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agusta

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  1. plugs at every sensor seemed clean as. Didnt go further into main loom at all
  2. Ive just pulled the avcs solenoids out on both sides for inspection, they seem ok, and undone the banjo lines next to them, neither had any small filter in them
  3. Oh sweet, yeah I hade a read over them but they seemed pretty 4cyl turbo specific so i wasnt sure
  4. Hi I posted a thread a while back in the legacy forum but problem is developing a bit further. A month ago my CEL came on with al the other blinky lights, local garage plugged in scanner found fault and replaced cam position sensor bank 1. It went well for about 300ks and then it started again. Now it chucks the CEL every other time, but it will miss without a CEL and sometimes stall at idle. Put the scanner back on it. And the same fault has appeared. Just wondering if anyone has encounted this so we can cut down some time fault finding. Genunine subaru sensor was used on the first change. thanks
  5. Hey Cheers for the replies, got it scanned and replaced a cam position sensor. Was sweet for a day, then on the drive back from AKL airport yesterday it faulted once and I cant get it to do it again. Done 300ks since sensor.
  6. Hi, Today when driving I noticed my CEL/Traction/Cruise light came on the dash and there was a bit of hesitation for around 10s and then the lights went off again. I cruised home to get stuck into google but havnt been to get anything solid (without a OBD scanner untill a weekday) Went for another drive to try fault find. It seems to all happen about 3500 (VVL/VVT?) then the lights will flash away and all the hesitions/limp mode come back in. Any help very much appreciated. Sidenote: months ago in some horrendous rain i noticed my Traction Control Off light came on the dash untill I turned the car on and off again. - suspected wheel sensor but done nothing about it. Hope it gets my to the airport on thursday!
  7. Following this thread, let us know how you get on the that suspension knock
  8. Update just measured the box, got 14L of water in it, would be 15 if it was on the right angle which is a coincidence that this is also the recommended size for the sub.
  9. I notice the enclosure gets a bit of vibration so i'll try dampen the inside to see if i can stop the resonance
  10. Heres the box i fibreglassed. Yet to measure volume. image hosting above 5 mb
  11. The specs for the sub recommend a .5cu (15L) sealed enclosure and a 1.5cu for a ported. I would say my enclosure would be a fraction bigger then the sealed specs. But i will fill it water water and measure. Its hard to make the enclose bigger without it taking a heap of space in the boot.
  12. The amp under the seat has a lpf
  13. Hi, I have a 04 legacy wagon with the non mcintosh stereo. Kenwood I think. So far I've put a anycarlink in it, line level convertor to a cheap kenwood amp under the seat and I've fibreglassed a sub box in the back left of the boot/hatch. Sub is a fusion 10" I know the equipment is very average in the past I've at focal, dd, rainbow gear but this is obv a budget setup. Now the sub is real droney, and I'd like it to hit bass notes lower. It sounded better in my previous car in a different enclosure. Should I calculate a port to use for this or do I need a bigger sub enclose, I'm unsure how big it is and i would need to pour water into it to measure. Any tips to get lower bass notes and not so peaky? Cheers
  14. Would you just whip the arm off and do both of the bushes in it or how do you check which is buggered?
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