titian

Dont Drop it! :D :D :D ;D

Failing temp sensor. ;)

Very possible the injector/ As correct combustion can only be achieved with correct fuel atomisation and vaporization prior to ignition during VE. De capped injector cars are real bad on economy For exactly this reason. Scan it too! best way 8)

if you can swap the intake manifold. Engine will fit. If it is later version Loom/throttle body/ must be changed onto the "new" intake manifold ICV also requires sorting out. Easy. Done this a few times now. Nice easy job. :D

More info here. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,40258.0.html

Just with respect to the "fit" of the K&N panel filter. Be sure that the top and bottom halves of the "box" are squeezing the rubber seal correctly. I have found that the OEM retaining "nuts"for re-securing the top on early models restricts how close each half closes on the other. This leads to an unseen gap for dust to get around. I found it after a rally. Obvious signs of dust getting past. I lightly sprayed the inside top cover with WD40 so there was evidence of where it was getting in. Removed and shortened up the retaining nuts and now dust stays on the correct side! Im not sure about the more modern "clip" type air box. Probably worth a check though. Clean with any degreaser then wash out and AIR dry. ONLY use air cleaner oil to respray "lightly" then re air dry for 24 hours to minimise any residue draw off. Simple/cheap/The best! ;D ;D Never seen dust south of the K&N but often see a light coat south of the paper OR dry type filters. Like women really Wet is best!! ;D ;D ;D

Fantastic value actually... Have had one for over 300,000km Perfect! Never use dry! :( or over oiled! Certainly good in the dust (rally) no need to buy one every rally simply clean and re oil. Cheap over time although expensive to start. Keep your eye out around wreckers/pick a part. only $15 from there..Clean m out an away ya go! All my vehicles have K&N (6) :) Better than any paper filter ;D Ive had them turn inside out/bust apart if they get wet too! :o

The set i got blew to bits on the road car. ;D Twice!...Seems that the heat was the issue. Now fitted to the rally car With a 65mm exhaust from the turbo to the exit. Sounds Awesome at 4000 rpm and above. Can also be driven quietly enough to not attract attention on tour. Almost too crackly for a wof. But without any muffling thats ok. ;) Does not sound like a turbo subaru though. More like a NA car now. Terrific responce from the gas pedal using these headers.Lowers the lag factor quite well. Now to make up a set for the road car that will be ok when white hot at full boost! ;D. And not burst like a balloon. >!

car over 100K?......Up the weight to 10/40 ;) I would..Others will say No F***in way! What ever!

with a diamond point chisel. No problem at all.... You will need a replacement speedo cable bit though............This one is now F***ed as they say :D

Is ths any good? Does anyone know/have experience? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/auction-646774671.htm Seems like a reasonable price At last! :D

One of the reasons cops stop wrx, sti,and other hi spec turbo cars is actually to check if it has been stolen too. Esp during evening dark hours prior to midnight. 8) And a Thief just looks like the owner as well so its hard to judge. 8) 8) If you have not done anything wrong,the car is higher tha100mm of the deck.does not sound like a cackling noise, No alcohol or other substace smells, you will be on your way without delay. ;) However ...play up? or give cheek ,swear etc....Well those boys in blue just love that game! Play it at your own peril. : :-[ :\'(

TRUE and some don\'t do the water pump or the idlers or the camseals or the tensioner. Make sure you get a "Proper" job. :) Does sound clutch related though. Best thing to do? Get it diagnosed by a Subaru mechanic/Wingers....Then get a Quote for work and the bits n pieces. Negotiate from there with the chosen mechanic. Bring the info back here an someone may even offer the labour and know how for a reasonable reimbursement of some sort in all probability.

Them two bearings in the idlers on these 3.0 motors should be replaced approx every 80thou Km. (Advice from one that knows!) Apparently IF one seizes it WILL strip out the thread in the ali bracket it they are both mounted too! :\'( :\'( They are also std 6309 something or other bearings available fro saeco or other bearing supplier. I need to do mine! :-[ I do not know exactly what they are yet. However im keen to find out as mine has done 120thou now. :-\

reverse flare is the issue It does engage but there is no power at the wheels even by raising the rpm considerably Since this post i have discussed with Auto trans repair man. He said the reverse clutch pack is worn out. Ya! Another gearbox to replace :) Same TYPE/Model NOT the same vehicle.

As it concerns an automatic and its the "same" vehicle This gearbox has virtually no reverse gear?. :\'( Does anyone have an answer or is it remove and replace gearbox time? It drives well in all four forward gears. No codes have come up when you do the check. Help? :\'(

Nothing to be gained by removing it. Nothing lost by leaving it. Oil cools the engine more than the coolant. Believe it or not. The subaru std cooler allows both coolant and the oil to "balance" and provides excellent cooling characteristics for a 4 cyl turbo engine as a whole unit. Removing it will increase operating temp of the engine due to lost cooling. Fitting an air type?:- This will allow for both cooler and hotter oil temps depending on loading/speeds (hotter temps at prolonged idle) (temp differentials will be bigger than with the OEM one)

IT is NOT the hose shown that has the non return valve inside. It is the first rubber pipe from the brake booster that has it.......On the other end of the steel pipe to that shown, Located on the other side (drivers side) of the car. ALL subarus have it there! ;D ;D And YES... Make sure its there! ESP turbo cars!

Its real handy when it is minus 20 to 30 something outside. Nice warm car to get into after breakfast,still locked in the street 5 levels below in the street somewhere............Sometimes its best to listen to the cranking from the window.........A second attempt is often required even with a 4 second crank time.............Can be hard on the starter too.............(A Swedish experience.) Has its uses! ;D ;D

Motul 75W 300V range. ..........Tis EXPENSIVE!.......Or Royal Purple...VERY Expensive too! But the best sometimes is!

+1 ;D

Yes.. ;D A stuffed cap will do it too. Two seals in the rad cap. Both must be in good condition. plus the non return valve makes 3.

do a pressure check on that refill/overflow hose/pipe. leak is there somewhere. ??? 2-3 psi will do it. sucking air back into system somewhere. This is the only area it can. all others system pipework is under operating pressure of around 0.9 to 1.1 bar and you will see a leak somewhere.......this kind of leak will usually drain the reserve tank not cause it to overfill.

The pipe between header and overflow tank has a hole in it or is partially blocked. Or the header tank cap is old and not sealing correctly. Pin hole in the rubber pipe is the usual reason

special legalities with hydraulic handbrake setups. Cert plate,sticker on window,Wheel chocks requred Great for the rally car/drift/race etc ;). Not so for ya roady though.