KingCole

Not the intake pipe, I want to replace the silicone hose with a metal one. This is the second silicone inlet that collapsed within the span of 3 months. I should have left stock one on but decided to change it for peace of mind due to its age. I thought it would be worth it to ask here before I get one shipped from the states.

Hi guys, Just wanted a turbo inlet fabricated for STI v8 in the Auckland region preferably over the weekend as I need the car for work. If anyone is keen, pm me please. Thanks

Are their oxygen sensors genuine?

I have had no issues with the quality of sound of my component speakers etc at high speed even with the loud exhaust. I have run some Soundstream components rated at 100RMS+ without an amp and even they did not have any sound quality issues at high speeds.

The amp is bit more powerful than the speakers are rated to run on. From my personal experience, I wouldn't run an amp that is rated higher RMS than the speaker can handle especially if you listen to music at high volumes. I am sure many people do the opposite and have no issues as it all depends on the quality of the speakers and amp. Many amps claim to make a specific power but don't actually make the quoted power. With my Rockford amp, I got a cert from factory that had measured the exact power output and it was underrated.

I ran a Rockford fosgate amp 100 RMS x 2 (bridged) at 4 ohms for Polk Audio DB6501 components rated at 100rms each. It was way too much power for those speakers (even though they are rated at 100rms each) and I had to recone them last year. Running them at 50RMS at the moment and it's more than enough.

Thanks Subirex for helping me out with mine too! All fixed.

I have the exact issue. I need to find someone who can help me out with a Vac/boost leak test around Auckland. I replaced the IACV gasket, the IACV itself and cleaned the MAF. Idle is still very low and rough. I got 140km from half a tank from normal driving so it is pretty bad haha. I do have a venty HKS SSQ BOV though.

Blouch turbo has a billet compressor wheel. Does the ATP unit have a billet compressor wheel?

Your turbo is bigger and it still spools sooner. There is no way the 1.5XTR should be spooling that slow.

You should be able to run mid/late 11s with that setup depending on your driving and launch. The 2.5XTR is a great turbo and so far I haven't seen any negative reviews but maybe because most people put these on 2.5L engines so the extra displacement helps with the spool. Had a look at the graph and that spools feckin slow for a 2.0L if the run was done in 4th gear. Did your tuner say why this is spooling almost 1000 rpm slower than expected?

Do you know when you are hitting 23 psi in 4th gear? Thanks

edited

Nice! I bet that would be a blast to drive on the street. Yeap it is expected to fall off after 6.5K but I have seen the 2.5XTR hold more power up top and full boost hits a few hundred rpm later than 1.5XTR. For stock block and daily driving, I would choose 1.5XTR all the way. [quote name='evowrx said: Guessing its the smaller turbine gt3071 then. Thats what i based my predictions on lol. Dyno sheet? Yeap it is smaller than GT/X3071 but a very punchy turbo.

2.5XTR is equivalent to GTX3071. The 1.5XTR is just slightly smaller. http://gcg.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=125:housingconversion&catid=41:turbo-stuff&Itemid=99 10 cm2 is ~0.73 A/R Blouch turbos are the same as ScoobyClinic turbos except the scoobyclinic range have slightly smaller housings. I was actually reading up old threads on Blouch 1.5 turbo and Blouch actually used to let people send in their stock turbos and they used to convert them to 1.5 Polka Pickle (non billet as far as I can remember) but the exhaust housing was a restriction on stock turbos so they stopped doing that. However, the benefit was that that it was much cheaper to send the stock turbo for an upgrade and many people thought it was worth it because the midrange was punchy.

I think the 10cm housing will only hit full boost ~300rpm or so later than the 8cm housing as per the testing done by TopSpeed on Nasioc. I know most of these tests were done on 2.5L engines but twinscroll setup will help. There are a lot of options for clutches these days but you can't go wrong with Exedy or ACT Stage 2 or higher heavy duty and/or street friendly clutches.

270kw on pump is quite normal for 1.5XTRs at ~23psi. I would love to see the dyno plot and boost plot once it is tuned. Best street setup in my opinion for ej207s and stock location turbo.

Standard Walbro will get you to 300kw without any issues.

Was that the car that Al from Raijin tuned?

MasterPower turbos are laggy and average as mentioned above. Holset turbo will easily spool quicker than MasterPower turbo and net you more gains.

Will give it a go. Thanks

I will test for boost leaks next week anyway to see if the BOV is leaking. The car was tuned with the BOV on it and did not have any issues till a few weeks ago

Oh yes, forgot to mention that I also have a venting Genuine HKS SSQ BOV.

I have some questions on resetting stock ECUs with aftermarket tunes on them. Car - V8 STI. Is resetting a good idea if the car is running slightly rich and also has a rough idle? Is it safe to reset if there is an alarm/immobiliser installed in the car? Rough idle symptoms - If the car is idling with first gear engaged and you blip the throttle then the car would almost stall by dipping the revs and coming back up. AC is not on during this. I am planning to get my IACV cleaned and MAF cleaned prior to reset. A/F rich symptons - Distinctive Carbon build up on the rear bumper and smell of unburnt fuel. Sadly, I dont have a cable/gauge to log anything so just going but the gut here. Any help will be appreciated. Edit: I have a K N Filter, 3" exhaust system and EBCS installed on the car. All the mods have been mapped for