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GorGasmSpecB

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Everything posted by GorGasmSpecB

  1. Exhaust for a bit of noise, brake pad upgrade, rear sway bar. The only other thing I would look at is a tune. No point spending much more than that I reckon otherwise you would have been better off with the turbo version.
  2. If you can do all the fab work yourself then yeah it might be fine. Paying someone to do it would definitely not be worth it as the gains are minimal at best. Not sure about the hesitation... Mine was a little lazy at the bottom end due to throttle mappings but otherwise fine.
  3. I would also say there was no difference in engine and gearbox.
  4. Check the ECV and IACV operation.
  5. You could potentially pickup a 997 911 for the same money, won't be as balls to the wall fast as a GTR but will still handle like a dream.
  6. Could be a leak in the system. My BP5 had a split o-ring in the feed to the top of the pump and it would moan and groan about it.
  7. The BH5 manual would be fine I guess. Just go into it knowing it's an old car, will feel old, won't be that fast, reliable or efficient but might be a little bit of fun. I have a 200km BE5D and it goes OK
  8. Yeah, buy a BP5 if you can afford a little more.
  9. You get what you pay for...
  10. That sounds like the VTC solenoids being jammed up due to the filters in them getting clogged in the mechanism. The cam timing gets stuck at a random value.
  11. You could try to fit 235/40/18's on, but might get rubbing. I would suggest staying with a 225/40 and buying decent rubber. For example the factory 215/45 bridge stone would be better than a lot of random brand 225/40s.
  12. 18x7.5 to 18x8.5 +45 offset with 225/40/18s will do the job. You could do the similar with 19's as well. Grab some hawk hps and replace the brake fluid.
  13. Save $10k, start on the project and then realize you need another $10k.
  14. I had one stuck nut as well. I just undid the whole bolt on mine, the stud will eventually wind out. You could try copious amounts of anti seize or a blow torch.
  15. More of a sports sedan than a cruiser.
  16. I have gone off Nitto after trying both Invo and Neo gens. Had a better experience with RE001s. My colleague got a quote for 911 turbo spec Hankook RS3s and they were very reasonably priced (from mega tyre). I am going to look at bringing in some Bridgestone S04s or Pilot super sports for my new car.
  17. Hyper: YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08R $339 GOODYEAR EAGLE F1 DIRECTIONAL 5 (D) $342 Megatyre: Hankook RS3 ??? Hankook V12 Evo Stick with the big names and pay a little extra. AD08R for a daily tyre or RS3s for a dry weather ultra performance. The V12 Evos are consistently well rated if you can get a set.
  18. Sounds like one is the blue leather trim and one is cloth trim?
  19. I think at this time the BL/BP is a far better car and totally worth the difference in price. The engine and drivetrain(auto) is far superior Handling is improved Quality and age of design Reliability has improved The only good point I can think of for the BE/BH is the lols top end power once they have been tickled a bit. The BL/BP can be tuned for great success though.
  20. They are cheap because there is a lot of them and they are not really a good car.
  21. Pitstop Grey Lynn? The guys there generally do whatever you want. I got my Audi done there and it was too loud, took it back and got a centre muffler also.
  22. Yeah I got Sobanoodles set. I'm not convinced the front sway bar upgrade is a good upgrade. My front end is sketchy as all hell. It could be a combo of tyre, suspension and sway bars though. I need to get softer springs, and will try a different tyre brand next time as well.
  23. Hey, will post a pic in the next little while. Still rocking the 12kg springs, still hard as ****. My car isn't that low.
  24. No. I had guard rub in the rear on +42 running 225/40/18. It would catch on the front of the rear guard where the plastic part meets the metal.
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