GTJamie

Yes, I did a lot of labour for them and paid them a bit of cash as we had agreed, the owner of the 20K I was buying and the WRX I was working on, was friends with my flatmates son. My flatmate let them into my house, to get my car key, where they trashed my car and stole not only the parts I had brought off them for cash, but also the spare parts I got with my legacy when I brought it. They stole a turbo, two toolboxes, clothes, my passport, and an orange airflow metre from my bedroom because my flatmate gave them both my room key and car key. They also attempted car conversion by trying to sell my poor legacy to one of my mates who works at a local wrecker. Project V3BG is going to be on the backburner for at least the next 8 weeks due to the financial restraints that come along with paying for an engine and not receiving it. Hopefully the disputes tribunal goes well. however, if anybody knows of any V3/V4 20k or 20R engines laying dormant, please let me know because I'm desperate to get this done.

Okay so s**t has really hit the fan. Split the STI box off the 20K, put the clutch into my "mates" WRX, slapped it back together for him. Then less than a day later they smash up my BG 😢 and are withholding the EJ20K that I own 63% of. They also stole all of my spare parts and stole parts directly out of my house, room and engine bay. Stolen items include: 2x orange AFM's, 2 toolboxes and a socket set of mine, one toolbox that belongs to my mate, VF13, VF19 & VF23 (I paid cash for the VF23) http://s32.photobucket.com/user/Jamie_BiNg_Mutler/library/BG5 Damage

So my EJ20K is in my mates BG5 with his brand new Excedy HD clutch, which we are putting into his new GC8. Then I'll be left with my motor teetering in the BG, we are gonna reverse the GC8 up to the front of the BG and drop the 20K into the boot of the GC8, then go and drop the 20K off at my house to go into my BG, then the next job will be pulling out my 20R, doing a few wiring tricks and finding the last few bits I need, put my 20R clutch on the 20K and then I'll be away laughing. Too bad we have to split 3 boxes, lift 2 engines in our backyards!

Apparently my pictures are too large. I'll make a Dropbox or something so you guys can check it out.

So yesterday I went to go and view what I thought was the V2 EJ20G, to find that it is actually a V3 EJ20K. So I asked how much for the 20K, and my mate said he'd take 4-500 for it. Then after much deliberation I asked how much for the VF23, headers, up pipe, loom, ECU.. So he says I can have all that for an extra $150. So I decided to give him 500 for the engine and 150 for the turbo and all that extra gear. Now I've spend $650 on the full V3 setup and my GT-B cost me $270 in the end. I'm excited that I'll be able to build a STi GT-B for under $1000. I won't post here again until the 20K is in the BG. Next time I post an update it will most likely be running! Pics to follow!

Thanks, evowrx. All going well then this should make for an easy build. This will be my first hybrid build so it will be interesting to see what state this wagon ends up in.

Thanks Rosssub, after some more thinking I've decided to use the CDB 20G and EJ20R heads and run sequential twin turbo as the CR will be identical like you said (20G and 20R both being 46cc) with copper head gaskets, which should be a good combo. the only thing I'm concerned about is the crank sensor trigger being different on the 20G block than what the 20R ECU will expect. Being a phase 1 block I'm sure it will either be plug'n'play or I'll be able to retrofit the 20R sensor/trigger combo to the 20G. Hopefully its this simple..

So do you think I should keep it simple and go single turbo?

G'day and thanks for your time, I have a 97' BG5B factory manual GT-B with a EJ20R that has bent valves as a result of one of the plastic cam gears exploding (and smashing the cambelt cover into 1000 pieces) and have decided to buy a V2 STi Closed Deck EJ20G-DW5HJ, and install it but retain the sequential TT system instead of going single turbo. I've always had legacy's and love the drivability of the TT. I'm thinking about doing the exhaust and swapping to VF33 & VF32 turbos of a BE5D. Just wondering If anybody would like to chime in with any tips or advice?

Sorry, The Positive Terminal Had Some Plastic Over It Case Closed, Thanks Guys

It WAS going. after trying a few times i have got it started, went and got petrol, now im back as square 1. when it wants to go, everything is fine. but when it doesn\'t want to go, i get these symptoms: Clicking from what sounds like a relay, clicking about once a second (it just clicks in the same pattern as the "door open but key in ignition" dinging sound) when that clicking from what i think is a relay starts happening, the doors open lights on dash are very dim and the ACC and ON positions have no affect on anything, however, my stereo flashes like its having a seisure. about to pull stereo out and have a look at wiring, but i dont think thats the problem. ALSO: everything is stock standard. the only "mods" are STi genome axleback exhaust, aftermarket head unit installed by previous owner, and the sub installed by me. Thanks, GTJamie

Nope. Just a boost gauge. otherwise its stock standard.

Hey Guys, I Have a 1998 Legacy B4 RSK (automatic), the stereo has been playing up and coming on at night, and giving me flat batterys, i tidied up some of the previous owners wiring, but it still comes on and it turns my sub on too. after replacing the battery it killed, it wouldnt start, so i jumpstarted it, and it started, then i drove it for about half an hour, turned it off, and it wouldnt turn back on, so i put the battery on the charger over night and it still wont start. now when i try and start it, the fuel pump primes, the stereo comes on in the ACC position but not in the ON position, and there are no lights coming up on the dash EXCEPT the usual self check lights (ABS, POWER mode, Battery Light, CEL) since its not running. but the red dials are not showing up. if anyone has any ideas please let me know, i\'d be very thankful! Thanks, GTJamie

If you fill up, make sure to round up your dollar amount to the nearest four cents, it rounds down