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QBALLZ

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Everything posted by QBALLZ

  1. Well I've been absent from here for awhile-my bad. But today i had a complete break from the car. Did some internsl damage at Jambo over the weekend so needed to step back and gather my thoughts hahaha
  2. I'm trying to get mine certed at the moment for the rims, suspension, W/G that we have plumbed back, wheel spacers. there seems to be a hold up at the moment with everyone busy up until around June 11.
  3. brought a new 5 point race harness, put on my rally pig stickers on-not sold on them yet, might go from white to a black sticker to stick with my red on black theme. Ordered my new air horns as the factory ones are sheeet! After 2 weeks without a horn, the old finger out the window isn\'t cutting it when i get merged in on
  4. Pulled the rear hubs to get the bearings changed after putting up with the noise for long enough I also kept having visions of them failing and my wheels burying themselves into wheel well in truly spectacular fashion. While at it I inspected the rotors for wear and all the pads as well. The drivers side made a terrible sound \'free-wheeling\' after I removed it, bearings are well past there best days. No play though, just felt like there may be some pitting on the races, possibly from the seals perishing and allowing all sorts of nasty\'s inside The passengers side had a small amount of play, and a bit of noise when \'free-wheeling\'. Looking forward to noise free motoring once again ;D
  5. nah haven\'t stripped it yet. I\'m thinking about getting it rebuilt with a straight cut gear-set. The casing is sweet. But when I do strip it i\'ll update. As for the RA box, it\'s going great at the moment. Haven\'t launched it yet but it has stood up to some VERY spirited driving up in the hills. ;D
  6. Im with them and they are all good. Had a claim when a doosh bag tried dorifting in the wet around an off camber corner and hit me. They were helpful and got me sorted pretty quick.
  7. well i never did anything but diagnosed the rear annoying sound as a wheel bearing, so will be doing both rears. Also got a dangn exhaust leak in my down pipe from a torn bracket that mounts it to the gearbox. The road trip to WGN was a goodun hahahaha
  8. I\'m running a 6puk, sprung, 2100lb pressure plate, with chro mo 5.5kg flywheel and its sweet. I have killed one 5 speed but unsure if that contributed. Flat shifting will kill syncros, and boxes if you are to abusive. Puk clutches will also wear quicker from what some guys on here have found, but I guess each to their own. For me im glad I went this route, others may not.
  9. What are some of the settings people are running for their flat shift on a G4??
  10. I\'m glad someone has asked this question as i too have done some searching but nothing that actually gives a reasonable guide on what a base set up should begin from. I\'m looking at running flatshift and launch control with my G4 also so would be interested in a base set up if someone can throw one up. ;D I\'m too scared of wrecking something and have no idea where to begin ie trim table, ign retard etc etc. I\'ve spent a bit of time tootling through the menus etc (usually until the lappy goes flat) but don\'t want just start switching things around
  11. Yeah its got a small amount of herb ;D But no not a speed cut as i\'m running a Link G4. After tightening the clamp abit more it was really good today, held 15psi clean. I also swapped out my old Blitz boost guage so i could get an accurate reading(the needle used to vibrate so bad it was hard to see the difference between .8 and 1.0!!) I\'m also going to pull the plugs and gap them down to .8mm as they are 1.1 Bosch units to see if that helps. I thought the spark might be getting blown out at high load/boost points. Kind of trial and elimination with a small amount of research thrown in for safety sakes ;D
  12. tried doing some logging to find out what is causing the misfire at WOT around 5-6krpm in 5th gear. Going to check all the hose clamps as i suspect the clamp on the turbo to y-pipe is not ideal and needs replacing, causing pressure loss under load. Boost is down slightly as well. Pulls well in all other gears but WOT in 5th at 5.5krpm misfire and wont go past it. I did think after some research the knock sensor may be going as it hasn;t been replaced ever and have heard these can cause similar symptoms???
  13. changed the gearbox and diff to a 4.444 after i blew up the 3.9. Also installed a new set of coil overs-what adifference!! Feels like a complete different car
  14. Sorry I should have mentioned that I have an aftermarket top mount.
  15. Sorry to hijack this thread but one thing I did notice with mine is the absolute mission it is to check gearbox fluid level. Not a major but when it does come time, I have to take the dam thing out. Anyone else found a way round this?
  16. Just finished putting RED back together, bit late for a test drive but will be up in a few hours for work so may go for a lap ariund the burbs before hand. Interested in how the new ratio will do with spool up on my set up.
  17. ???I never actually said what i broke, i still dont know yet. I did mention that i was \'wearing out\' 4th syncro-from too many flat shifts from 3rd to 4th :. In my particular case, this box did not like it.As far as launching the box, i did it once, felt a bit brutal so never did it again. I\'m going to see how the GC RA box goes, wont be as strong as the 6speed GDB but will definatley be better than a GDA non STI 5speed.
  18. Once you have cut back the surface/area and are happy that the finish is up to what you want, give it a final wipe off being careful not to wipe dry compund back over the surface. If you have access to a compressor use this as you wipe, blowing just ahead of your rag. Be sure to wipe all compound off before you do the final buff other wise if it gets dragged back on to the surface while doing the final buff you will get light scratching and will have to start again. Now it\'s time to get polishing, personallyi love to use a Lambs wool. The preferred polish product to use is not overly important, it\'s the technique that will make the difference. The idea of buffing is to get heat in to the clear/2k and \'reflow\' the surface to mirror finish. We are not cutting back anything but softening the surface just enough for it to become pliable, and reworkable. This where the \'oomf\' comes in, if you use a wimpy buff you will not get the heat into the surface. Again check the pad surface through out, if needed use a peice of sand paper run against the face of the wool to clear it, as done with the foam pad. Do one sweep of the panel, checking the surface at different angles/light to spot any light marks/swirling. If all is going well, do one final sweep with lightened pressure (less heat) and recheck for any imperfections etc. Wipe off any polish that has been flicked off and your nearly done. Give the beast a wash, a dry with a Shammy and your ready for a beer-or 6 8) 8) Once you have gone through the process and see the results you will appreciate your car/paint alot more. It\'s hard work but well worth the effort. If you are worried about mucking it up or don\'t have access to the tools etc, get a professional to do it. It will be worth the money and is a darn sight cheaper than a respray ;D A bit of a long speil but i thought i\'d share my knowledge on the subject and hopefully give you an insight into what it takes to do the job properly and get the well deserved results.
  19. I thoiught i would chuck a few things in here, having done a few years in the booth myself. Firstly Kero- cmon guys this isn\'t 1970, PREPSOL or Wax/Grease remover is available everywhere, and is better for your paint. Just use 2 rags, 1 wet 1 dry and it will clean your paint up like new! Repairing scratches, Chips etc can be done well, or make your car look even worse. Make sure they haven\'t gone to the metal and started to rust, if so it will need to be preppd and resprayed. If not the rust will work it\'s way under the paint and boom you got rust \'worms\' creeping through. If they are just light and gone to the primer then sweet, just grab a fine tip brush(Whitcoulls etc) and dab a few layers or your colour-lightly thinned/hardner (colour code matched of course) into the chip/scratch, wiping off excess. IF you have a base/clear finish then you will need to dab a few layers of clear over your colour-make sure the base colour is dry though. The aim with the clear is to \'fill\' the chip/scratch so that the clear is level with the finish around it, this goes for \'2pak\' finishes also. Allow to dry-if possible over night, if in a hurry a hair dryer on low, at a ditance that wont blow the clear/colour about, in intervals will be fine. After about 30 mins the clear/2pak will be be setting, once cooled down will be ready for cutting/buffing. Cutting/Buffing is actually a bit of an art. When done with care, patience, and a bit of know how, one can make even the most basic paint finish really pop! A mate of mine in WGN did this as his job at a reputable auto refinisher and was dam good at it. He has done quite a few show cars, hot rods and Daily drivers. He was uber fussy and patient. Light scratches can be cut back using a decent compound(not too abrasive) and an electric buffer. Use a decent one with a bit of \'oomf\' as it will become useful when coming to the buffing. When your cutting use a spray bottle of water through out the process, it helps keep the heat down and will help your compound go that bit further. Keep checking the pad, we used to run a peice of sand paper over the foam disc to clear any old compound and bring a new foam surface out. Pressure is key, too light and the compound wont do it\'s job, too much and you risk burning through. Keep the buff moving and work in sections, use masking tape over plastic trims, window seals etc. This way you can get right to the edge and not have to worry about tearing off trim or the buff grabbing and being torn out of your hands-it does happen, beleive me. Dont put the pad flat, use on an angle-say a section around 10 and 3 on a clock.
  20. If one can afford it or find a wrecked GDB with all the running gear then use it otherwise I would use the older GC sti boxes, especially the RA with widened 1,2,3rd gears for better load spread. This is just my opinion, but if you are brutal on any box you will kill it, alot of power or not
  21. I found it ok, but when I bought it I noticed that it was whirring in 4th. It never affected its performance, just abit annoying. Powerwise it handled the 200atwkw sweet az rolling, I have only launched it once but its been given afew redumps in the wet. I started to wear the 4th gear syncro, from changing gear to quickly. Engine braking would have tested it also, coming into corners, I do matchrev but it still felt like it was pushing the limit. For your daily driven wrx they are fine, but start driving them harder with a slight power increase and they will eventually fade. Ive gone back to a gc series RA box and diff, as I cant justify a $2500 for a 6speed plus diff,axles,hubs etc.
  22. Dropped the gearbox, and front struts, picked up the new suspension and tyres, paid for the RA gearbox and diff.
  23. Lets not shut the guy down, he might have had other cars 300kw is bugger all these days, sure it\'s quick but it aint that quick. 450kw+ is where the quick street cars are at. As foryour 300kw goal it goes beyond the motor, you need to decide how long you want the 300kw under your foot. It\'s not overly hard to make that power it\'s the reliability and useability that counts ;D
  24. well i suppose i had better update this post ;D the 5-speed has given up the ghost. I hit a RPM cut (safety mechanism set up in the LINK) and the shock has blown the gear box, i got back on the gas a bit quick and cut again and it was enough to finally shock it to death. I knew it was coming as it had been making noises for a little while in 3rd. So the 5-speeds are good but but hard driving and engine braking will slowly kill it. ;D
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