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Dairusire

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Posts posted by Dairusire

  1. 11 minutes ago, boon said:

    Believe it or not, Subaru built your car with a wideband, narrowband, oil pressure, oil temp (I think?) sensor and wired them all into your factory ECU.

     

    As above, gauges are eye candy at best. Why bother?

     

    You can't use CANBUS gauges because you don't have a CANBUS.


    Narrowband for sure on all models. Wideband only on newer generation and some legacys? I think? Don't quote me. 

    Oil pressure yes, but it's a switch sensor, not a pressure sensor. So it'll tell you 'yes' there's pressure but what that pressure is, it will not tell you. Again, referencing earlier models. Oil temp at least in the GC, GDs there is not. There might be in later models, but again. I'm pretty well shoehorned into earlier models. 

     

    As for CANBUS, like I was talking about in reference to aftermarket ECU's eg Link and the like, they come with CANBUS (most do). That's what I was referencing where you can use CANBUS gauges or a Dash cluster, like a haltech IC7 or whatever the link one is etc.
    It's how I'm running the Link CANBUS wideband and soon to be Haltech EGT sensors and maybe a dash if I'm feeling spicy (I probably won't they're horribly expensive). 

     

    8 minutes ago, Bugeye01WRX said:

     

    Ahh right! What does it cost to have a setup of Canbus gauges and aftermarket ECU roughly?

     

    The answer is yes, that piece of string is long. 
    What I'm eluding to here is if you want them all, fine do it right. Otherwise the best options? Just spend the money elsewhere. 

     

    Great tyres, lighter wheels and better suspension with good brake pads can be absolutely transformative.

    Or you could do nothing? Save the money? 
    I kind of wish someone told me that when I started this whole thing with my car.  


    End of the day, your car. Your choice. Your money. 
    If you're happy with what you've done, who am I to tell you otherwise. 
     

    • Like 1
  2. 20 minutes ago, Bugeye01WRX said:

     

    Awesome thanks for that!

     

    Oh I didn't know that about the Oil Pressure gauge. I always thought it was there so if you lost pressure suddenly you would know instantly and be able to pull over and prevent catastrophic engine failure.

     

    So are you saying that when really going hard, if the oil gets TOO hot and becomes too thin then you can lose pressure that way and that is what it is mostly for?

     

    What about EGT are they any good or necessary?

     

    I'm going to stop you here just for this not so quick explanation. It's not to be rude but to really advise you. 

    Gauges and sensors are typically a complete waste of time, across the board, if not being used in real time by the ECU. The ECU is doing operations at literally the rate of tens of thousands per second, if not millions. EGTs, oil pressure, oil temp, boost pressure, Wideband, IAT, fuel pressure, ethanol content, fuel temp blah blah I can go on. In short there is absolutely zero chance you will catch something even 1/10th as fast as the ECU can and will. 


    If you want to get gauges and sensors and really have it matter? Heres my advice to you. 
    Do it once, do it properly.
    Get a motorsports ECU (link, haltech, motec, syvecs, holley. Your preference), get all the sensors you want, have them wired into the ECU properly, and if you want them displayed get some CANBUS gauges or get a CANBUS dash cluster which is programable to have everything. 

    I say this because it is super easy to spend $1000 on gauges that realistically, won't save your car, engine and end of the day, your money. 

    The above is horribly expensive, but sensors save even more expensive components.

     

    NOW! To your questions. 


    To be honest, if you've lost oil pressure completely and notice it on the gauge it is already too late 99.99% of the time. Even if it hasn't knocked yet there will be major scoring to bearings, cams and other pieces in the engine. So yeah it's more so just noticing when driving around if it's somewhere it's not meant to be. Not enough to trigger engine safety protections but enough that I notice and then check my ECU logs. 

    in the case of oil temp, Yeah in my example yes that is predominantly what it's for at least for me, but once again, ECU logging and engine safeties get to that well before I do. Also normally when you've got oil that hot and you're loosing oil pressure you should drop the oil and change it. Overheating oil can and will damage the oil in ways that can then do potential damage to your engine. 

     

     

    Though, if you want them for the look, and less about the sensors themselves. 
    Knock yourself out. They're cool as sh!t and I've love mine even though they realistically don't do crap for me haha

    • Like 2
  3. 5 minutes ago, Bugeye01WRX said:

     

    Cheers that clears that up perfectly :).

     

    What would you say the essential gauges are? For me its definitely Boost & Oil Pressure and I really like Oil Temp so I know when I can get on it.

     

    Any other gauges that you would consider very important to have?

    imho, just oil pressure and oil temp. 
    Once again, they best serve when actually integrated into your cars ECU, as an ECU will respond instantly where-as you might not even notice. 

    Though, Oil temp and oil pressure are in some examples good on track for purposes of not pushing it too far. 
    For example, I have oil temp and pressure in my RA, because with the temp it's a lot slower changes, easier to notice over time. Pressure is less about seeing it go to zero because if it goes to zero the damage is done. It's more so about knowing when your oil is too hot and you're loosing pressure because of that, tells you when to button off and give the car a few good low rpm cool down laps at a good cruising speed. 

    Boost is another case of really only useful when troubleshooting an issue. Aka, hitting boost cut or the car has gotten sluggish or it's picked up a LOT more power and you need to figure out why. 

    Though, it can be useful and for me it has proven so when I've looked at the boost gauge and realised there was 30psi of boost being fed into my stock EJ207. 
    It was going REEEEEEALLY good there.

  4. My answer is that it's really only good for looks if it's not wired into the ECU and actually utilised. 

    Like, sure you could use it on the road and be able to tell if you're running at 1.0 lambda when cruising but in reality, when you're actually driving it you will not or at least should not be looking at the gauge. 

    You also, unless you're logging it, won't be able to tell exactly where in the RPM range at what throttle load the cars at so it's basically a turkey shoot. 

  5. I don't know why on earth you guys are suggesting 98? He's clearly said 100 octane is available and it's cheaper..... 
    Do you guys read?

    So yes, 100 octane man. I can also attest that in a twin turbo legacy, just going from 98 to 100 octane got rid of a slight detonation problem I was having. 

     

    Definitely not 95. 

    • Like 2
    • Haha 2
  6. Rev D is tunable, Revs A/B/C arent. Pretty sure the RevD switch over was early 2001.
     
    Your Fuji Heavy Industry tag in the engine way will say BH5* where * is A,B,C or D
    Thaaaats not true anymore.

    The Rev A-D are all tunable now. An Lal at custom culture and tuning tunes them. There's also the group out of the UK AFAIK that sell off the shelf tunes and equipment for em.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

    • Like 2
  7. 1 hour ago, Loren said:

     

    What don't you like about them? 

     

    I had one of their 3 inch downpipes once... what annoyed the hell out of me was that it wasn't designed to fit with the existing oem mid pipe... they made it about an inch too short and put the flange on a different angle.

    Infuriating.

     

    It was also was made from mild steel which was covered in surface rust in a short period of time.

     

    What you stated but also their divorced downpipe works about as well as two people who actually had a REALLY bad divorce. 
    It's a poorly cut basically gas axed hole in the pipe... 

    The rust is a big one but also the fact the exhaust doesn't actually come finished, and the welds overall are trash in comparison to the near HKS level of pricing you pay for it. 

  8. I dunno. If I were in your shoes, unless its hitting the ground or sounds bad etc I probably wouldn't change? 

    I do not rate the rage exhaust systems tbh. For what you pay and what you get and need to do it's a bit 'meh'. 

    At this point it's a case of 'Do as you want' but there very likely will be some power loss. 

  9. Just now, Subru said:

    Ok. Should definitely be more knock resistant due to equal cylinder Temps etc. Mainly want to see the spool difference so I don't need to go too hard on it to find out. I'm very interested to see what difference it makes. 

    Just so we're clear, I'm NOT certain you will see spool differences when still using a single scroll turbo. When using a twinscroll turbo that's actually made for it, yeah you would. 

  10. 4 minutes ago, Subru said:

    I'm interested to compare equal length vs unequal on stock turbo with no other changes so would it be safe driving it for a few days without a tune touch up?

     

    Then I can do turbo etc just before the tune.

    Theoretically there shouldn't be any issue as your total flow is still limited by the factory turbo. if anything the engine should run a little healthier as they've got individual runners a lot further from the port. 

     

    I wouldn't worry about driving it before the tune, just don't be a savage on it incase it does introduce a significant change to your engine. 

  11. 3 minutes ago, Subru said:

    Okay. I'll pm you.

     

    Another option would be to get a twin scroll exhaust housing but I talked to turbo care who said there are no good ones out there that are any good.

     

    Yeah, you could reach out to GCG turbo in AUS, as they could make one, but you could say goodbye to north of 3k

     

    Otherwise, you could find a blown legacy twinscroll turbo, send it to murch and be like "I want power plz" and he'll build you a new turbo. 

    • Haha 1
  12. 43 minutes ago, Subru said:

    I found an auction on trademe for the following gear: Equal length twin scroll headers, uppipe, oil sump, pickup and dipstick. Only costed me $300 so its relatively low risk if I don't like it.

     

    What's the best way to go about modifying uppile to suit my single scroll turbo?

     

    I'm willing to bet you got Legacy ones. Which aren't bad. 

    I can sell you a twinscroll to singlescroll up-pipe if you'd like. That's $150 but you'll spend 5x as much getting one made or twisted.

    • Like 1
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