Westy177
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Posts posted by Westy177
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13 minutes ago, pl0x said:
I've had 2 cars tuned with vf22 and yellows and neither run out of injector, both 220-230wkw range.
If you are stuck on the factory top feed idea then yea, id try get factory top feed rails and make an adapter to bolt them to the phase 1 manifold. Wouldn't you also need collars for the phase 1 manifold or similar due to the different injector sizes.
That's reassuring at least. Man v3/4 is a pain haha
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Both of you guys have recommended phase 2 injectors to me Ihave phase 1 rails pretty sure they dont fit?
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10 hours ago, ginganinja said:
Depends how much power you want but i have seen some builds close to 300kw running big side feeds.
There are 650cc JECS side feeds on TM for a good price that would save a lot if hassle than going top feed.
The only way to make radium kit work is to buy the upgraded rails that suit the late model v8+ sti's that are top feed from factory. And then use those rails with the mounting hardware from the v1-6 conversion kit. This is basically merging two of the products they do. I have a top feed conversion kit for sale as i am in the same boat, but i didnt find out that oem top feeds don't fit until the kit arrived here.
Awesome kit for big hp build though
I'll look into those jecs injectors. I hate side feeds because there a pain to fit and I always break them Haha.
24 minutes ago, pl0x said:I would have thought yellow side feeds will support more than what a vf30 can flow. So unless you are future proofing, stick with yellows.
These should fit, sell the other 2 and your pinks. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/listing-1745471863.htm?rsqid=79f83d2abe744097ba1e5dd1a017b24d
Um I already have flowed and cleaned by dtech yellows in my car. I've heard mixed stories about stock yellows not really willing to find out if the max out on a vf30 on the dyno. Plus I have these pinks so future proofing.
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Hey guys picked up a set of v7 sti pink injectors off a rev d gtb at pick a part the other day as a budget fuel injector upgrade for my RS-B.
Since cars a version 3/4 I've heard the manifold on these is unique to the 1/2 5/6. frustrating since all the kits are only for 1/2 and 5/6 or its usdm stuff.
I emailed radium engineering about there set but said they will not fit oem injectors, not really interested in going with id1000's since im still on a vf30 nothing special.
What have you guys done or even better any links to a fuel rail kit or adapter etc I could run that will work?
Any advice or wisdom on the different version and manifolds would be awesome as well.Cheers guys.
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Wasn't too sure if this falls under Engine or electrical?
Anyway been having a very odd intermittent CEL issue lately, cars a 1998 Gen 2 legacy RSB Single turbo conversion.... note I converted it a long time ago and has been mint so far...
Basically driving down the road CEL turns on then it dissapears when i put the car in neutral this is the only way to clear it, I have narrowed the cause down to occasionally when i downshift and rpm falls below 2k and when I accelerate hard out of a turn from lowish rpm.
I ran the codes using the black plugs and all I got was 24 so IAC which is very odd as this has been cleaned less than 1000ks ago.
Now in the name of rnd I got this cel while going for a spirited drive with my flatmates and noticed I can pull straight through all the way to redline (well 7k dont take it past that ever) and it has no effect on boost etc however between 3-3.5k it has a massive deadspot, last time i got 24 im 100% sure I was in limp mode 4.5k cut etc.
Now I could go to subaru when they open and buy a brand new iacv but I'm just not 100% sold on this being the issue, wondering if anyones had similar issues Ive read through other forums with no sort of quantifiable answer.
Cheers.
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On 12/18/2017 at 1:25 PM, Joker said:
not 35 not 25 probably not even 20 hahah
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4 minutes ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:
Got to the panel beaters just as they were closing up.
Grabbed the car and headed home. Door not closed light on dash, interior light going. Hmmm ok.
Got her home. List as follows:
Bumper not blended into surrounding panels.
Boot not blended
Wings (both upper and lower) not painted or blended.
One of my (nearly new) gas struts has been replaced with an old one that's covered in grease
Mudflaps over tightened, forcing the spacer through the flap.
Sti and impreza badges not reinstalled.
Boot latch adjusted to hold the boot closed and the door open light off.
This, on top of the unprofessional and rude attitude of the management staff and the fact that a 3 day repair took 7.
Going to be ringing insurance company tomorrow.
Thats appalling!!!
I work with panel shops as a auto glazier and the attitude some of them has is disgusting. Get your insurance to kick there arse thats bloody slack.
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4 new tires on the rs and service 😁
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got this old beast running again!
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Finished putting my bf5 manifold back together soldered on new tps and water temp plugs as old ones exploded from being brittle. had the day off so ran around hamilton grabbing all nessasary gaskets and hoses to get this project out the door. also painted the ac bracket and the factory heatshield vht high heat black.
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So up until recently my daily driver was a 1991 BF5 legacy brighton, she was a sohc na automatic slow as hell and not the most inspiring drivers car however it was a bloody good car. I made a stupid decision and bought a honda god forbid integra vtec it was full of issues and a bit of a stuff up on my part not a good buy. Shortly after I sold the wagon, from the moment it drove off I regretted the decision, from the point I vowed to own a turbo model off the same car I had before.
After whinging on facebook about missing my beloved wagon a friend of mine messaged me about a Series 1 (big plus for me) Gt he had that needed a new home, it was cheap and very tidy drawback being no wof no reg auto and something off with the engine a misfire, lack of power.
Unlike the integra this was a car I was determined to have so i got it for a nice deal arrived at my house with a v3 sti gearbox in the boot and all the bits I'd need to manual it.
So it was looking to be a manual conversion and diagnose the engine project, I mucked around with changing spark plugs etc as it had 1.1 gap plugs in it haha. The engine was not looking to e running any better I got told its likely a burnt exhaust valve.
Immediately I pulled the engine and started the manual conversion.
Engine was sent away to be fixed the burnt exhaust valve theory was 100% correct and the only issue the shortblock is perfect even after 207,000ks.
V3 wrx heads were fitted as an upgrade over the dated GT HLA heads.
While then engine was away I cracked on with the manual bits, cluster swap to manual, auto box removed driveshaft and all related bits.
Manual box back in manual gt driveshaft, pedalboxes and clutch cylinders.
As it sits manual swap stuff is 90% done and the engine just needs some gaskets and misc replacement parts.
Unfortunately I didn't take much photos during this and I also formatted my phone so lost alot of photos. But I do have some for now I will just post photos showcasing the car, I will upload more over the next couple days as I finish it up.
The main goal of this project is to build my perfect daily drive a subaru wagon with power but stock reliability while preserving the immaculate factory car that it is. Loud exhaust is a must for me so the factory nana pipe is getting binned but aside from that stocko.
been sitting a while but bone stock unmolested engine bay!
Gt and the banana RS lurking in the background
gt and the flatmates R33
pristine interior
Aesthetic shot of the series 1 garnish
thats all for now more to come in the coming week.
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On 15/09/2017 at 10:21 AM, AdamOst said:
The only engine ive nuked is also the only engine that ive run on synthetic oil
, my STI. My 3 tracked mx5s all run generic castrol mineral oil without issue so far at least. Mechanic just said change it regularly and itll be fine, so i just put fresh stuff in every 2 or 3 events.
my logic, i change mine 500-1000ks but ive only done 2100ks on the engine so ill switch to synthetic next oil change as rings have set.
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I run 10w40 penrite mineral 5l on my forged rs, change it every 1000ks lmao because it gets absoutely thrashed the rare occasion it leaves the shed. plus when you drop 10k+ into a car you get paranoid.
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I've had a 1kz surf turn his lights off to pass me on the cambridge expressway. im no saint though because then i started playing with him rolling into boost in 5th haha. on the most part my legacy glides miles below the radar police and other modified car owners alike.
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1000km run in oil,filter and coolant change. get to properly drive my car now 😁
http://i.imgur.com/R43Jj7z.jpg
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98' RSB Single Turbo, Forged
1991 Brighton AWD done less than 120,000ks pretty rare sight on the old bc/bf shape
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Banana boat in kanji bit of a inside joke with my old tech mates haha
Edit: No CS logo my bad haha
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BananaBoatRSB
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I'll do that right now
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1998 BD5 ej20r RS-B
Battery Idle test: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/how-idle-re-learn-after-battery-disconnect-154161/
Of course double checked them, first time it threw 44 a wire had disconnected but now they are soldered in tightly.
9-10psi
I had it in test mode and the code was pulsing ( if that's what you meant)
I've left the car with the battery disconnected overnight. My only lead is that the '75' ecu I'm using want's a 3 port solenoid if that's an actual error.
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Ive just finished my single turbo conversion.
When I started it up for the first time the first CEL it threw at me was 24 and 44.
I fixed 24 with the 'battery idle test'
And 44 was caused by a ecu wire popping out of its crimp, so i soldered it back up.
Started the car up and no cel greatest feeling of my life no joke
, drove around for hours open downpipe great fun 
I decided to go out later on started her up and cel again
this time it was just 44.I changed the boost control solenoid with the primary turbo guard one to see if the BBoD one was faulty. Put more solder on the joins, started her up again and 44 again.
Reset the ecu 44 again.
I'm at a loss I have no idea how to solve this, surely I'm not the only one with this issue?
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Fitting the manifold will give you issues with the tps. There are work arounds but they are not really worth the hassle just stick with stock manifold.
Coild pack mod is easy
each coil on plug has 2 wires. 1 sensor wire and 1 power wire.
Join/solder the 2 front cylinder sensor wires together and send them to one sensor wire on the new coil pack
Join/solder the 2 rear cylinder sensor wires together and send them to one sensor wire on the new coil pack
Join/solder the power wires for each coil to the power wire on the coil pack
Secure coil pack in engine bay
make sure to also
Preserve you're current coils wiring setup by going to pickapart and cut some wire and end plugs off some old coil packs.
Grab an end plug for the new coil pack with wires attached to make the easier to join to while you're getting the above
Done. Super easy mod
The throttle position sensor plug? I got that in easy just copied the loom setup.
So I'm getting the wires from the packs that are on the head and soldering the wires into the ignitor?
I'd rather use the single turbo manifold the twin turbo one is alot different.
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Only 10 bucks? right im getting a soldering iron.
I hear their more reliable, plus I have the complete manifold so I'd like to do it.
, my STI. My 3 tracked mx5s all run generic castrol mineral oil without issue so far at least. Mechanic just said change it regularly and itll be fine, so i just put fresh stuff in every 2 or 3 events.
this time it was just 44.
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
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Yes! Cheers for the tag mate