JGM
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Posts posted by JGM
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1 hour ago, Bernhard Mantinger said:
need some support for my lowering project.
Just drop it on its guts 😅
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16 hours ago, ACE3.0R said:
@JGM you guys heading to flat nats Puke on Sat 19? Anyone keen to meet for drive down
Nah dude, no longer have the old girl...
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Nice work behind the lens mate @ACE3.0R
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On 8/09/2019 at 11:48 AM, calibre said:
what year was your one?
NZ new 2008 BP9
On 8/09/2019 at 11:48 AM, calibre said:Mine has regular looking bulbs at top but led looking stop bulbs
Like these?
On 8/09/2019 at 11:48 AM, calibre said:not sure if these are factory or the last owner changed them?.
Not factory so been switched at some point in its life...
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1 hour ago, ScoobyToo said:
Applied model: BP9
1 hour ago, ScoobyToo said:has a big sunroof and wash jets on the headlights.
Not uncommon on the JDM models.
1 hour ago, ScoobyToo said:It's a B4
B4 are sedans only...
Colour: Grey
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On 28/08/2019 at 1:57 PM, calibre said:
applys to the 06+.
Any BP towbar will work, same chassis from 03-09.
On 3/09/2019 at 1:35 PM, calibre said:if you have LED tailights I believe it causes issues.
This is the case with the vehicles tail lights, unsure whether the same applies to trailer LED tails...
I had a factory fitted towbar on my old wagon, didn't appear to have any flash wiring associated. Might be best to push on and deal with the issue should it arise instead of resolving an issue which may or may not exist.
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23 hours ago, ambach said:
Based on what has been said above I will just have to get a guard roll to fix the scraping problem?
As previously mentioned, the wheel offset is reasonably low and is what's causing the rub on the inside of your outer rear quarters.
It's the best place to start, failing that there are some other options but would be good to avoid if possible as it sounds like you just want to remedy the issue and are not intentionally modifying.
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On 17/07/2019 at 11:49 PM, REDMANE said:
From what I understand you can raise a car 50mm using Spacer's without needing to cert it
Then there's the option of raising the suspension/ using Forrester suspension to really Jack the Legacy up which would require Certing something like the link below:
Speaking from my experience with 4x4s here;
Anything regardless of the overall lift size by way of spacer requires a certification...
Anything with increased ground clearance up to 50mm by way of spring lift (ie. lift springs on factory or replacement struts) does not require a certification.
If you're going to do it, go for a spring lift - far far safer...
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On 10/05/2019 at 8:27 PM, iludez said:
Tyres are 235/45/18s re003s.
FYI, you’ll burn through RE003s in a year or less if you don’t correct the camber, speaking from experience here 😅
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1 hour ago, iludez said:
Hey man any idea on how much lower the lgt springs will put the car down? I'm on 18s also
Ughhh I can't remember exactly 😅 you'll be pleased to know that the Legacy struts are 40mm shorter than the OB, good drop there without even considering the springs!
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@ride Subtech are excellent, have used them for all my cars as I know the owner personally.
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Legacy & Outback suspension is interchangeable yes.
You will need to either a) cut the OB bumpstops or b) source some Legacy ones from a wrecker (I've actually seen them brand new on TM too) as even a moderate drop will cause clearance issues there...
Depending on how long you want your tyres to last, I'd recommend getting some adjustable rear camber arms (upper control arms) to correct the camber as even a set of Legacy struts will set you at approx. negative 1.5 degrees.
Other than that you'll be away laughing.
I still miss mine, handled so bloody well with all the suspension upgrades I'd done. Goodluck!
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My mechanic (Subtech Performance Services) uses Zic, never questioned his judgement nor had any issues
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5 hours ago, A_J_T said:
This better be for what I think it is... and not you bailing out like the rest of them
Lol
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1 hour ago, WellsNZ said:
Does that adapter get placed into the middle of the equation e.g I place the current connection into the adapter, the other end of the adapter into the head unit and then the 3.5 splits out?
Sorry dude, that's as far as my knowledge level goes - never had one of these factory auxiliaries, always had a Parrot bluetooth system...
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1 hour ago, WellsNZ said:
Is getting behind the head unit pretty straightforward?
Yes, pull off trim in front of gear stick, followed by side panels. This will reveal 3? screws either side of the unit which when out will allow the whole unit to be removed. As per the video @Sphinx posted...
1 hour ago, Sphinx said:replacing the unit
I wouldn't bother replacing, his Kenwood unit has the auxiliary button and therefore should have the auxiliary input in the back. Confirm the input is there and then buy the auxiliary input adapter that I posted from Trade Me, just like that Bob's your Uncle.
2 minutes ago, WellsNZ said:Operation practice run removing the head unit a great success, except for one screw that has disappeared into the void, now just need to figure out how to run the aux cord out to somewhere accessible.
Confirm the auxiliary input is there while you have the unit out and before buying the adapter...
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Welcome,
What model are we talking here? Legacy BP?
You can buy an adapter which plugs into the back of the unit which enables the auxiliary ability. Similar to, if not exactly the one in the link below...
Good luck!
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5 hours ago, iludez said:
It's black and has f3-27 written on it, can't see any branding on it.
I used my caliper tool and it's definitely 27mm.
It's nice buying a car and finding a bunch of goodies on it.1 hour ago, boon said:I would even consider downsizing that, a bar that enormous is probably doing bad things for your handling in all but the most extreme situations.
As you say, nice when you find tasty unexpected aftermarket parts though.
1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:Agree with Boon
It’s a crazy thick bar. Is there something equally thick on the front to match? A Cusco or Whiteline one in their hardest setting at 21/20mm is more than enough at unless you wanna be hella stance-y with some 15k spring rate coilovers.
Perhaps instead of a 20/21mm solid bar, whatever the brand/company is decided a massive diameter (27mm) hollow bar would be the go...? Just a thought...
@iludez can you post a photo please? I'd like to see how out of proportion it looks mounted to the car.
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1 hour ago, A_J_T said:
To high to high
1 hour ago, blackseb said:Would also love to get some advise from you guys on coilovers - which are best and what is required & recommended to make them work to a practical low - and be certifiable.
Lil self thread plug here
have my D2s for sale, both @ADIKT and I have run them in our Outbacks. I think they're good quality, similar to that of BC Racing I'd imagine...
@blackseb you could buy all my suspension components if you wanted (minus the bracing and camber arms)! If you want that low life you'll need camber arms and smaller bumpstops. Read back through this read and @A_J_T's build thread, everything you need to know is in these two threads.
Seeing someone else just starting out is making me feel like a grandad of this lowered Outback stuff
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52 minutes ago, A_J_T said:
see I just got greedy, 225/40 seems to be the goods. any plans for your wagon mate? I'm getting the feeling alot of the lowered Outback boys are thinking of moving to something new... myself included
After two years, I want my money out
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1 hour ago, A_J_T said:
235/40R18 tyre.
225/40 would be it I reckon, although good for comfort my 225/45s were to tall on my 18x8.5s
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Hey @Inked,
(This comment is meant in the nicest way possible, the current punctuation is driving me up the wall #grammernazi
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There isn't any need to have the apostrophes in 'Boxers' or 'Beverages' within the title of this thread...
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have my D2s for sale, both 
).
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Recommended workshops in Auckland?
in Auckland/Northland
Posted
Would recommend Subtech in Penrose.
Bit late to the party, is this seriously the last post in the Auckland thread... Jeez