creecha

I figured a slightly dirty shot might be appropriate Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As seen in NYC on a trip last year. It’s pretty bad but almost good because of that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wait my addition subtraction module is impaired. I was there at 11:42. Regardless, it was close, I almost turned around and went back but a couple cars went up the hill. I’m keen to meet more of the welly club members now I’m back in town. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You were literally 8 minutes before me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both taken today just for tag. Was a lovely blat over the hill for the first shot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The little fulla is back to life. V7 sti semi closed block and V4 sti ra head.

So it seems the struts are black. And there is a knock from the left rear, would this indicate that its not worth re-building them? What would be the best way to proceed? take the whole car to Al or does anyone recommend someone else? Put the car on axle stands and pull them all out myself? I'm obviously trying to keep costs down as much as possible as I guess we all try to do so anything to help this I'll do. But in saying that I want the end result to be something good. I'll do as evowrx said and get a rear bar, maybe from him unless someone has a spare laying around they want to flick off cheap. Thanks everyone for your input so far. I'm fresh back into the country and enjoying being able to be able to get into some projects. I've got a husky dirt bike in pieces too, but the car takes priority for now.

I'll check in the morning if they are red (like my face for not knowing already). Cheers guys! ps evowrx I'm halfway through reading your build thread, it's great reading

Again thanks for the quick reply So you are suggesting getting OEM and adding a rear sway bar? I don't want to lower it really. I'll grab some spring compressors from some generic autoparts store.

Thanks for the quick reply. I just emailed them.

Hey all, this is my first post since the last one. As per usual I'm needing help which is why I usually end up here I need to replace the shocks in my '98 sti type r which is exciting but I'm really not looking to have to get a cert for anything but I'm unsure as to what limits I need to adhere to. -Is the only way to get OEMish stuff? I'd really like to upgrade the sloppy s*#t I have now, no idea what it has now but looks standard. -If I get coilovers will I need to get a cert or is it only if the are adjustable(can you get non adjustable ones)? -What options would anyone recommend for an upgrade without needing a cert? I'll (attempt to) install them myself unless someone convince me otherwise. Any help would be much appreciated.

yeah I know, and if I was in wellington I'm sure he'd take care of me but alas I'm not. I'm pretty sure I've kept within his running it in guidelines as well. I'll talk to him tomorrow anyways.

Apparently the block was replaced with a reconditioned one appx 100,000km ago. I just had the block stripped and honed, new bearings and rings, valve grind on a new second hand head, new waterpump and cambelt kits, new clutch and spigot bearing. Alistair said it has 1.5thou ovality in the bores. The errors the diagnostic check said were 22-Knock Sensor and 21-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, it ordered them like that 22 then 21.

Hey guys, a shot in the dark until I get time to get it checked. Scenario is this. Got my top end rebuilt by macbilt in Wellington(yes will call him on monday). I'm now in Auckland, did the drive up here no problems, taking it easy and running the engine in nicely. Its now up to 800kms. A couple of days the check engine light comes on when the engine is cold and I'm idling, it happens as the idle drops from just over 1000rpm to about 6 or 700rpm. As I drive off it goes off. I had put 95 in for maybe half a tank as I was nowhere near 98 which is scaring me as well. It's done this a few times now but everything sounds and runs normal.....until tonight. So had just come off the motorway and I see a little bit of smoke coming out and the oil light comes when i pull up to the lights and engine starts to idle. I pull into where I was going which was very close by and shut her down and open the bonnet to see where its coming from. Its coming from down low on the left looking at the engine. I check the oil and levels seem normal. Nothing had been dripping previously but now after leaving it for a few hours there were a couple of drips under the car. I eventually had to go home so again checked the oil and its still good so I drove home and of course get every f*#%INg light. As I pull up of course the oil light comes on as I stop at the light, and a small amount of smoke comes from the engine again, if i rev the car below the idle the light goes off. I make it home ok, there is a little bit of a burnt oil smell but the car was behaving normal. The oil light came on when left to idle but as soon as a small amount more revs are given it goes off. As well as this the check engine light came on but went off too. Anyways its a stab in the dark but this is the story so far. My non mechanic brain thought it could be something to do with the oil pump not getting enough pressure but to be honest I don't know ****. If you feel like speculating please feel free, if you know any good not too expensive shops or just cool mechanics in Auckland who might be able to check it out, plug in a laptop and see whats been going on by all means message me. Cheers Nick

Thanks guys. Al is coming to pick her up bring her back to life