Rosssub

Normally only fitted to manual cars. To stop the cam belt jumping in a rear ender.

In here under MY99ecu, version 5/6 WRX and STI are identical: http://www.brdevelopments.com/archive.html They use the same MAP signal ECU pin as the BE/BH. It's the white 3 pin loom plug attached to the front of the BBOD.

A lot of workshops use a smoke test just as you've described. Another couple of options below: [quote name='Rosssub said: To check for boost leaks. Either spray ether (starter fluid) or anything highly flammable around any possible vac/boost leak spots. If any fluid gets sucked in the idle rpm will change straight away. Or block the intake off at the AFM end: img]https://s25.postimg.org/or4nozjqn/Fuel_pump_ECU_fix_014.jpg[/img] Then use an air compressor to pump 10-15 psi into the intake manifold through a vac hose. The system should hold pressure, any air/boost leaks will hiss and be obvious. If nothing shows up, then as b01z mentioned it could be a dirty solenoid. Most often inside the BBOD, here's a write up on cleaning it out: http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/11043-code-66-and-boost-issueshow-to-clean-them-out/ Then also clean out the primary boost solenoid inside the F/L guard, if it's blocked you'll get waste gate spring pressure at 7.5psi:

Be worth checking out your AVCS oil feeds/solenoids too, could be a cam stuck advanced: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?22885-New-AVCS-Issue-(V7-on)-oil-feed

Can see in the chart above the V5/6 and V7 STI head cobustion chambers are the same CC, so would be fine. Would be right on 8:1cr though. The HG change at V6 to V7 is because of the piston change. The earlier pistons protrude above the deck at TDC, so the 1.37mm gasket sets the quench gap at between 0.8-1.0mm. Which is the recommended gap for resisting det. BE/BH and V7 pistons sit almost flush with the deck at TDC. So the HG drop to 0.8mm keeps the quench gap at 0.8mm.The wrong squish/quench gap will make any motor prone to knock/det.

I'm using the 1.37mm oem, they were about 1.385 before fitting. What does the 1.0 HG set your squish/quench gap at?

Yip. The 1.37mm is for the V3/4/5/6 WRX/STI. Then the V7 drops down to 0.8mm cause the piston to deck clearances change.

Yip. Few numbers and thicknesses on this chart:

Sweet, more likely a boost leak or too much boost. What psi are you running? To check for boost leaks. Either spray ether (starter fluid) or anything highly flammable around any possible vac/boost leak spots. If any fluid gets sucked in the idle rpm will change straight away. Or block the intake off at the AFM end, then pump 10-15 psi into the intake manifold through a vac hose. The system should hold pressure perfectly. Any air/boost leaks will hiss and be obvious.

Yip could be a boost leak somewhere, or a faulty AFM. How much boost are you running?

Nice, thought that was the case but wasn't certain. Normally the worst case scenario is just needing to shave the small tabs off the male/injector side of the plugs.

Did you do the conversion wiring yourself? To use a forester solenoid/MAP/pressure change solenoid, you would need to modify/rewire the original BBOD loom, or the pressure change solenoid cant be plugged in. [quote name='Guitar_Guy said: Feeling a little hi-jacked here but ya know... I'll move this to another thread tonight.

Sweet. So on the drivers strut tower should be: Boost solenoid. MAP sensor. Atmospheric pressure change solenoid. Are all 3 plugged in and plumbed up properly?

45 covers the MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure change solenoid. Are you still using the BBOD?

Nice. The Valley you're referring to will be the MAP sensor air passage so can't be blocked off. As long as it's not leaking to atmosphere.

Sweet, filter's already been removed. Did you read through the second sticky and look for oil in the loom plugs?

First two sticky's in this section cover it.

You can just tighten the throttle cable, so the throttle plate sits slightly open to hold idle. But then the ECU can't adjust for cold idle/warm idle.

Yeah you'll need to change to the later Rev D crank timing gear, has more teeth than the older one. Your ECU won't run the earlier V3 IACV or TPS. So you'll need to fit your original throttle body onto the new manifold. But will need to drill a hole for the Rev D idle air port.

Welcome to CS, yes the Rev D ECU is tunable. Any phase 2 engine would have been an easier swap, using your original intake manifold/injectors/throttle body etc. What are you planning to do for idle control?

Yes there is, vertical and horizontal adjustment on each HL (8mm spanner/socket). Horizontal adjuster is on the radiator side of each HL. The vertical (8mm) adjuster is on the electronic leveller motor itself, unplug the motors while adjusting them.

Diff oil change covered on post #2 in here: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?48920-Diff-Removal-CV-Boot-Replacement-Diff-Oil-Change-How-To Then same deal with the GB oil. Drain through the drain plug in the front/bottom of the GB (19mm spanner/socket IIRC), centre of this pic: Then fill 3.5L through the GB dipstick hole:

3.5L GB 0.8L Diff

This pulled up a mates drive today, couldn't help myself:

Always stored until the ECU is reset/cleared.