gotasuby
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Posts posted by gotasuby
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I have the door lock motors in stock if you don't want to wait for ebay
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51 minutes ago, SpeedySub said:
Any one had this happen before?
No chance
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Better handling and response I find. But yes reade off is I find over harsh pit holes it bangs quite badly. Being a weekend car for me it's a nice trade off
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I have the kca334 in my car and the first one lasted about 50000km before perishing. The next one is still good 30000 on
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Pull apart and clean. They pretty simple inside
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They don't take much to make them sticky. Have to be super careful with them. I've had 2 different times they have stuck
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When you launch the engine tries to twist backwards. That's what it's for. If you were rwd you wouldn't need it
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23 minutes ago, evowrx said:
@gotasuby stroker or destroker?
2.5l crank 98mm ej22 stroker pistons
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1 hour ago, Dairusire said:
Curious, what's done to the cams / heads
Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
Other than the porting of course.
Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
Kelford b cams, and cnc porting plus all extras by Kelford. Oversize valves and springs etc.
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Gotasuby - 393.4wkw
Model: 2002 V7 STI GDB
Displacement: 2.35l
Mods: S300 Turbo, ID1700@50psi base. ported heads, cams, fmic, 3" exhaust, DW300 FP, G4+, Twin scroll legacy headers.
Fuel: E85
Tuner: Me/SASUpdate to this car. We built a new engine for this year rally sprints. Wanted to max out turbo and header setup. Think the small legacy headers are at there limit. All at 25psi
98 tune shown as well
Upgrade to efr turbo and better headers should see 450wkw
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5
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Use bnt fuel injection hose. Can't remember brand but it's far better than repco stuff.
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I would do option c. You will need to add more wiring as V5 loom won't have extra stuff for avcs but it's best option
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32 minutes ago, GC8E2DD said:
Could be hitting boost cut?
Would say it may be hitting boost cut on primary in 5th. Could test theory by towing something or going up steep hill in 4th at same rpm to see if same symptoms. And check boost levels with a gauge
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Targets are the same. It's very slightly heavier due to the lead in it but would be supprised if it changed much?
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Can run more timing than unleaded. Only usefull if knock limited. The dilution of the oil and the residue left on spartan plugs, ports and exhaust are a pain though. Same lambda targets as unleaded.
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1 of my nz new bp Legacys are doing it. Other 2 are not
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Got tune file?
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And don't lift up rear of bonnet as its a high pressure zone actually feeding air into the engine bay. Could turn scoop around?
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100 degrees is not that hot. Move limit to 110. If pressure cap is doing its job you will be good to 125 ish. Rally car will run a constant 120 no problem. Air ducting and a radiator water spray will help alot
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Has a new genuine o ring been installed?
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Replace the top O ring. They are super common and I bet it will fix your issue
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It takes average wheel speed from the 4 wheels via abs module and sends signal via a single wire to ecu.
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That table is only showing you the amount of fuel added when antilag active. The cut and retard will make it pop and bang. Be careful with antilag holding valves open. The fueling shouldn't change if the new pump can keep up with fuel requirements. I would run low speed for cruise and medium duty at light load
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Cooling reqs for > 300kw atw
in Engine Related
Posted
Scales radiator and well setup ducting. Water temp sits on 93 ish on 10+km rally stafes