calebwrx

AGXs are great - maybe a little bit harsh for everyday driving even on the softest setting, but everyone's tolerance is different.

Will see yall for the track day!

You dare hang S*** on AU falcons?! https://www.facebook.com/aufalcons

Nope, untuned

My 3.0r can barely get 7.5km/l city driving around wellington, 12.5 open road, so it's not flash on fuel when not towing. .With 1.5 tonne loaded onto it I would hate to think what the fuel use would be, and when you add the fact it takes 98 petrol you're looking at $$$ to tow long distance. I would look at something newish diesel. But, just to contradict myself completely, I'm considering putting a towbar on it to tow my WRX around lol.

Yeah my biggest concern with cheaper tyres is how much noise they're going to make and how comfortable they'll be. Good to know the zetums don't seem to have that issue.

I've also heard that they're a perfectly acceptable daily tyre. I'll be trying them when i need to replace what's on my BLE. Try Burkes Tyres Kilburne.

Washed em'. WRX looks like it has a lift kit when it's parked on an incline

Yes it will. Stick a resistor in there or get the CEL disabled by a tuner

A few years back we did a cruise around Whitby to see all the Xmas lights, could be an idea. Problem is I can't make it on a weeknight as it doesn't get dark till damn near 10pm. EDIT: I'm asleep by 9.30 usually LOL

Might get some and start applying it before my 4th gen starts showing signs of the problem. Watching this for a while tho, just in case your dash starts peeling and cracking in the next few summer months lol.

Replaced my McIntosh 6"s recently with some Polk audio DB651 6.5" drivers. They do the job pretty well. No adapters required, they come with multi-hole/pattern adapters that fit pretty much perfectly. Ideally you would replace them with something 8ohm but they can be somewhat hard to find, the Polk's are 4ohm and my the McIntosh amp seems to be coping fine so far.

Anyone here driving on GY Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3s? Tossing up whether or not I want to stick to RE003s or try something else. They're for my 3.0r so comfort is important, which RE003s are average for. The Asymmetric 3s are a good $ more per tyre vs the RE003.

I have an AVS too. Battery lasts 2 weeks at a stretch without driving it.

Mmmm all this facelift goodness is making me jealous

I love my 3.0, very smooth and torquey unit. They aren't V8 level bad on petrol around town, but they're no 4cyl Honda either, last time I looked I think I was getting ~7.5km/l city and ~12km/l highway. Agree with @Kiwi_Fozze to get the newest you can afford. Facelift models are just that - facelifted, the front grill, head and tail lights and front and rear bumper are different among other things. Also my auto box will occasionally hang onto gears for too long (holding 2nd when clearly it should be in 3rd), but these are bugs that I believe can be fixed with a TCU flash from by Subaru.

I was trying to get at the principal behind it = hard rubber mounts/bracing increases noise transfer form moving parts to the chassis and into the cabin.

Don't quote me, but I'm going to blindly say it should be normal. Same results from installing a Group N trans mount on my car, now I have a very noticeable grinding sound from the box on deceleration. My conclusion = the noise was always there (might be normal, might not be, high chance it could lunch itself soon being a 5 speed), the new solid mounts just transfer it to the chassis and into the cabin more than the soft ones did. Could be the same thing for you?

10mm spacers must be the slip on type = big no no IMO, your wheel nuts will have 1cm less threads to grab onto and spacers add extra load to the wheel bearings. 2011 STI must be 5x114.3 with bigger/stronger bearings so it's not as big of an issue as it is for the 5x100 guys I guess. On top of that they're illegal it's not even possible to get a cert for slip on spacers.

WRX wagons - when you've got rubbish to dump at 10 but need to smoke some Evos at 4....

http://www.stahlcar.nz/diagnostic-tools/obd1-tools/obd1-pc/subaruobd Will do the trick also. Can read codes, view realtime stats and learning tables, but can't be used for tuning like a Tactrix.

Nope, not for me. They come with 2 shims per pad so i used both and no noise.

Silverline is a cheap brand sold at Repco iirc, not at all designed for track use lol. I actually think the contact area on the pads for the 316mm rotor is bigger than the 4pots.

If you can find a wrecked BP/BL at pickapart then its a cheap upgrade, you'll need calipers, brackets and disks. Znoelli's are ~$200 retail at BNT.

4th gen+ LGTs and 3.0ls have 316x30mm rotors with 2 pot sliding calipers front, 290x18mm 1 pot sliders on the rear. I assumed Outbacks were the same but looks like I'm wrong - wth Subaru this page has some good info https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265631 as does this one http://northursalia.com/modifications/brakes/gtrear/gtrear.html Anyways yes, the front and rears should bolt straight on as they did for me on my WRX (might have to remove the backing plate). I tracked the WRX with these brakes and Znoelli sp500 pads front (supercheap auto specials rear) and it took 3 laps of Taupo to cook them, but they seemed to cool pretty quickly down the dragway straight. Bearing in mind I'm not an experienced track driver and I was being gentle with engine braking because 5 speed - an experienced trackist could probably get another lap or 2 before they started to fade. Not sure what effect the extra weight of an Outback would have.