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Posts posted by gotasuby
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Not a correction factor. Just means if you do it in 5th and sync rpm to hub speed then do 4th and recalibrate ratio it will read the same. Otherwise you will get different torque readings in each gear
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23 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Do all dynapack dyno’s do it that way? So you’d be essentially getting wheel kw and flywheel torque on the readout?
Yes correct but remember engine torque measured at the axles after all drive train loss so same engine on a engine dyno will read higher
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15 hours ago, ginganinja said:
Out of interest, do rolling road dynos read higher torque than the hub dynos? Just seems a lot of dyno sheets i've seen done on rolling road have quite high torque numbers.
Some rolling roads do read a higher torque reading wgich I guess is measured axle torque. Our dyno does that too but then decides it by diff and gearbox ratio to give engine torque
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Did you start it multiple times cold? As Subaru's will do it when they bore waste and flood it.
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- Popular Post
So it's been a while. This is a v7 sti standard crste motor with second hand standard heads off a v7 sti. Supporting fuel system and a link ecu. Fmic and bolt on twin scroll blouch 3.0xt-r turbo.
We wanted 400hp with bolt on turbo on pump gas. This is I think the limit of what is achieveable on a bolt on turbo. It is at 26psi to achieve it.
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Fabricated will never be as cheap as bought if done right
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I've got 2 of these in bpe cars. They are really good value for money
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If you download the g4 software under legacy software and go to help file there is all the pinout in there
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The car is in my workshop atm. Engine bay pic can be added once its back together
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I should have one in stock
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21 hours ago, Saheel said:
Still make these mate?
Yes I am
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D. gives you more control
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I have the headers. They are well made. Are Chinese now though. Never the cai. In all honesty don't think its worth it
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Get rid of it
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Bigger cams are a waste of time on a vf30. Then can cause slower spool
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Coming from the other side the amount of s*** Chinese parts especially fuel parts like injectors and fuel pressure regulators is astounding and means we need to have a disclaimer for problems not arising from our work. Any tuner should stand by any work they do And parts they supply.
The other problem we are getting more and more of is people are buying project unfinished cars that have had 3 different owners, Chinese whispers turns it from being a rb25de+t motor to a fully forged rb25 will head studs etc. Its not financially viable for us to pull off heads to check so if we are informed that an engine is forged we treat it that way.
It also goes both ways, we have had many customers that try and drop car for tuning on 98 or npd100 then bringing it back a few weeks later down on power and surging etc on boost and we find 95 or even 91 in the tank because it was cheaper. This fuel grade clusse is in our contract but still gets ignored.
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Your centre diff needs replacing.
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10 hours ago, pl0x said:
Got my long block fully back together and timed last night. Need to merge the avcs wiring into my engine loom and run some wires to the link.
FYI for anyone interested - BP/BL dual avcs and V11 dual avcs aren't exactly the same. Few differences I've noted where parts don't cross over:
Driver side exhaust cam sensor bolt hole spacing (bit rough but can drill out the bp/bl sensor so it's slotted)
bp/bl intake cam sensors are 3 wire (link wiring suggests you just join 2 of the wires into sensor ground, assume factory has a ground and a separate sensor ground?)
Newer model heads have secondary air pump ports on the back. (Need to block them with the sensors, blanking plate or tap and put a blank bolt/plug in)
Driver side oil feed lines are supplied from a different point (both heads have both gallery bungs so can just switch them around)
The 3 wire sensors are hall effect and need 12v,gnd and signal
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Not that I can see. Don't know flow rates though
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Theta re are 3 port change over valve similar to mac 3 port
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3 hours ago, StrokedEJ said:
That's impressive for subi.. considering overseas (aus and states) push 36-43psi to make around that figure. What clutch and box you run
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
It has a lot of head work and very well designed exhaust and intake all designed around flow.
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15 hours ago, StrokedEJ said:
Nicccce. How much boost did you run through that badboy
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
30psi of boost
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SAS Dyno setup, result and characteristics thread
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Correct people always ask hp at the engine. And it really doesn't matter. A 300hp car at the wheels could make 320 or 500hp at the engine all that matter is what comes out the axles