Sancho

Im sure we could just con our friends into joining us... I've got some rally tyres and S*** we could use for the display... We need a Subaru rally car tbh...

looked at it and went "ehh" and started week two of not driving it.

Yes... I need a tune and so does someone else I know down here

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7y09tx6usqwn7wd/AACLCoZHQXFUqFxEs3Ak94Qwa?dl=0 V1-2 manual there.... might have copied the later ones... was in process of downloading all the manuals from a website..

I'll let you know when I find someone to tune it better than I have on the road lol.

Where is the best palce (other than the stock location) to fit a temporary knock sensor? for knock listening. last time I had a dyno run the guy put it on the Intake Manifold, which i'm sure could be improved upon. Is there a decent spot everyone uses on an EJ20? or just anywhere on the block

I did, Yellow Injectors/w Phase adaptors, paralell rails, adjustable FPR, DW200 fuel pump, IAT, G4+, Sill running stock Boost Solenoid and MAP, but the stock MAP is only good for 17-18PSI so I'd reccomend a 3Bar one. 3" downpipe and those weird xforce headers.

Have a look on the OSCC page now for the 3 mile photos... don't think many photographers braved it but there's a few cell snaps of the snow at the top... nothing beats doing 160 over the finish into massive snowflakes haha... and sadly all my Gopro Did was "SD ERR" after bout 20 sec of video, i'm so annoyed at it. @subanoodle, it's a GoPro Hero4 BE, using a adhesive mount, sadly was in the waterproof enclosure so sound is lacking! thanks!

attempted to do skiddies, only one minor screw up... fun day, 20sec improvement over last year. still need more seat time!! [video=youtube;w-t5pwTKrJ0]

That's good to know. Most likely won't be my last IAT install so your advice is definitely appreciated.

Splitter is a good 20mm away. I thought it had to be in the airstream rather than off to one side. Are there any particular models those GM sensors are in? We don't have a very good pick a part type place anymore... Seem To just charge and charge more and pretty much everything is a mess.... And anything good they keep for themselves. I have a larger top mount I want to install at some point anyway so... I actually had no idea what I was doing when installing this. I should have put it underneath in the same spot actually....

Thanks, my assumption is the link IAT sensor is quite small hopefully will arrive soon!

V1/2 WRX upgrading to a Link G4( From a plink) , got an IAT sensor, but where do I put it?! I was just gonna chuck it in about where the MAF would go, but in the manual it suggests after the intercooler?! Wouldn't it be boost air then? Haha where's everyone put theirs?

also keen.

done a subaru clutch in the driveway without a jack, just pulled engine, fitted clutch and reinstalled engine.

finally got around to fitting paralell fuel rails, after the set i purchased for very little on a shady facebook deal came with Carb hose and needed to be replaced lol... oh well the Tomei Type S FPR was worth the price I paid at least....

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7y09tx6usqwn7wd/AACLCoZHQXFUqFxEs3Ak94Qwa?dl=0

Mates is on 5th June if any other dunedin guys show up that'll be a bonus! https://www.facebook.com/events/276141862730173/

made the horiest sump/exhaust protector plate to go with my hori headers, because all my wrap had gotten disgusting.

I'm also new.. haha mine is a Laptop one also. the issue you have there is all the MAP tables are absolute values, so always add 100kpa. so what you've done by dropping it to 110kpa = 0.10bar of boost. hahat. because atmosphere = 100kpa, so 100kpa of boost = 200kpa on the map sensor. the stock sensor maxes out at around 18psi anyway (manual says 18psi or there about) definately read the manual, it's good. Possumlink can't use widebands at all, but my innovate has narrowband sim... but haven't worked it out as all it did was automagically make everything super rich... I also set my knock threshold value down to make it more sensitive, but i've heard that the knock control isn't very good on it as it detects things that it shouldnt. (getting it professionally tuned at some point) Can show you my map that i've made just by roadtuning by being careful with a wideband.. actually it turns out you can just make a text file with all the information, here's a pastebin for anyone to read. car is v2wrx w/ tdo5, yellow injectors.. sta aftermarket pistons which we assume are around 8.5:1 cr, dw200 fuel pump, stock fpr, 3" downpipe, china almost equal headers. http://pastebin.com/JPB3JViD (I just do a pull and get a mate to watch the AFR's.)

my Exedy Clutch kit came with a spigot and release bearing. (I think the shop threw in the spigot for free when they surfaced my flywheel) I just got it all from the local clutch/brake shop (Sims)

^ You wouldn't be interested in looking at my possumlink tune? I can't get my idle particularly smooth sometimes and not having much luck with the knock control. I already have a wideband so it makes it quite easy to get accurate fuel results haha.

the pnp link is gonna pretty much have the same wiring pinout as the standard car. I've never seen a pinout from link themselves.

PCLink v2.5 is the only one that works with G1 Links (like Possumlinks) the ECU will need WRXRoadR or WRXRoadQ (also RS instead of WRX is around) and you will need a Serial Link. I have been using a modern laptop with a USB-Serial Adaptor with no issues whatsoever.. (Prolific Rev D work) also this Belkin one i had laying around worked too. I do not reccomend you attempt to tune your car yourself unless you have a Wideband and some knowledge of how Air Fuels and Ignition timing works. the Possumlink is fairly, fairly slow vs anything new. It's boost control is a bit ****, and the knock control is also a bit ****. they also have no compensation, and no wideband supoort so you just have to watch the wideband and make adjustments that way.