.

     

    Sweet, not judging or anything... better to be safe than sorry.

  13. 1 hour ago, G B said:

    Bought one several weeks ago for when we have our 7 month old grandson to transport around http://www.babycity.co.nz/maxi-cosi-vello-65-car-seat-black.html

    Upper side of the range as far as price is concerned but you don't want to take short cuts with these. Easy to swap between the STi and the wife's Jeep Cherokee and uses ISOFIX points as well as the seat belt in the rear facing configuration. Has standard anchor mounts for when they are older and seat can face forwards.

    IMG_4488_zpsmk9hdua0.jpg

    IMG_4489_zpsgjf6s762.jpg

    He's obviously too young at the moment to utilise the drink bottle holders :laugh:

    Pretty sure there needs to be a bit of space between the child seat the front seat. Think what happens to the passenger after a frontal impact. 

    • Like 3
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