RedLine

Issue was solved by replacing the alternator. Credit to them, the didn't charge for the sensors or the labour to do that since it didn't fix it. So it's back on the road with no CEL In other news, is anyone interested in buying a 2001 Rev-D?

Cheers for that - will give him a call next time I need something done on the Suby The guys who have got it at the moment found an alternator, and they're sure that's what the fault is.

I took it in on Saturday and the mechanic said the code was for the cam position sensor... so he replaced them yesterday and its still throwing the CEL. Apparently, now it's the alternator back-feeding into the ECU or something, so now they want to replace the alternator, but they don't know if that will fix it and can't find one. I'm getting concerned that they have no idea what they are doing and are just slapping parts on, hoping to clear the fault.

Thanks once again, Marky. I figured that would be the case, but figured I would post as a long-shot in case someone knew. Desperate times and all that [quote name='Marky said: whatever is wrong the car knows about it I find that strangely comforting

Update: I see the O2 sensor is quite a common problem, but I will need an OBD2 reader to confirm the code. Borrowing one from a mate next week to check. Any other suggestions still welcome.

So as you may have guessed from the title, I'm having some fun with my car. It's a 2001 Legacy B4 RSK BE5 Rev-D. I had an issue with engine pinging a couple of months ago, and have run a bit of octane boost since then, which seemed to fix the issues. But, on the commute in this morning, I was in 4th and braking as the traffic slowed. As we started moving again, I popped it down to 3rd, and as I released the clutch, it just started juddering (a bit like if you are in too high a gear, but I am sure I wasn't - would have been about 50ish). It actually felt like it was going to stall, and I noticed the check engine light. I didn't notice any noises other than the "wrong gear, moron" engine protest noise. So I shifted to 2nd I guess out of instinct, and there was just no power and the check engine light was on. The light clicked off, and power was there again, until the check engine light came back on and power was lost again... There was nowhere to pull over due to the highway upgrade happening in Welly, so I just babied it to town. It came right for a good 10 minutes, and I actually wondered if it was just a passing issue. But when I was driving in the carpark (low speed, lots of clutch) it started playing up again. So its now sitting parked, I'm at work and I know I have to get home Does anyone have any idea what it could be? I'm thinking it may be related to the ping that was happening before, but I really don't know. Are there any common problems that would be worth checking first? The thing that's making it even more difficult to understand is when the check engine light is on, the power is gone. I can't tell if it is the loss of power causing the check engine light, or if it is something quite minor that is clicking the check engine light on, putting it into limp mode or something... does it even have limp mode? Any advice would be great. I'm planning to "limp" it home early today to avoid the traffic. Hopefully she makes it

Yeah, I don't want to cheat, but if it would take bolt-cutters to get the shot, that seems a bit tough I'll definitely take a photo as close as I legally can, but its up to the community if that's good enough to count

Ahaha I'll give it a shot tonight. Pretty sure there's a gate in the way though

Dredging this thread up because it looks like something fun to do on the weekend Agreed - I know where it is, but I'm pretty sure it's private property. Any rules against that?

Ah, I didn't realize that was Marky! Sounds like a much better option than the dyno tune.

Yep, definitely want to get that looked at, along with pretty much everything that mechanic did to it. I'm going to see if I can get to the cambelt this weekend and match up the notches, but beyond that I don't really know what to look for. Might have to bribe someone with a 6-pack (maybe a 12)

Well, I spoke too soon. Its still pinging, but only with my foot flat. It's not doing it at 3/4 throttle anymore, and the idle is MUCH smoother than it has ever been, which is making me think that the minor octane boost from the Nulon stuff that I put through it is helping, but not enough. Definitely considering an ECU tune now to get it optimized for BP98. Speed Tech Motorsport have quoted me $1495 which includes a full dyno tune, so if Marky has a way to fix it and its less than that, I'm all ears

Cheers, loner. I've decided to try the cheaper options first and bought a bottle of this octane booster / injector cleaner and emptied it into the fuel tank and took it for a long drive. Could just be my optimism and wishful thinking, but it seems smoother already. Didn't get too many chances to hit boost, but when I did, there was no dreaded ping! There was another noise it has always made at idle as well that I assumed was normal, and its not doing that anymore. Thanks again for everyone's suggestions and help with this. Will update again if the pinging comes back or if this fixes it longer term.

One last question... The time that this issue started was shortly after I got the cambelt done by (in hindsight) a muppet garage (link to thread). Is it possible that they could have gotten the timing wrong on the belt when they replaced it? I mean, if they had it off by a tooth, would it advance the timing just enough to make it ping? Seems unlikely, but after my dealings with them, I wouldn't just assume they got it right. Anyone had this happen to them? Is it even possible that the engine would still run, but just with the wrong timing?

Thanks Marky, appreciate your help once again!

That's it... not as loud, but that's definitely the noise when he accelerates at 0:22. Soo I guess it makes it pretty urgent that I re-flash the ECU now. It is a Japanese import, so probably designed to run on 100 or something. Would putting an octane booster in it for now (and not hoofing it) be a good idea until I can get the ECU done? I always run it on BP98.

Thanks for the link! I'll definitely look into that. I don't think its ever been tuned, as it has a very noticeable VOD.

Yep, its only when I have my foot flat, or near flat. I really haven't explained the noise very well... It is pretty erratic though. I meant it stops when I ease off the throttle. The noise is only there when I am accelerating hard. The flatter I have my foot, the worse the noise is. Come to think of it, I don't recall it at higher revs... I'll give it a punt through the full rev range tonight in 2nd and report back, hopefully with an audio clip. Thanks for your help.

Definitely more like gravel on tin, with a bit of scraping thrown in.

Hey all, quick background about my car before I get into in guts of my question... its a 2001 Rev-D BE5 Legacy B4 RSK with around 187,000kms, only mods are a bigger rear muffler and tailpipe (done by previous owner), plus the Hose10 Mod (done by me, with a lot of help from members here). For the past few months, I've started noticing something a bit odd. When the car is under significant acceleration (ie - after downshifting to overtake or if I'm pushing it from 0 to 100 quite quickly), I've noticed this metallic sort-of... graunching noise. It's a bit tricky to describe, but it sounds like metal on metal, and is somewhere between scraping and rattling. It comes right when I ease off the accelerator, and doesn't happen under normal acceleration (or I can't hear it!). I can generally only hear it with the window down, but it seems to get louder the harder I push it. At the risk of stating the obvious, it's definitely coming from under the bonnet. My first thought was a turbo on its way out, given that it seems to be related to boost. So I've done some Googling around, and have found quite a few different suggestions, including not enough oil (seemed fine when I checked the dipstick yesterday) or a loose valve (I really hope not). I don't have a full service history for the car, so I don't know if the turbos have had anything done to them. I had it serviced about 6 months ago, where the mechanic did the rocker cover gaskets and cambelt. It's running Fuchs 5W30. Anyone here experienced something similar, or have any ideas what it might be? I'm a noob at mechanical stuff, so I hope this isn't a stupid question... Cheers!

Ok, I'll accept the Muppet award I missed the T that came off hose 10... Hose 10 must have slipped off the primary intake T when I did it, and it was "hidden" under the big hose that goes to the top of the BOV... so hose 10 to solenoid was blocked, and hose 10 to the primary was just open. I've fixed it now, and its definitely driving better. I have my old boost pressure back (and then some) which is awesome. Definitely much quicker spooling times. Here's a quick and nasty diagram of what I think I did wrong, just for reference and if any other newbies are confused. Also, mine is definitely a Rev D: BE5D48D Thanks for your help guys, very much appreciated!

Thanks - I'll take a look now. I didn't see any T's in hose 10 to take it back to the turbo - it just seems to be a hose that goes from the solenoid to (previously) the BOV tee. Can confirm it was hose 10... it says on it haha. I clearly wasn't paying enough attention yesterday... Welp, good to know I have a rev-d at least!

Hmm, mine is a 2001, so it can't be Rev D can it? Ok, I'm going to un-bung the hose I took off now, as it sounds like hose 10... Hope I haven't done any damage So is there any benefit in just un-bunging it and leaving it disconnected (so that there is a straight hose from the BOV to mani, but hose 10 can breathe), or should it be connected back to the T? Cheers for your help.

Wait... there's two of them? The one I removed and bunged is the one with the red arrow pointing to it in my post last weekend... If I follow it, it runs parallel to another hose of similar gauge, past the battery, then disappears behind the fusebox... worried I'll stuff my car now There aren't any other hoses being teed off between my BOV and intake mani.

Done my first mod Thanks for your help Marky. The primary definitely spools much more quickly, and I am noticing when I take my foot off the accelerator, the boost drops far quicker. I'm guessing that can only be a good thing mechanically. The only drawbacks I am noticing is that neither turbo will spool above 7-8PSI now, where I was getting more like 10 before. Also the VOD seems more noticeable. Not sure if that's because of the lower boost levels or what. Is that what others are experiencing? I'm going to have a poke around for any leaks tomorrow anyway. Either way, its so much more responsive and accelerates much more quickly, so even if I can't lift the PSI, I'd still keep it