Subirex Automotive

To make it more interesting for everyone to get their heads around, we used the factory auto loom, ECU and the BCM We pulled out the AT control unit and did some magic wiring

Not my car, but we have successfully converted a facelift BP5 auto to a manual 6-speed! CANBUS still working, ready for a tune

lol

As per Vishal, its not for sale sorry

it all depends on whats causing the problem. slipping clutch doesn't always mean that the clutch packs are gone. low oil pressure causes slippage. can be dirty oil, faulty/sticky solenoid or even worn out seals inside the gearbox. these days its cheaper to get a second-hand trans than overhauling one.

had this issue couple years back when i was at the dealership. stereo doesn't come with security code from factory but the owners can choose to put a security code as some of these are security enabled stereos. there is a way to bypass those using select monitor with a special code. i did this once only and im pretty sure i have the code written somewhere. long shot but if you can make your way to the shop, i can check if my scanner can crack that code. i might also have a stereo that you might be able to try

$200 for the whole set only to cs members

im wrecking a gt legacy if you need the brakes, i have the whole set atm. for brake pads i would suggest getting EBC Yellow or Blue Stuff. they are really good for track use.

sure just pop in and see me ill quickly check it for you. cheers

@adamp. first of all welcome to the forum. you can get a lot of useful info about your car from here. members are great with lots and lots of knowledge. now if you need your car scanned than just pop in and see me, we dont charge scan fee for club sub members. as far as you are an active member here in the forum, you will get all the benefits from us as the rest of the members get. Cheers. AJAY

i tend to stay away from engine flush. as @pedro stated if the engine has sludge (which we cant visually see form just opening the filler cap), putting flush in makes it break down and go down the sump and all over in the engine. just by draining the oil only some portion of that sludge will drain, with high possibility of that sludge getting stuck and blocking the strainer, making the risk of your engine going bang sooner than expected

well this sucks. pre-facelift legacies have the added extra loom for 4 pin brake light switch. facelifts dont. but can be done with the right pinouts from BCM and ECU.

will be worth looking at these link. its a known problem on the newer generation engines. burning 1litre every 2000 km will be like 6.5 litres of refill before every service. so who will pay for that 6.5 litres (if its consuming that much). Dealer or the customer? https://www.torquenews.com/1084/subaru-settles-oil-consumption-lawsuit https://www.cars.com/articles/2011-15-subaru-oil-consumption-update-1420683845519/ And this TSB http://99pdfs.com/view/364272

its normally customer preference when it comes to oil filters in our shop. we use Valvoline oil filters (unless customer requests for genuine). but as for ATF, Air and Cabin, we only use genuine. ATF filters are external on your model, located behind the L/H fender. access it by removing the battery.

the only difference between genuine Subaru and aftermarket ones are the release bearings. aftermarket release bearing inner sleeve that slides on the gearbox shaft has a plastic housing whereas genuine ones are full metal housing. thats what makes me lean more towards genuine. RRP genuine is around $725.

no need to change sump, newer models have been fitted with twin scroll sumps. from memory i think its v11 onwards that have come with twin scroll sumps from factory.

lol i always commute to Wanganui. joys of having in-laws there.

contact Leon he can custom make these. http://www.znoelli.co.nz/

Cool no worries mate. Keen to see how your one goes on the dyno tomorrow

Hi Guys, as you are aware Subirex Automotive is one of the sponsors for the up coming Mega Meet in April. We will now be running a special promo exclusive only to ClubSub members for April only. We are offering a 50% discount from retail on labour for the Mega Meet. This will start from 1st April until the end of the month. I will personally be working on the members cars to make sure its up to standards Appointments necessary as we have to maintain the correct workflow in the shop. so flick me an email or call to make a booking.

@TNHSTI yes it can be. normally these codes appear when the vvt pulley stops working properly and cam sensors pick these up. this can be caused by bad oil, blockage in the vvt line or filter. if the harness is filled with oil, than this code does come on as the resistance in the wires varies on temperature.

depends on model to model. some are a prick to get to and some are easy. located at the rear of the heads. left ones are easy to check as the plugs can be easily accessed. drivers side depends if its turbo or na. hardest ones i found are BP, BL legacies. the rest are simple.

yes @Invisible i did sort your one out. plus your whole loom had to be replaced. so the story here is the rear cam sensors start leaking internally and that oil travels inside the loom. how common? VERY. any Subaru with these rear cam sensors are prone to fail and leak internally. the most common one is the Impreza and Forrester, since these models have metal casing they get loose and oil travels inside to the loom. FIX. if in budget and no codes are thrown, simply pull out the sensors, thoroughly clean metal casing and make sure there is no oil residue. apply three bond sealer around the surface where the metal casing and plastic parts mates. wait for dry and install back. if the oil hasn't penetrated through harness enough than cut the harness plug and join wires using bullet connectors, this will ensure oil falls off (if it decides to leak again) through the connectors before it travels through. if not in budget and you have a deep pocket, than go ahead and replace the sensors. when the oil travels through the harness, the wires get hard and starts breaking internally. on operating temperature it can cause a lot of performance issues. best way to find this is to unplug the harness and check for any oil residue. if the is than change the harness and use bullet connectors on the cam sensors to prevent oil travel. ive seen a lot of these and 8 out of 10 of these vehicle had engine blow by. is the blow by cause of this? I cant be 100% sure.

i got mine from Aussie, i think they were around 200 for the rear bracket and shoes. from memory the shoes were like 14mm thick (i will confirm this when i pull my rear rotors, brakes need done soon). i would probably get the local brake shop to mould a thicker shoes on your current linning.