gotasuby
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Posts posted by gotasuby
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4th and blew up gearbox up at just over 420kw and swapped it out and went back to dyno
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So we have put new turbo on and didn't quite crack 500wkw as ran out of fuel pumps.
Have designed a new setup of headers and mounting turbo in front of cam covers with this coming on to full boost at 3800rpm ish. Absolutely mental when it hits boost as torque skyrockers.
Gotasuby - 479.76wkw
Model: 2002 V7 STI GDB
Displacement: 2.35l
Mods: S366 Turbo, ID1700@55psi base. ported heads, cams, fmic, 3.5" exhaust, DW300 FP, G4+, front mounted turbo.
Fuel: E75
Tuner: Me/SAS
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So eg33 is actually really easy to get parts as it's just a ej22 with 2 more cyl so all ej22 parts work incl pistons, rods valve train etc. Cams are only issue but they can be reground easy enough. They are a stronger block factory and have thicker cylinder wall thickness but it's a far bigger engine physically.
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Have towed for many years a race car on tandem trailer with spares and fuel. Yes there is better cars but we have done kilmogs, arthers pass plus all the way to whangarei. The old outback does ok just keep eye on Temps and keep servicing up. It is extremely thirsty when towing though
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13 hours ago, RepNZ said:
Were they Subtech ones? What did you do to make them fit properly?
Did you put them on first and then find out?
Yes first one out on and then modified. Yes subtech ones. We cut out rubbing section and fitted a cutout of a 3" bit of tube to clear knuckle being fitted inverted.
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We have had 2 downpipes do exactly same issue and now modify them before fitting
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It will be a 240mm standard 6 speed single mass clutch. I wouldn't go too heavy duty as you don't need it with the power that they put out factory.
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I had 4 airbags replaced in 1 week a couple. Of months ago. Surprisingly they did good job on 3 but stuffed up the nicest car. It had most aftermarket gear in it and struggled to plug back in stereo and tablet etc properly. I even left my phone number with a note beside it saying any questions at all call me. There excuse was their apprentice didn't have much experience haha
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11 hours ago, Dairusire said:
Haha I know right?
I spoke to Brian Roberts towing and they've advised that it's $960+gst or something loike that. Which isn't bad for sure!
Have you tried silcock transport? He's a rally car driver so good to deal with.
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Yes had a but to do with it as local npd which is 5 mins away has it and cheaper than 98. Definitely more knock resistance. Would highly recommend for anyone with a sgt, bp turbo or rev d legacy
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I don't usually share too much of my diagrams but I'm feeling generous.
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Buy a standard v7 sti engine. Do fuel system, front mount and efr turbo with link. Will produce 300wkw and 500nm easy and should hit fill boost by 3800 ish
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3 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Cool. Cheers for that.
Any reason to get the separate can lambda over a Fury with built in o2 functionality? Looks to be cheaper going that way than the separate module
What's the Denso part number on your one?
Main issue is needing to get ECU’s coded to the immobilizer and all that which isn't all that cheap either
A fury would be good as well. Seperate was only if you didn't have lambda in built. Have you tried a seperate boost controller if that's only issue you are having?
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1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:
Getting to the serious end of how i'm actually going to do this after mucking around putting it off for years so figure i'd chuck my thoughts up so those of you more familiar with aftermarket ECU's can potentially set me right.
Have been slowly going through wiring diagrams and confirming wire colours/pin locations against my car at the ECU, Engine bay connector and plugs themselves since Subaru didn't bother to keep the colours the same at the Engine bay connector.
At this point my main concern is deciding what the Link is going to have for it's inputs and outputs.
The aim is to 'try' do a tidy job similar to what @gotasuby has done with an in-between loom where some wires go straight through to the stock ECU, some to both and some only to the Link. Have got a spare ECU and ECU loom with plugs to do this.
I'm aiming to have most inputs still going back to the stock ECU as well as the required ones going to the Link so that the tablet running BTSSM will still function off the OBD2 port.
Later on down the track i'm going to look into using the SI-Drive knob as a map switcher but want to keep things simple for now.
This list is a starting point so i'm sure there will be a few things I haven't thought of.
Inputs
Crank position
Knock
Coolant temp
Oil pressure switch - stock one?
Oil temp
TPS - part of e-throttle?
MAP - seperate, link only maybe?
RPM
Cam positions x 4
Outputs
Injectors x4
Coils x4
E-throttle
OCV x4
Boost solenoid
Fuel pump control - maybe?
You want both ecus to share
-crank
-cams
-tps1
-tps2
-aps1
-aps2
-ect
-iat
-map
-knock
-speed (this one's needs to come from expansion plug above throttle peddle)
Link only to control
-avcs solinoids
-e throttle Motor
-injectors
-coils
-boost control
Factory ecu can keep looking after
-tacho
-fans
-starter control (link controls mine and is now push button start)
-purge solinoid
-CEL
Would get rid of all o2 sensors and fit a can lambda.
Fuel pump can be either but need to remap ecu to get rid of codes and also run fuel pump 100% all the time as defaults to only 33% if it has injector faults. Or get link to control.
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I would say oxygen sensor
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Need bigger rear turbo housing I say. Subaru's do not like back pressure
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Part number is written right on top of afm. Open bonnet and it right there
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4 hours ago, Dairusire said:
I thought SAS wasn't in attendance this year? This is fantastic news.
We won't have the dyno and be official sponsors this year as was too costly to do but definitely will be there to catch up, chat and have fun
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We just bought a turbo to hit 500kw so perfect timing.
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You want oil pressure back there as it shows oil pressure problems earlier than front. Oil temp will be ok there. Not quite as got as sump though
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Where are you located?
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Every tuner from the North Island I have spoken to about gets better gains power wise and less knock on Mobil 98 vs bp98. We only have bp98 down here so cannot compare myself
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I'll be there with the rest of the crew
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Common problem.. Most are cracked. Get welded up with strength plate weldedon
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in General Vehicle Discussion
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Very much so. Only has a Honda civic radiator to fit turbo in front