jost

Do you have a pic of the damage?

I was just wondering if anyone had has previous experience with swapping a different series primary turbo onto a BE/BH legacy, I have one with a blown primary and have a pile of BG primarys here (VF18, VF20) just wondering if the ecu would notice any difference? It seems to me that it shouldn\'t make any difference other than saving me some $$$ with not having to buy a turbo.

I\'d say failing wheel bearing or if fitted the VDC could be playing up.

would work out cheaper finding a wreckers with a near new crashed one and buying the seats, Expect to pay $1000+ per seat to get it done properly using good quality materials.

New door panel unfortunately, the foam under the outer covering has crumbled and the covering stretched.

You can use a wrx or forester ecu but requires changing plugs and splicing the looms together.

I had the same issue with my old ace, i just pulled the master cylinder off and went looking at bnt for a suitable larger replacement, fixed it perfectly, the standard cylinder just can\'t move enough fluid to supply the larger wheel cylinders. Can\'t remember what the one i got was off, i think it may have been a mazda one, had to bend one of the lines to get it to fit but worked otherwise.

Find a vacuum hose that enters by the throttle body and spray down it into the manifold, being a dbw car you need 2 people, one to spray the cleaner and one to hold the accelerator down a little so it doesn\'t stall.

I\'m currently in the process of doing the exact same thing, EJ15 with forged bottom end and a bp twin scroll turbo, if you can do everything yourself it is manageable but if it\'s something you have not done before it just won\'t work. You will most likely end up spending lots of money and then end up selling the car and the parts for less than what the car is currently worth.

Beofre you commit to buying new in NZ get the part number and check www.partsouq.com It\'s where i get all my genuine parts at significantly less than trade price here. Just out of interest if you check it let me know what the price comes back as, it will be in USD and add about $25 for freight (will take less than 1 week).

Front mount with the new high tech wireless pipe system ;D

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.Xej208+timing+belt&_nkw=ej208+timing+belt&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Just get a kit off ebay. Cheap and easy, No need to use genuine parts, aftermarket manufacturers are the ones that make the original belts for subaru.

Yes no difference in screen trim between models

Too much nolothane transfers all road noise and vibration through the car, The best option is to check what is worn and replace with new rubber. Generally new sway bar mounts and end links makes a decent difference. I can source genuine at pretty good (better than NZ trade) prices if required.

Go to a panel beater supply shop, They sell either a rotary wheel that fits in a drill to remove adhesive or an aerosol that removes it, either one will work, they just vary in price a bit depending on brands/supplier.

Where in NZ are you?

Double check the timing, if the exhaust cams are out by a tooth it wont trigger a CEL as there are no sensors on those cams. Then i\'d suspect water temp sensor next.

No point with wreckers rotors, just go to BNT or Partmaster and get new ones, Around $50 each.

Depends on the exact style, there are a few different ones, some are interchangeable some are not, it may just take a bit of messing around.

By the time you take into account the cost to do a manual swap plus a single turbo conversion it would be much cheaper to sell your car and buy one that someone has already done. If you are paying for a manual swap plus a single turbo conversion and a FMIC then you can easily say goodbye to $5k

get hold of a couple of scrap bits of alloy and bend them to hold the clock and screw to the front where the factory clock mounts, then a bit of silicone to stop the clock moving up or down and it will stay where it\'s supposed to.

Only difference is manual/auto use different RH Rear axle. Otherwise Impreza/Legacy all the same.

They wear out and have to work harder to try to attempt to hold regulator pressure, A new pump, filter, plugs, good quality oil, new oil filter, Air filter, knock sensor and O2 sensor (possibly AFM too) will change the way the car feels and improve reliability. Also check coolant and would be worthwhile doing a flush with new cap and genuine thermostat.

That\'s a really common issue with the E-Tunes, I hear people saying they have a E-Tune and it\'s quicker than a GTB and other subarus but what it actually means is Economy Tune. Designed to run on higher octane fuel in japan. The differences are not really that obvious until you start tearing one apart beside a GTB and see that almost everything is different, Heads, intake, exhaust ports, and more.

I\'d be cautious with pulling the cats out, have a friend who works in the offices of the NZTA and he says the legislation requring all cars fitted with cats factory to be tested at every WOF and at random roadside tests will be through my mid next year, It\'s also worth checking how your car is currently running, it may seem fine but i have found a few that were under or over fuelling on one cylinder, got injectors cleaned and flow tested/matched and a new AFM, O2 sensor and AFM and they ran better with more pickup and less chance of random suicide.