KingCole
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Posts posted by KingCole
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Hi all,
Just as the title states, I am interested in someone who can do some suspension repair as one of my rear HKS Hipermax adjustable suspension has developed a knock (based on my initial investigation). I have not investigated it further yet but would like to know if there are any recommendations for suspension repairs in Auckland? I was wondering whether it is cheaper to repair it or just buy a set of new ones.
I know repairs and costs vary but if you have gotten something like this repaired, please let me know how much you paid to get it done.
Cheers
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If you haven't got a turbo yet, I have a brand new GTX3071 with 0.83A/R V-Band turbine housing that I am willing to sell considering I sold my car. It will get you to 300kw with ease.
PM me for pricing if you are interested.
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I ran around 23 psi peak boost in my V8 STI for about 2 years before I sold it. It was tuned for that so never had any problems
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Dont you need an IAT sensor with the Carberry that you need to hook up? I have heard great things about it but you would need a good tuner to tune the car with Carberry.
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14 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Cheers. The HRC35/2 I used has a rrp of 1650 off the top of my head. A common HX35 with 7 blade comp and 16cm housing off a dodge roughly 7-900 landed from the states secondhand. Then a rebuild and smaller housing puts you up to similar money as the local sourced murch holsets. If you buy off murch he will tell you what you need to do to make the most of it too which is an added bonus.
Oh I see. Just investigating turbo options for the future when I buy another Subaru. Thanks for your help.
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Great write up and pics. I was wondering how much do these holset turbos normally go for?
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450 hp on which fuel?
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Don't forgot it still got 215kw atw peak, and good torque in the high rev range - refer to dyno chart on page 1. So it can't have anything majorly wrong with it
I spoke to the ex tuner Dave from TP and he said there were other ways to avoid approaching knock rather than just making the tune rich. I will be getting it tuned for Gull force 10 as well, which could help.
Dyno power numbers can be manipulated so keep that in mind
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How much power was yours making?, Do you think with my setup and power it will collapse?
I made 220 kw at the wheels with 23 psi mid range. I don't know if it will collapse for yours or not but I am never installing a silicone inlet on my car again.
The vacuum line fittings on the MandH inlet hose were flimsy and came off. We had to clamp the actual fitting to the hose so it wouldn't suck in excess air post-maf.
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My MandH silicone hose collapsed in 3 months. I went with a metal one and was only a bit more expensive but worth it. Surprisingly the metal one was easier to install than MandH haha.
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I am interested to see if they actually give you a refund.
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What about on 1st and 2nd man? Apperently its because of the stock ecu? Cant get even boost across all gears because of load? Not sure on the details
I haven't got the logs for 1st and 2nd gear but I think it hits full boost in 2nd gear for me. Would you like to compare the difference in driveability? You are welcome to swing by and I can do a couple of pulls for you. Just PM me.
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vf37 should be hitting 22psi + bloody close to 3k?! as far as only hitting 16 in 1st... my v7 sti with vf30 tuned to 21.5psi (full boost at 3700ish)...only hits 17 ish in first... 15-16 if iv waited at the lights for ages...! is this a case too safe of a tune... low boost, really rich... running low gain...
My VF37 hits 23 psi around 3700rpm in 4th and that is pretty normal.
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Even if it was a faulty solenoid or any other part, surely the tuner would have noticed that car was not running as expected (compared to other Vf37s they have tuned) and try to find/fix the issue. However, it seems like the tuner is happy and is passing it off as a finished tune which doesn't seem right.
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Yeah it does
The exact same thing was happening to me. I replaced the o2 sensor, changed fuel filter and cleaned injectors but nothing seemed to work and then did a smoke test and found a vaccum leak post maf on the turbo inlet.
To find the vacuum leak, I bought a $40 dollar smoke/fog machine and attached a hose on the outlet and pumped it in the intake after blocking it off. If you see any smoke coming out then you have a leak. I should have done this first instead of buying a new o2 sensor because sensor was 300 bucks haha.
My comments are based on my personal experience but best to get a code reader first and see what is going on.
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My v7 has just started idling super rough and I have a check engine light. I took it for a test drive today and it seems fine. It appears to only be an idle issue. I havn't had a chance to run the codes yet. I replaced my o2 sensor as it was visibly damaged and the wires were not in good shape. Seemed to help a small amount. I have cleaned the maf and I'm certain I have no vaccum leaks.
What other things could it be? Obviously need to get the codes ran but havn't had a chance yet.
Does the car almost stall when you tap the throttle and wait for the revs to stabilize?
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How much did he quote you bro? Curious
190 including GST, shipping and the silicone coupler. 160 without the coupler. I am also sending him my stock inlet so he can get it as close as possible. I am only getting the 2.5" diameter but price may probably change for 3" one. If you want yours done then just message him, he is quick to respond.
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What cfm?
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Its obviously not big enough so comment still stands .
Iy prolly takes 2 psi to suck that hose in . Thats psi extra your turbo has to generate above what you are seeing on the gauge or feeding to the engine.
At a wild ass guess your running 20 psi . Thats 10 % more work your turbo has to do that it needs to do . Hmm more iat . More exhaust back pressure .
Still laughing out loud ?
We ran it with the factory airbox, then aluminum intake (not inlet) with and without a filter and just a mesh around the intake. Still the same issue. Trust me, the pipe is just collapsing on boost no question about it.
Good call on LDS Fab though, got a very good price from him.
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What brands are you using? The better ones are supposed to be reinforced with SS wire to prevent them collapsing.
MandH was supposed to be reinforced but didn't really seem that rigid going by my personal experience. Was a mission to install too and it wasn't the same size as the stock one
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Recommendations for suspension repair in Auckland
in General Vehicle Discussion
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Thanks man will check this place out