calebwrx

Sounds exactly like my V7. It's always annoyed me but apparently it happens to a lot of our cars. Although come to think of it I've never felt it in my friends V8. @IZichard you have this with yours?

Not sure how often they update stock levels but https://www.amayama.com/en is also a fairly cheap place to get genuine parts although their order processing takes longer, takes about 4-5 business days for processing.

Haha yeah. It was leaking a little bit for 6 months and then I didn't drive it for a week so i guess the rubber just dried out and I ended up with that.

Not sure if it was a problem with Legacys, but WRXs around 01 had issues where fuel would leak onto the engine block under the intake manifold. Have a sniff around the left side of the engine around the coolant header tank right in the middle of the 2x intake runners, if you smell it real strong it could be the same issue. As a reference here's my car before I fixed it, mine was real bad as you can see. Video was taken just above the turbo intake.

Not much use to you sorry but for any Wellington members, this gentleman (Julian) comes recommended. http://www.vehiclesecurity.co.nz Even if you just have a read of his blogs you'll soon get to know what is recommended and what isn't.

Haha, good fun eh! You're game with it on the middle setting, I can only handle the lowest.

Steering wheel locks are useless, I used one on a previous car - people can just saw the steering wheel and remove it. Can't speak much for prevention tactics, I just have an alarm and GPS tracker. If someone reeeeeealy wants your car they'll probably just tow it.

What sorta car you got? I have one that I have successfully read codes on V7 + V8 WRXs and SG Foresters.

Bought it at 175000, now at 202000

Where are you based? Someone in your area should have a code reader to pull the CEL codes for you.

Anyone had one/have any experience with these mufflers? How loud is it likely to be compared stock system? If nothing, free advertising for the seller. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/auction-1217135296.htm

Nah I use the same, you should be fine. Your one probably just had a hard life.

Haha your friend should only be allowed to use 1/4" tools from now on so they can't snap any more bolts. Try from here: http://spare-parts.co.nz/. Recently got my rear wheel bearings from them, arrived in a few business days. Or BNT may have some if you can't wait that long. Edit: Just had a look at forester parts on that site, seems you may need to buy the parts by searching the Impreza sections: http://spare-parts.co.nz/amfinder/?find=subaru-impreza-g11--2000-2007--1601560&p=1

Location and activity sounds good but I can't do Sundays I don't expect it to be moved purely on my account, but if others can't make it either I prefer Saturdays.

The ones from supercheap are OK for general work, I have one. They can remove most suspension bolts but they can't handle rusted ones very well. You won't find anything of much quality for less. http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/Rockwell-ShopSeries-Cordless-Impact-Wrench-1-2-18-Volt-Li-Ion/342595

How much money you got?

Did you strip the nut or the bolt? If you stripped the bolt as you're saying try removing the nut instead (the way you should have done it first tbh lol), make sure you have the socket on it properly.

Your torque specs are correct. Bottom 2 bolts in the strut clevis go as tight as you can get them, the studs on the top go to 14.5 ft Lbs, be careful not to over tighten them or the stud will probably snap, they're only little, speaking from experience

Also this. Usually after I've been driving in the rain and parked it overnight.

Did the pistons go back without too much force? If you had to clamp them back in really hard the seal in the caliper is probably toast. From your OP I guess the new pads are wearing faster than usual?

The caliper piston could be stuck, did you try to push it back in when you were changing the pads?

Yes, oil will need to be drained and you'll need to unbolt the engine mounts and jack it up a bit, I jacked it up from the gearbox when I replaced my sump. Just an FYI it will take about 5.5l of oil to fill it afterwards. It's a pretty shitty job tbh. Watch this and take note of the tools he uses - you'll need all of them.

That's the image most people refer to when setting up their boost control lines, obviously relevant to standard boost control. A pic of how your lines are set up at the moment would be good too. Also check where the turbo inlet pipe connects to the turbo, the rubber often gets torn and causes vacuum leaks.

Nice! But oh man my 200 000km old 5 speed wouldn't thank me if I drove it like that

@IZichard this will improve your front wheel geometry, paired with some alloy arms + ALK will see you ~4 degrees of caster.