zeroyon223

Cheers, I google searched along the lines of 'is partsouq safe' and this thread is on the first page of results. Great timing with the other thread as well!

Thread revival, but how has the recent experience with partsouq been? Is it still good? Also, has anyone used the jp-carparts.com site? I'm after some RHD specific parts (window switch trim) for our S-GT.

That's what I'm thinking (yay, hindsight), taking it to a tuner here. I've used WRC developments before and he was good, but a bit of a drive. I think the etuning is a bit of a hit and miss, especially if you're not supplementing it with a wideband and using factory afr sensors.

Yep that's the one. I'll put up a log once I get my tactrix cable back off my mate. You've got a 3.0r too? Who did your tune? Nothing like this is happening to yours?

Has anyone here had their 3.0r tuned and still experiencing pinging and inconsistancy? I had mine (05 3.0r spec b manual) e-tuned by xrt a couple of months back, was good for a while, now it's pinging on application of the throttle when you change gears and get back on the gas, it must pull timing, which makes it feel flat, and then it pulls away semi normal again. It feels quite flat until the cams go in to higher lift too (flat until 4000rpm). Especially if you're driving enthusiastically. This is on 98 too. Both afr sensors, plugs, both fuel filters and one avcs sensor done just been done too. Anybody experienced this? Or know a good tuner in the bop? Dtech?

Oh right, is yours 6sp? Have you come close to 300 flywheel hp? For the big airbox in front of the throttle body I'm fabbing a chamber out of 6" dairy tube, with 3" inside it, that has a few large holes bored in the tube so it behaves a bit like the stock item, but should be more durable. Basically a kakimoto replica. Also doing the intake arm as well, I see raptor does a cold air intake that they claim makes a lot more power? I didn't think subarus had much of a problem with the stock airbox, although the feed in to it could be improved a bit? I have noticed the power delay correlates to the temperature of the car, when it's properly warmed up it feels noticeably better... But that could just be me lol.

Well to follow up on this thread a bit, So I ended up replacing plugs, and the fuel filter. Noticeable improvment. Plugs looked pretty tired, and the fuel filter did too. But from what I was told, only the outer filter (white plastic part that clips in to the basket) was available. There was a bunch of black crap on the filter sock itself, but that part is not available, so I cleaned it as best as I could. That may be the next avenue. Also another thing I noticed was a hairline crack on the inlet chamber, just before the throttle body, so it would have been sucking unmetered air in. Tried plastic glue, but may get the crack plastic welded at some point. If you have a bp shape 3.0, I'd check for this crack, seems to be a common problem according to the aussie forums.

Hi everyone, I have just purchased a 05 3.0r manual wagon, and I have a few questions, mainly related to a slight hesitation it has mainly when you go wide open on the throttle. It's using the 5w30 factory spec oil and has full service history (engine oil anyway). I understand the avcs can be sensitive to this, so I was thinking it may be the fuel filter and plugs or the fly by wire throttle mapping. Has anyone here replaced the in tank filter? Was it a mission and are they typically dirty (car done 93,000)? Also the eco button, what is it's function, does it just dumb down the throttle below a certain travel of the pedal? Has anyone gotten rid of the factory chamber above the throttle body for a stainless tank, done headers, exhaust and remap too? Were the results worth it? I do pipe fab as a job so it'd be a cool project to build them. Thanks

Been reading a bit more on it, found this: http://www.benjohnsonphotography.com/Cars/Other/2010-Subaru-Legacy-GT-Photos/n-xHF4q/ And this, but usa dyno plots seem to read different to nz ones: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2298793 Quite interesting, the engine mounts appear to bolt to the bellhousing and the front of the motor. Surely the intercooler piping is longer, but wouldn\'t that be a small price to pay compared to long manifold runnner lengths? Edit: woah that v10 is hot, little civic radiator supposed to do the job haha

Has anyone here played with the low mounted turbos on the late legacy and new wrx? Or retrofitted it to a gc8 or similar? Or just made a low mount manifold? I understand the new legacys\' turbo is somewhat integrated in to the sump and the motor is mounted differently, auxilary oil pump etc etc. I\'m interested in the response gains in it as well as possible torque and power?

Suspension tech charged me $250 + gst per corner to rebuild and revalve my 40mm bilsteins 3 months ago, so like evowrx said, probably other way round. Maybe because they revalved mine as well its more expensive than just a rebuild? Anyways I have no complaints with the service.

He said the o2 was way out, just goes crazy. Had it tuned a bit over a month ago, I will ring them, just wondering if it was a common issue after remap? Yes stock ecu, they\'re the only place in nz afaik who are licensed to tune with ecutek, and that v5/6 stock ecu can only be tuned via ecutek. It just has simple mods, syms equal headers, avo inlet pipe, vf28 at 1.2bar, downpipe and exhaust... Usual bolt ons. Otherwise I\'m really happy with the tune.

Hi all, Well my v5 type R has got a random missfire issue. Since having the car ecutek tuned a month ago, you can apply mid to full throttle at lower just off boost rpm\'s and it just misses quite harshly once, and doesn\'t do it for a while after that, it does it totally randomly. It had the maf replaced a day before remap with a new unit, and I\'ve only ever run a paper air filter. I do have a big AVO silicon one piece inlet though, and the mapper did say the o2 sensor has a mind of it\'s own on cruise, lean one minute, then just dumping fuel in- could this be the culprit? Doesn\'t throw a code or have any logged. What is the limit of the stock maf? It\'s making 350bhp on wrc developments dyno at 1.2 bar, I have no further power making plans, as we\'re looking at trading for a GR sti end of the year. Thanks in advance

That looks pretty good, link to more photos? Any shots from the back of the car?

What computer? V5/6 stock ecu are done by wrc developments in napier, they\'re the only ecutek tuners in nz, I recommend them, and I\'ve used stm who were good and infomotive (yikes) etc before.

Who did the build and fab work?

This is the one I think mate: http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic/ae86/t/6171/postdays=0/postorder=asc/start=0 Droolworthy. It\'s not far off the cars in the TRD bible. I still would like to do a honda f20c swap in a levin notch, I did a blacktop 20v build back in the day, somewhat more rewarding to drive than turbo 4wd, albeit slower haha. There was a UK guy on a forum who did a real nice F20C swap, was on jenvey itb\'s, real tasty fab work too. Can\'t find the thread, otherwise would post here.

10mm pump is all we\'ve ever used, some say on factory clearances a 12mm pump is unessessary and can heat or aerate the oil. I check the torque of the screws on the back cover, and dot punch the screws slightly to help prevent them coming loose. And $377 plus for a 10mm pump? Yikes.

Cool build, subscribed! Close deck ej22 is from legacy usa turbo? JB weld close deck? Wow any photos? Isn\'t devcon a lot stronger than JB? Pistons looks nice, mahle do a 2618 and 4032 lower expansion, are the 4032 not strong enough for this build?

Does it go very well? Or no test drives yet? looks pretty cool. The new shape japanese market sti, will that have the fa20 or the ej20 as the american sti seems to have the ej25 still?

The CL RC6 pads are renowned for being noisy, but didn\'t expect them to squeal like a truck!. I run the RC6 front and rear on my v5 type R, was using znoelli discs before and the brakes were reasonably quiet, then I changed to DBA t3 same as yours and they just turned super noisy- borderline embarrassing to drive around town. So maybe the metallurgy is different between rotors? Great stopping power though ;D Also fitted process west tmic today- who here runs one with the stock gc8 carbon strut brace??

All sti imprezas from v9 onwards are 5x114.3 in every market, forester sti etc are still 5x100. Biggest advantage is wheel selection, and when racing the bolt in 5x114.3 bearings are a lot stronger, last longer and you don\'t get pad knockback with the brembos like on the sti v7/8.

The european spec cars are pretty close to the jdm cars I\'ve found when using that site, especially for the gc8\'s (my v5 type R is a 2.5rs in usa, you can mostly use the usa bugeye wrx part numbers for engine parts) Then I copy and paste part numbers from there in to the parts order/search section on subarugenuineparts.com, see if the number lines up with the usa numbers and buy from there. Bit of a plug sorry, but their prices whip nz dealer prices, even at trade.

Advan ad08\'s, I run 215/45/17 though, paid $270 per tyre each off memory. Think that compound has been superceeded by the ad08r, if it\'s better than the ad08 it will be an awesome tyre. Real stiff sidewall for a road tyre, turns in nice, heaps of grip. Which is what you want if you\'re driving hard lol. Gotten 12,000km out of them with 2.5mm left, bit of camber all round, but more critically no toe.

Had many of these in various different cars, ae82, ae92 , ae85 with blacktop. Good little motors. Blacktop is nice with vvt, had one in my ae85, with open throttle, headers and g4 made 110kw atw, so not huge. But sounded real hot and loved to rev! 50mm trumpets worked well for us, uni filter socks rape power by the way. Things to look out for- the heads up top fill with crap quite badly on the 20v if you dont change the oil enough (more so than other cars), vvt pulley can get noisy but thats ok. 5 speed box is stronger than 6 speed. Stick with blacktop, silvertops are yawnworthy, or get a type R dc2 instead.