tweedo

Hey @sjase, Not sure if you've sorted this out yet but if not my advice would be to get a quote from them for sure. Alan won't actually be doing the work as he's on the Auto Electrical side of things but their mechanics are still good and they will use genuine parts too. But yeah, definitely get a quote. I got quite severely shafted by them when they did my cambelt. I didn't even consider getting a quote as they had always done my work. Even though the bill included a set of rear pads and 1 rear wheel bearing it came to $2400. That one hurt haha Anyway, good luck!

Approach for this now? Do I need to get the scaling rectified?

Hey all, Just following up on this now that it's been fixed. I can confirm that the issue has been resolved with the changing of the fuel pump and filter. Fuel usage back to where it should be, have gained back around 1.5L/100km. Car has much more off boost power now, as well as pulling nicely through the range and is a pleasure to drive again so I'm a happy man. The only thing that still isn't right is the stored fuel trim readings, mostly at idle where it's sitting at -9.70%. I'm really not sure why either when the mechanic tells me the car is as healthy as a button. Only thing I can think of would be the new MAF is causing it. Would incorrect MAF scaling do this? I think Dave from Cryotune had to adjust this when he tuned my car as I remember him saying the trims were a little higher than he would like. Any input would be great, Cheers!

That's just the parts mate, $600ish+ including labour they reckon. I nearly fell over when they said $140+ for the fuel filter but I figured that's just what they're worth.

I think they said it is flowing fine once it gets to that but it's the point before boost should be coming on that's the issue. It's down on power before boost comes on but no real noticable stumbling then seems to be as good as gold after that. Fuel economy has gone well down lately though. As for what pump they are putting in, I'm not 100% on that. I know these guys are pretty by the book and I just can't see them doing something like that but maybe it'll pay for me to check. I would imagine genuine at the price I've been quoted though! ($390ish+gst for filter and pump).

Hey all, Just a follow up on this in case anyone runs into similar issues in the future. I have had the car in at the mechanic and they found a couple of things, related and unrelated. They found that there was a pin hole sized hole in the downpipe but confirmed to me that this would be causing no issues at all as the rear o2 sensor seems to have been overridden. Would this be the case seeing it is a catless downpipe with aftermarket tune? The main issue that they believe to be causing the problems though, is the fuel pump. When the tested it they found it to have low fuel flow particularly in the 33% range, I believe. Their explanation was that I am effectively having to use more throttle input to get the same result. Hence why it is rolling on boost sooner than usual, but in actual fact would be normal for the produced throttle input... if that makes any sense at all. The car is booked in tomorrow to have the work done, new fuel pump and filter. So fingers crossed they are right!

Afternoon all, Happy Bathurst day to yas! Looks like she's going to be a ripper eh! Just a wee follow up on this issue. All suspect vacuum lines and inlet pipe replaced still to no avail. Economy is still going down and boost is still playing up at lower RPM and load (spooling up far too quickly low down). Although after changing said parts the fuel trims now show it's pulling fuel across the board with the most major at idle (-8.9% at idle and -1 to -3% through the rest). I will post this screenshot up if needed. I've done so much reading now I'm confused as to what it points to. So if anyone had any thoughts on what it may be that'd be great otherwise I'll let the professionals deal with as my time is short and my patience is running thin. Cheers!

2 it is then, was so close to doing away with the 2nd one too haha Cheers @Andy_Mac

That'd be awesome, cheers Andy.

Ok, cool. Is this like this from factory? Or do you think someone has put the 2nd one in? I'm interested to know what would happen if the 2nd one was removed though... boost not quite so high? Less chance of spikes?

Basic question then as I've sorted most of it... Do I need both restrictor pills?

Hey all, Kobe Motorsport gear has arrived and all looks pretty cool eh. I've got the inlet along with the matching post MAF pipe and went for one of their Dual Port BOVs too, cause why not. Old, ripped inlet is out along with the suspect vacuum line, which, part of it does have a wee hole in it after all so time to replace that too. Another question for you all on the restrictor pill locations though... I was under the impression there was only the one in the pipe running from the turbo into the T but I see there is also one in the short pipe on the other side of that T that runs to the actuator. If it's there I assume it's necessary but can someone please confirm that for me. Any tips and tricks on relocating these pills into new line would be great too. Also, is there a specific type of vacuum line I need to be using when replacing these too? Thanks as always, Graham

Awesome, cheers Andy. Where did you happen to source this from? A quick Google search provides nothing locally.

Cheers for the reply @Andy_Mac. At least I now know that it is doable without tearing everything out! I went ahead and removed the I/C this arvo as suggested, not sure if it gets me any further ahead or not haha. Will have to purchase an array of long nose pliers to try and get in there. I did notice with the intercooler off now that the turbo inlet pipe may be starting the fray and perish too so may be worth doing it all at the same time (making the vacuum line much easier too). There was also quite a bit of grimey oil residue around the turbo end of the inlet too, not sure where exactly it is coming from though. Anything to look out for/worry about? Anyway, could somebody be so kind to point me in the direction of a suitable replacement, OEM or aftermarket please. As long as it was a direct fit. Cheers!

Hey all, I thought I would try once more to get a solution to doing this before I just go ahead and book it in somewhere to be done. I've been wanting to change this vacuum line as I'm sure that's where the issue stems from but can't for the life of me figure out how to go about it.... it is so tight in there especially the turbo end of the line it seems like so much has to come out just to get at it which, for me, seems like quite a daunting task. So, if any of the Gen 4 owners or gurus out there could give me any guidance at all it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Sweet as, I'll have a look into them... anyone had any dealings with the Trademe ones? There's a Canterbury based outfit that sells them on there. I'm looking at going the whole hog, right from the clay to the wax. Well, what I would consider to be the whole hog! I watched the Meguiars UK YouTube series called Detailing 101 which was such a good series for a noob like me. Still a little unsure on what colour pad to use for the different stages though... what did you use on your car @Batbaruman? Apparently that Ultimate Compound is the ducks nuts too 👍

I figure I may as well bump this up instead of starting a new thread that will pretty much cover the same things so here goes... I'm about to partake in a full exterior detail of my wagon and have been gathering supplies before getting started. I have everything I need apart from the pads needed for the Dual Action polisher. I have bought some from SCA but quickly realised they won't cut the mustard and I will be needing a whole lot more anyway. Where do people recommend getting these from? Also, do people recommend 180mm or 150mm pads? The backing pad will take either. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Hey guys, Just a wee follow up on this issue. I had the car in at Subaru the other day for a recall and got them to check over it while it was there. They discovered that the vacuum line to the BCS was cracking so I will go ahead and replace this. Would someone be so kind to point me in the right direction for doing this... where to get vac line from, easiest method of removal and replacement etc. Thinking I will replace the MAF sensor at the same time. I got a price for one from Subaru the other day... lucky I wasn't sitting down or I would've fallen off my chair. $387+gst! So, advice on the best place to source these would be great too. Cheers, Graham.

Evening Folks, Finally got around to logging some data. Here go the results. If any of the smart cookies out there want to have a look and potentially give me some insight into what may be going that would be awesome. Thanks to @Andy_Mac for your help as per usual 👍 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iD42yVoBhM2F4D43Iei13572tx5iddGW/view?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ndKBlh2ct5kn43js4lqULKZFRyEOsC6R/view?usp=drivesdk

Hey Andy, Nothing out of the ordinary of late. Only thing I have done is after the fact which was to clean the EBCS and the MAF. I will try and get these logged tomorrow after work and report back. Cheers!

Thanks to you both for the speedy replies guys. I haven't checked out the inlet as of yet but will try and do that this coming weekend. Am I needing to take the intercooler off to get a good look at that, do you think? Even with that bit of knock showing, my IAM has never dropped below 1.000 though. The Fuel Correction side of things hasn't really strayed outside of +/-2% in any of the ranges either. There was a +5 in the 1st and +4 in the 2nd range at different times over the last couple of weeks but it has since gone back to being relatively normal I would say so no real signs of a leak anywhere.

Hey all, I've searched far and wide to find an answer for this with no luck so here goes. Over the last few weeks my Legacy, ('04 Twinscroll Manual) has been showing an increase in boost on the gauge when usually it would be showing little to none. At a guess it is reading 3-5psi higher than usual. This is happening under very low throttle input (15-20%) and very little load. It seems to be normal at higher throttle inputs, although, I have been rather nervous to give it the jandal so am unsure exactly how it's performing at full throttle. I have been taking the odd Learning View reading over the time of noticing it and have also noticed that there is some higher knock readings (-2.10/2.45) creeping in too, mostly in the 1.15-1.49 g/rev ranges and at 2700-4299 RPM. I have the ability to log to try and figure out what may be going on but am unsure of what exactly I would need to be logging. If someone could point me in the right direction for a start, that would be much appreciated. Cheers!

Hey all, I'm in the process of trying to get steering wheel controls working with an aftermarket head unit in my 2004 Legacy. It just so happens that mum and dads Legacy has the exact setup that I want so I flogged the wheel out of it and checked that cruise control and the audio controls would work before buying the gear myself for the retrofit. Cruise control works an absolute treat so will definitely be doing that either way but I just cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get the audio controls working. I've done so much research which led me to a purple/white and an orange/white wire under the steering column to connect to the plug that came with my head unit. Neither of those wires have been run in my car but the wires that are opposite them in the plug leading from the steering wheel are there so I have tapped into them with no luck though. They are a green/red and a white wire which I have led to input 1 and the ground wire of the steering remote cable for the headunit. Ok, time to stop rambling now. Hopefully that makes sense to someone out there who can point me in the right direction. As always, any help would be greatly appreciated.

For those of you who haven't seen it yet... You're welcome.

Thread reboot time! This stuff proving to be up to it? I opted for some RAT Mat from an outfit in Geraldine thinking it was reasonably priced, looked pretty decent stuff and is also only a day courier away (to Dunedin)... that was a week and a half ago and still no sign of it. Finally managed to get an answer out of them today as to what the go is saying it'll be 3 weeks away and I can either wait or get a refund. Has anyone here actually used the stuff? I really just want to know if it'll be worth the wait more than anything or do I go the Trademe route? Just can't justify the price of Dynamat, I'm afraid. Any input, as always, is appreciated.