lowandy

I did this and got a quote of $800 which i stated in the first post.

Thanks for the links but they are only 16mm I had an idea i was wanting to run by. Would it be easier to buy a turbo 40mm alloy radiator and get a radiator cap/filler neck welded on for extra? Anyone know how much that would cost? Was looking at getting this one http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=606348306&permanent=0 Anyone had any past history with Redline Performance?

Im thinking that i will most likely change over the front and rear axles with the gtb diff and gearbox because the axles might not match with the rear diff being LSD. Can anyone confirm they are factory LSD?

Couldnt find a cooling section so thought id put this in the motor section. Im looking for a thick alloy radiator for EJ25 N/a 1995 legacy. Being non turbo it will need the radiator cap on the top not like the turbo ones which dont. I was quoted $800 for a 42mm thick one when most other makes are on trademe are $250 Could anyone point me in the right direction for what im looking for or one that has the same specs and will line up.

I got my D2 Adjustys, wheel spacers and standard rims certed for $480 from Neil Fraser in Birkenhead on the Shore.

Sweet as, was just wondering if i should take parts off the GTB while i have the chance but i think ill leave it with 250T axles and GTB rear diff. Im not planning to thrash it too much as i know how they respond to this = non working car haha Cheers for the replys

Ive got a 250T wagon which im going to convert to manual using my 96 GTB parts car. Would it be much of a upgrade to use the GTB rear axles, diff and anything else?

Thanks for all the info! Answered all my questions Yup its auto at the moment so will start sourcing parts asap. Cheers heaps!

Bump. Still looking for this. Would i run a non turbo flywheel or turbo flywheel if i get a turbo gearbox?

Ok so it seems that there are only turbo manual conversion available to buy, does it matter about the push vs pull and how would i get around this?

Nope it just has standard non turbo brakes on it, i quite like how the brake fill out the wheel and makes it look like it has massive brakes Im looking to upgrade to 4 pot front soon and maybe 2 pot rears if i can sort out the issue with the rears not fitting.

Thought id chuck up a few pics of my wags. Daily height

Cheers for that, i did hear something about cable clutch vs hydraulic? but i think its what you just said about pull vs push. So would it be a safer bet to get a non turbo gearbox? Im looking to rwd convert it before i put it in so i thought id get a turbo gearbox to be stronger. And if i brought a gearbox with matching diff combo, this would eliminate the ratio problem?

Ive been looking on trademe and the internet about manual conversions and 1 site i came across said that EJ gearbox will fit other EJ engines so they are all compatible. But not to sure so figured id ask on here. I came across a manual gbox for sale with the code ty52vbaaa, will this fit my 2.5ltr non turbo bg9? It says its from a wrx so would there be any difference to a non turbo gearbox apart from strength?

Well considering no one on here gave me a solid answer. Im looking at doing this and would LIKE some help from people from NZ instead of some random on other side of the world. So i would like a detailed explanation of what needs to be done to the rear to fit the 2 pots OR atleast post a link to where i can read up on it. Come one guys.

I did try searching but to find nothing, the only problem i think i would have is with having no abs that the calipers wont be compatible? Feel free to link me to a article that can solve my questions.

Im thinking about putting wrx 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears onto my bg9 legacy, which is non turbo and no abs. I have found packages on trademe with front and rear calipers with rotors for cheap. Any idea if this would work? Or what modifications are needed?

Ok thanks, so i went to pickapart today and picked one up from a bg twin turbo auto but after dropping it out, it had markings on it with 4.111. ??? But i did buy it. If i do fit it im guessing it will blow out my transmission (from what ive heard). Can i take out the gears and put into my standard diff now?

Im looking to find a rear lsd diff to put into my 1995 250t legacy automatic. Im pretty sure my old 1994 gt wagon had a very tight rear diff (my guess was lsd) as the rear wheels would skip when doing tight circles (might be binding diff?) My questions are: 1) What is my diff ratio at the moment? 2) What rear lsd diffs could fit into my car with matching ratios? Cheers

Well i can say that my hose clamp method fail cert, so i went to Scarles Performance and brought D2 hose securers that come in the coilover kits.

So i thought id change my mounting setup before cert this thursday and ill show you my before and after setup Before with cable ties After with hose clamps Definitely looks and feels alot safer than before and hopefully passes cert.

This is the idea i was thinking about doing, but i dont really have time. http://nzhondas.com/handling/91461-coilover-brake-brackets-how.html

Yea they are cable tied at the moment, but i dont think they will pass cert as they could snap and send brake hose onto something sharp etc.

Hey guys, I just installed coilovers and one of the criteria for cert is "brake hoses must be secured" and my coilovers didnt come with brake hose holders. So i was wondering how you guys have done this? ( if you have )

Apart from what is said above by Sultan, i heard they set it to the hardest setting and test for flexing in other suspension components?