scooby-wrx

I paid 4400 for a full setup (without turbo) including entire loom 67 000km's and 1200 for the spare sitting in my garage (no turbo either) unsure of km's, so I think 2k or 2.5k would be fair.

Finally managed to get to the bottom of my CEL (Camshaft position sensor) which has been popping up since the engine transplant under high boost. Turned out to be dodgy turbo timer wiring from my good old mechanic who has struck yet again...! Prick! I'm still finding issues over a year and a half later... Found a vacuum hose left unplumbed, unused mounting brackets he left on the engine, stripped bolts, power steering pipes crammed into the engine bay to suit V7 conversion! All of this on top of the rebuilt gearbox which lasted less than 1000 km's and the axle nut which was left off entirely when car was sent to be dyno'd, it was driven without the nut and then dyno'd before tuner noticed the sound of the axle shredding the hub to pieces...! The thing that annoys me is I was more than prepared to pay for a top job and I did, but sadly the workmanship is just pathetic especially considering what it cost! Bloody useless in my opinion! Choose your mechanic (in Tauranga) carefully... Gave them a clean and a good spirited drive which was followed by a visit from a Highway patrol officer after someone called *555 on me...!

Pretty cheap on TM http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/auction-843846392.htm

Thanks for your input, appreciate it. That's pretty much what I wanted to hear. Cheers

A few different angles of my Type R from yesterday.

I realise that loner, but expected the grease to have burnt off fairly quickly... Boon thanks for responding, appreciate it. I think its best to replace the clutch too, but seems like a waste of an almost brand new Exedy... Doh... almost tempted to reuse it, but will take it past a mechanic prior to putting it back in just for piece of mind. Learnt the hard way!

Cheers guys, wasn't too sure of the mirror's at first but loving them now. Timmah you're quite right, I use flickr which is a great host!

Hey guys, My clutch started slipping about a month ago (don't drive the car much) so finally decided to take a look. Slipping occurred intermittently - usually when hot after a long or hard drive. Only slipped when flooring it. I tried bleeding the clutch and adding a clutch fluid heat shield none of which worked so decided to pull the box out to have a look. First thing I noticed was there seemed to be grease contamination on the pressure plate, clutch plate and release bearing. This is my mistake as I applied a smear of grease to the input shaft / release bearing when I fitted the new gearbox... Is it possible that the grease is causing the clutch to slip? The clutch is an Heavy Duty Exedy unit with less than 3 000 km's of use. Notice the grease on the inside of the release bearing... A thin layer of grease on the inside of the pressure plate Flywheel bearing sits proud of the flywheel, is this normal...? Flywheel looks fine - no hot spots etc... Slight grease deposits visible. The clutch plate grooves are clogged up with what appears to be due to the slipping. There's also a 1mm lip on the inside of the plate itself which leads me to thinking something is not seated correctly (could be due to grease). Is anyone a clutch expert and know if the grease could be the cause of the slipping? Thanks

Collected and fitted a set of WRC styled carbon fibre wing mirror's.

A mate of mine has exactly the same CEL - turned out to be O2 sensor. Where you located (probably down south)? I have an OBD2 reader.

Nice STiNGR I'm a fan of crystals too. Had a bit of a busy wkend, stripped and painted an intake manifold in crinkle red. Then decided to do something about my FMIC (which I don't like much...) so painted it black. Very happy with the results.

May be worth bleeding. This link explains how to adjust the pedal. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/transmission-awd/103123-adjusting-clutch-pedal.html

I'm no mechanic, but have swapped shocks loads of times. Its pretty straight forward as described. I'm with GC8E2DD on the spring compressor's, definitely makes life a lot easier. I'd also have to agree on using a rattle gun to loosen the top nut as its rather difficult without one, can't imagine there's not a lot of room (particularly in rear) to loosen it with shocks in the car. Another point I though was worth mentioning is to ensure the top spring retainer in correctly orientated. I marked mine with a white marker before removing the top hats.

Pulled the wing off for a buff and new foam adhesive tape so took it for a drive - rather strange without the wing and I'm not a fan so put it straight back on.

Excellent, thanks for confirming. [quote name='Richwalk said: Looked at it, dead in the garage as I got my bike out to ride to work How much is required? Also I notice Motul is Mineral, Subaru Spec stuff is Synthetic. Any advantage one way or the other? Mine took a little under a litre. Got a 2 L container so I could do my RA too. I also wandered about the fact that its mineral oil, but read up about it and have used the same Motul in my RA without any issues. I'll just change it more frequently.

Fresh rear diff oil, service the day before. What oil do you guys use in your R180?

Thought about it and decided not to go ahead due to the unknown. Which is very disappointing as I really want a GTR, especially this one! Had another discussion with the owner today and he definitely seems legit - even gave me names of certifier so I can follow-up and clarify any questions I have etc... Ok, so the reason the car has not been registered is due to the fact that the repair work that was carried out was not seen prior to under body being sealed - meaning seal will have to be removed and re-inspected (not too serious, assuming work carried out was done properly). With regards to registering / reselling its a 94 so will be registered as a classic (not special interest vehicle) meaning it can be resold without waiting 4 years (apparently). I need to find someone that deals with registering an import so I can make 100% certain things will work out.

Here's a pic of the IC spray bottle in my V3 (blue top behind drivers side headlight).

Cheers man. It starts and dies pretty much right away. Keeps going if I give it a bit of gas, but dies as soon as I stop.

Thanks for your input / advice guys, appreciate it. Finally got around to having a look today and was going to start by bleeding the clutch and resetting the pedal but decided to pull the intercooler off to have a look at the slave cylinder / release fork etc... Noticed straight away the release fork spring was missing... I thought it was a bit slack when I fitted the gearbox etc so got a spare from pickapart in case I had issues (never crossed my mind). Anyway, I put the spare on, took it for a good long drive and it went great until the way back when it started slipping again! I peered under the intercooler and the second spring is gone! I may have to try a shorter spring. Will there be any issues if the tension on the spring is a bit much?

I want to relocate the coilpack, so removed & blocked off the idle control valve today as car was not running it and idling well (running a Link). It no longer idles - I assume it has a leak somewhere despite using silicone etc... Has anyone blocked off the idle control valve before, if so how did you get around it? Cheers

That's a good point, thanks man. Definitely worth raising / looking into before going any further.

Brilliant, thanks for the info. Really appreciate it. I'll definitely request more info prior to driving up to AKL to view the car. Cheers

Hey guys, I've done a quick search, but no info on registering a damaged / rust repaired vehicle. Ive been offered a trade for my STIs and am seriously considering it as the offer is very tempting / worth it Wont say too much for now as these deals usually fall through and Im not sure I want to get rid of both STIs at this point Its great having one as a daily and the other for weekends. Anyway, back onto the registering The vehicle was imported last year and is a 1994 it was setup and tuned in Japan (has a roll cage etc). The seller states hes completed 90% of the registering process which includes a VIN and cert for all mods apart from certifying the rust repairs that have been completed. The damage was minor, but needed to be repaired for it to comply. Surely the repair work would have to be verified prior to VIN / cert ? If not, how difficult would it be to comply and what would I have to prove / do to complete the process? Its a special interest vehicle Ill give you a bit more info, its a Nissan. Appreciate and advice / info. Thanks

Finally managed to find a set of Eagle HT leads. Car runs a lot smoother with them fitted.