Deforester

Hi folks, I tried searching for this but found nothing here, Ive had a hunt around google and found conflicting opinions there :-[. I could really use your vast collective knowledge on this one! Its a bit long-winded but here goes: Im currently replacing a wheel bearing and front outer cv joint on my sf5 foz. It\'s a 97 jap import automatic t/tb and has an abs ring mounted on the outside of the hub carrier, right behind the disc rotor. However the cv joint supplied has it\'s own abs ring mounted at the spline end. I\'ve read that they can be used in place of a non abs ring cv joint, and Ive also read that the ring can be removed from the cv itself by using a hammer and chisel to split the ring, thus detaching it from the cv. Is it necessary to remove it at all? My concern is that the ring may displace the cv joint and prevent it from bolting up all the way home. Also could it come in contact with the bearing seal or foul up against the inside of the hub carrier? Ive found that once I tighten the axle nut to the spec 140 ft lb, the hub no longer turns freely (with transmission in neutral) and I\'m reluctant to bolt everything up only to pull it all apart again. Any help would be greatly appreciated! -Dan-

Where can I get myself one of those higrolic jakes? From a hadwhere stur maybe?

Feed it some rice

Remove line 3 from t-fitting on line 1/2, then block t-fitting to close the line. You could use an off-cut of vacuum hose with a bung/goof plug in one end and fit other end to the T. Just make sure the bung is tight and secure, if it pops out the wastegate actuator will not open properly causing the turbo to free boost, which will damage the turbo and/or engine.

Thanx, think I'll get some myself

Did you use soapy water to check for leaks? I had a BG5 Legacy which used to cut randomly but only on really hot days. Sadly I sold the car before I figured out what the problem was. Seems like you've replaced almost everything in search of the problem

Looks much better Where did you get them?

You're right sir, purge control solenoid hose runs from the manifold, NOT the throttle body. I stand corrected

I think that hose leads to the purge solenoid. When the throttle opens it creates a vacuum which opens the solenoid, I think it sucks fuel vapour from a canister somewhere allowing it to be burnt off. It has something to do with emission control. I'm no expert though so don't take my word for it!

Did you (or your mate) do anything else to the car at the time, or did he just spray the carb cleaner in and leave it at that? Also have you checked to see if the ecu throws an error code?

Allah akbar!

When I replaced a clutch in my old BG5 Legacy I had the same problem, sure enough the friction plate was out by only a few millimeters, but was enough to stop the box from sliding home. Good place to start.

Seconded, get it handling real nice, then go in search of greater power

Damn shame, good looking Blitzen. Hope they put this right for you.

The squirrel mincer! I remember this one now, based on the R1 city car. Look what Prodrive can do with a granny wagon