Rosssub

A light smear of grease or antifreeze on the splines will stop the replacements seizing again.

Just seized up. Have you tried a really big hammer with a block of wood on the end of the axle? Front hub removal covered in here: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?44019-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-Change Tie rod end off. Lower balljoint free. Axle removed from GB end. Lower balljoint back on. Smack end of axle with wood/hammer.

No worries man, but yeah looks like a headache for minimal gains. Be better to change to a complete EJ20K V3/4 STI engine/ECU and re-pin or re-loom for probably less effort, better gains and a matching CR. Or like you say hold off and go the whole hog, V7 STI engine/ECU/loom/cluster. It's just jumping in at the deep end if you haven't done much engine/ECU wiring. Then there's the cost on top.

Koom's post from the above link:

Koom's done it, good info post #5 in here: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?43789-ECU-Repin-Swap&highlight=ej20h Correct on the higher CR, 9.0:1 vs 8.0:1. You could lower the CR by fitting thicker HG, but that will mess up the quench gap (squish) and make it even more prone to DET:

Found some old pic's, so thought I'd add rear differential fluid replacement into this thread. With the car jacked up on axle stands, preferably level for better draining and a more accurate fill. Here you'll see the lower drain plug and the upper fill (level) plug in the rear diff cover: Using a 1/2 inch drive power bar crack both plugs loose. Then slide a tray/container underneath and drain the oil. I removed the upper fill plug first to help the old oil dump out quicker, hoping to help flush any grit out. Having the diff fluid warmed from driving will also help: First time changing the diff oil the plugs were super tight. Ended up using a floor jack to help crack them loose: Then clean the plugs up. It will either have an alloy washer or silicone sealant depending on vehicle. I had the silicone type so put a smear of gasket silicone on the plug threads before reinstalling. OEM spec sealant is THREE BOND 1105 (P/N 004403010) or equivalent. Also slightly different torque settings for the two plug types: Silicone sealed bung: 49 Nm (36.2 ft-lb) Alloy washer bung 34 Nm (25.3 ft-lb) Refit the drain plug, then top up 0.8L of your chosen diff oil. I used a Valvoline 85W/90 performance gear oil. OEM oil specs can be seen on page #2659 in this manual: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?39909-Workshop-manual-BE-BH-2003MY-Covers-TT-4442-pages-by-Fuji-Heavy-Industries Or here's Swindog's sticky thread on suitable oils: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?14056-Suitable-Oils I used a big syringe to fill the oil last time round. Have used a length of hose with a funnel fitted in the past, filling from behind the car. Also read of members removing a rubber bung in the boot floor to put the filling hose through. Top up the fluid until it reaches the filler plug. Then reinstall the upper plug, give everything a quick wipe and lower the car.

Maybe something random like this: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?20079-Attn-ALL-OWNERS-OF-CARS-THAT-HAVE-AVCS

What fault codes coming up? http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ReadingECUCodes

Have you got a spare machined flywheel ready to go?

You had a good read through this? http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42216-Heads

Pull the fork boot back and look in with a torch, might be able to see what's wrong.

Use a centre punch to put a good dent in the middle of the bolt head. Then drill it with a 5mm, then 12mm drill bit until the bolt head comes off. Remove the cylinder head and the bolt shaft will probably come out by hand.

BH5B. [quote name='McMatty said: Cheers Rosssub, final thing is, does your car feel better to drive after you've single t'd it? Definitely. Most noticeable for me in around town driving, passing and tight cornering. Even with a well sorted VOD and zerosports sequential controller the VOD could still catch me at the worst of times. Also has a lot more potential now with any aftermarket ECU fitted, plus: Easier to work on, maintain and modify. Less problematic, easier to diagnose. More parts availiable, OEM and aftermarket. Tidier engine bay.

Twinscroll for the win, but it will come down to price and availability of parts. Here's a good thread covering the different VF turbos: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?43742-VF-Turbos-what-you-need-to-know-in-laymans-terms

Kamineko did one: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?45788-Clutch-change-pictorial&highlight=clutch+change Edit: Moved and stickied.

3L rocker cover before: After:

Start with new plugs, no leads to worry about with COP. Also try double priming the FP in the morning (ign on/off/on/start) and see if it makes any difference.

Made 160atw with a cheap MBC. Post #74 in here: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40590-Rosssub-s-GTB/page8

Only because of the way I went about it, parts used etc. Can be done very cheap and easy, especially if you use your original engine. Single turbo exhaust manifold/uppipe - $50-$100 VF single scroll turbo - $150-$300 V5/6 WRX A7/A8 ECU - $50-$75 Y-pipe for TT TMIC - $50 Make new DP to suit, or: Single turbo GB crossmember - $50 Single scroll DP - $50-$100 Or add $1000-$1500 and fit a complete second hand version 5/6 STI engine and a J2 ECU ($125-$150). Or a new V7 STI shortblock, V5/6 STI heads, J2 ECU.

Excellent communication until you pay, then no communication at all until the parts arrive one month later. When the over priced parts did arrive they clearly should of gone in the skip, rather than the rust painted over then sold on. Asked for a refund and have been ignored since.

Did you unplug, disconnect or adjust anything while doing the oil change?

Can you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition on?

Few pics in here: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40590-Rosssub-s-GTB/page10

JDM GDA: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41940-BH5B-TT-Intake-Manifold-stripped-Compared-to-V6-STI/page2

Here's some dyno figures comparing the two pumps, plus the Deatchworks DW200 and a few OEM Subaru pumps. Part one, compares Genuine aftermarket to cheap knockoffs (incl Walbro 255lph): http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/1404-fuel-pump-shootout/ Part two, compares a few aftermarket pumps against eachother (incl AEM/DW200/DW300): http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/1405-fuel-pump-shootout-part-2/ Deatchworks DW200 (3 year warranty): http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/fuel-system/fuel-pumps/deatschwerks/dw200-500hp-intank-pump-subaru.html Walbro 255L: http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/walbro-fuel-pumps/walbro-500hp-intank-pump.html