eZ_Harry

4 Quarts ended up being slightly too much

Sorry, I should have said "change" transmission fluid. Old stuff out, new stuff in.

Will I need 4 or 5 quarts to change oil in a 6 Speed V8 STi Transmission? Cheers

Car: 2002 Version 8 STi 6MTProblem: It can be difficult to shift into first and reverse gear (no other gears are affected). If the car is even slightly rolling, there is no difficulty shifting into first or reverse gear. When I first start driving the car (engine is cold) it is relatively easy to get into gear, but after about 20 minutes of driving it gets much more difficult. At it worst a fair amount of force can be required to shift into gear.Double clutching can help reduce the difficulty. Shifting into first while the car is coming to a stop completely eliminates the problem. If I am at a stop, shifting into second and then straight into first completely eliminates the problem.Attempted Solution: To me this sounds like an issue of the clutch not fully disengaging from the flywheel. I have attempted to fix this by replacing and bleeding the clutch master and the slave cylinder. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to have resolved the issue.Side note, I recently had the engine rebuilt and the mechanic said the clutch looked about half worn, so I opted not to replace it.Could anybody explain potential causes for this problem? I'm confused as to why it only happens in certain circumstances such as from a stop, worse when heated etc.. The only heat sensitive part I could think of is there is still air in the clutch hydraulic system and that is expanding when the car warms... but i just bled the system.

Yeah I've been taking a look at them, not too badly priced. It is more a matter of building the courage to do it, rather than having a do it. I've only done the basics of mechanical work, various gaskets, tie rods, suspension etc. So this seems like it would be quite a big jump... well actually pulling it doesn't seem to bad, rather putting it back in is where I'd expect to get really challenged

Yep I was beginning to think the same thing, now I need to figure out how to pull a motor myself!

UPDATE: I have done a compression test on the engine (It is the first time I have done a compression test and I did it using a new tool, it wasn’t some cheap piece of s*** so I hope the results are accurate) Cylinders: 1: 125psi 2: 0psi (Completely dead, needle didn’t move at all) 3: 135psi 4: 115psi That means that between cylinder 4 and cylinder 1, there is a 16% difference. Just outside the acceptable range. I did this on a cold engine and didn’t squirt any oil in the cylinders. Throttle was wide open. Engine was full of fresh oil, and none was leaking. The most alarming number from the results is that we got ZERO compression in cylinder 2. Initially thought that we hadn’t put the tool in correctly, but we tried a few times and just couldn’t get anything out of it. I find this quite confusing as given what I had discovered previously I figured that it would be a bad piston ring, but that surely wouldn’t be capable of causing ZERO compression. Perhaps there is a broken valve, but how could that have caused enough pressure in the crankcase to spray oil out the dipstick? This is the original post below incase you'd like to read it! HiI recently purchased a JDM Version 8 WRX STi with a supposedly “blown motor”, managed to get it for a really good price and knew it would be a great project which would really stretch my skillset.. win win. I have a fair bit of experience doing general maintenance and mods to cars, but this is a whole different league for me.I didn’t get a very clear description of what happened from the previous owner, what he did tell me was that he was driving the car under boost and then something gave up. He pulled over, and found that there was engine oil sprayed all over the battery side of the engine (not that much made it to the intake side). Lots of white smoke from all the oil and it apparently started to develop a slight ticking sound. He has a video from when it happened, personally I can’t hear any unusual ticking noise, I suspect he may have just been hearing the classic Subaru ticking you get on these engines. It’s been about two weeks since that happened and as of yesterday I have the car sitting in my driveway. I’ve begun the process of diagnosing the issue, here is what I have figured out so far. The engine isn’t seized and turns over well, sounds completely normal when it is cranking IMO. Granted I have only briefly turned it over as I didn’t think it was a good idea to have it cranking with such a small amount of oil left in the engine. Here is a link to a video of it cranking https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOXua_4Q3qySSy59KMGdvUa2BkdFkU5YArAsZ2RyCWZB3pT8efwejMTNMQ2vyqF0g/photo/AF1QipNEVVmnjX2GksClrRuIxwCI1BJJG_kyD4DKPwOd?key=OW52QWZydGFxQ2w3MnpaX2NUZ2ZxT0w4c3ZtZDFR I have fully drained the remaining engine oil, there was about 2.5L left. There is no coolant mixed into the oil. I cannot see any glimmering or signs of metal having made it into the oil. Not sure what type of oil was in the car or how long ago it was changed, but it is quite thick and doesn’t smell very good, it kind of has a fishy odour. The coolant system is still full, it seems to be completely intact and has no oil mixed in it. I’ve removed the top mount intercooler, there was a SOLID amount of oil inside this. Not a healthy amount at all, it was enough that it poured out onto the block. This photo just shows the left over in the intake plenum. There is also oil a reasonable amount of oil in the cold side of the turbo (possible turbo seal? But doesn’t explain how all the oil sprayed into the engine bay). No oil found in the air filter. Cannot see any holes or damage in the block Cannot see any damage to piping or lines around the engine (this is really leaving me stumped as to how so much oil made it out of the engine) I think the next step is to run a compression test, hopefully this tells me if something is seriously wrong inside the block.If anybody has any ideas on what is wrong with this engine or suggestions on next steps for diagnosing the problem, then I would greatly appreciate any advice.Cheers!

What could have caused 2 litres of oil to come out the dipstick?

HiI recently purchased a JDM Version 8 WRX STi with a supposedly “blown motor”, managed to get it for a really good price and knew it would be a great project which would really stretch my skillset.. win win. I have a fair bit of experience doing general maintenance and mods to cars, but this is a whole different league for me.I didn’t get a very clear description of what happened from the previous owner, what he did tell me was that he was driving the car under boost and then something gave up. He pulled over, and found that there was engine oil sprayed all over the battery side of the engine (not that much made it to the intake side). Lots of white smoke from all the oil and it apparently started to develop a slight ticking sound. He has a video from when it happened, personally I can’t hear any unusual ticking noise, I suspect he may have just been hearing the classic Subaru ticking you get on these engines. It’s been about two weeks since that happened and as of yesterday I have the car sitting in my driveway. I’ve begun the process of diagnosing the issue, here is what I have figured out so far. The engine isn’t seized and turns over well, sounds completely normal when it is cranking IMO. Granted I have only briefly turned it over as I didn’t think it was a good idea to have it cranking with such a small amount of oil left in the engine. Here is a link to a video of it cranking https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOXua_4Q3qySSy59KMGdvUa2BkdFkU5YArAsZ2RyCWZB3pT8efwejMTNMQ2vyqF0g/photo/AF1QipNEVVmnjX2GksClrRuIxwCI1BJJG_kyD4DKPwOd?key=OW52QWZydGFxQ2w3MnpaX2NUZ2ZxT0w4c3ZtZDFR I have fully drained the remaining engine oil, there was about 2.5L left. There is no coolant mixed into the oil. I cannot see any glimmering or signs of metal having made it into the oil. Not sure what type of oil was in the car or how long ago it was changed, but it is quite thick and doesn’t smell very good, it kind of has a fishy odour. The coolant system is still full, it seems to be completely intact and has no oil mixed in it. I’ve removed the top mount intercooler, there was a SOLID amount of oil inside this. Not a healthy amount at all, it was enough that it poured out onto the block. This photo just shows the left over in the intake plenum. There is also oil a reasonable amount of oil in the cold side of the turbo (possible turbo seal? But doesn’t explain how all the oil sprayed into the engine bay). No oil found in the air filter. Cannot see any holes or damage in the block Cannot see any damage to piping or lines around the engine (this is really leaving me stumped as to how so much oil made it out of the engine) I think the next step is to run a compression test, hopefully this tells me if something is seriously wrong inside the block.If anybody has any ideas on what is wrong with this engine or suggestions on next steps for diagnosing the problem, then I would greatly appreciate any advice.Cheers!

Sure... lengthwise they should move like a bellow. But do you also expect movement width wise? I've read that some steering racks provide air to the boots for exactly this reason

Hi, Just installed a new steering boot onto a V7 STi. Before re-installing the outer tie rod, I thought I'd check the boot was working properly, so I turned the wheel to full lock both ways. I've noticed that the boot seems to deflate (collapse in on itself) a bit more than I feel comfortable with. At full extension the top part of the boot collapses in with a big dent. Should there be some sort of breather port which prevents this from happening, or is it normal? I feel like it would rip the boot if I left it like that for too long Cheers

I just did a partsouq order and unfortunately in the days following I have rounded and broken some bolts and nuts. I tried calling winger, but they don't have any in stock and as usual the price to import was insane. I'll order from Japan if I have to, but want to avoid it due to shipping time and cost. Car is a 2000 V7 STi I need both of the lower bolts and nuts for one of the front struts, and two new bolts for one of my rear brembo callipers (they both snapped). These are the part numbers 20540AA090, 20540AA100, 901120102, 20550AA010 Does anybody know where I can get ahold of these? Strong for Subaru isn't looking likely at this point, starting to seem like the car might be spending even longer on its stands Cheers

@Loren Well that is a bit embarrassing but clears it up, can 100% confirm for anybody else who comes across this problem, they are not cross compatible.

@Loren @boon I pulled the existing inner tie rod out, visually it matches to the FE, but the thread measured 16mm.. weird. In saying that, I don't really see any reason why either AE or FE wouldn't also fit. The hole on the rack which you screw the ball joint into is just an empty cavity behind it, so if the thread was slightly longer I wouldn't see why that would be a problem. And the longer thread on the side which connects to the outer tie rod wouldn't be a problem either as it would just allow you to make a more drastic change to the alignment. I'm almost tempted to buy the AE just to find out if it fits...

To back that up, according to jp-carparts the rack assembly gear box was changed at the same time as the inner tie rod. So very possibly requires a different thread size https://jp-carparts.com/subaru/partlist.php?maker=subaru&car_baseid=F14003&type=G11&cartype=005&fig_id=347 Can confirm here, search part code 34116

@Loren @boon I just spoke to a guy from Strong For Subaru, he said that the thread on one of them is 14mm and other is 16mm. If thats the case, it would pretty much guarantee one wouldn't fit right? I guess the side that connects to the outer tie rod end would fit, but the ball joint side wouldn't fit In saying that, I don't have much experience with any of this and happy to be proven wrong

I'm trying to source a genuine inner tie rod for a V7 STI Sedan. The car came off the production line really early, first registered in December 2000, which I believe makes a difference to what part you need. I'm pretty confident the correct part number is 34160FE00, which Partsouq unfortunately doesn't have in stock (I'm doing a bulk order from there, so would be cheaper to get it all from them). There is a similar variant for cars from June 2001 onwards, 34160AE000, which Partsouq does have in stock. The guys from winger said they are very similar, but he wasn't sure that they were interchangeable. BNT and Partmaster don't have the correct part in stock, and Winger is absurdly priced... so hoping to avoid that. Anybody able to advise if 34160AE000 would fit my car? Cheers

Hi, I need to replace the rear rotors on my JDM V7 STi, they failed in the most recent WOF. I haven't checked the prices yet, but is it worth getting the genuine brembo replacement, or are their any good affordable aftermarket options? I'd be more inclined to keep things factory, but I suspect it will come with a ridiclous price tag because of the brembo name... Cheers

I just test drove both of these cars, each was stock... I was blown away by the difference! The V6 was from 2000 and had an EJ207 in it, not sure if that has been swapped at some point or they did actually offer that from factor? I drove the S-GT first, thought it was nice and civilised.. had a bit of pull which was fun, but nothing amazing. Then I test drove the V6 WRX, it blew my mind, really put you back in the seat. I can't even describe how different it was, but I loved it so much more in almost every way. Has anyone else had a similar experience with this, would love peoples thoughts on the difference between Hatch WRX's and the earlier generations! Cheers

How much would you expect to pay for a job done well?

Obviously that is one way of doing it... I thought the finish might not be quite as good?

Hi, I am looking at buying some rims but they come in this very light bronze colour, is there a process where you can get these changed to polished silver? If there is, how much would this likely cost? Cheers! Here are the rims - This is what I would like them to look like - not just silver, but polished

Hello, This is a photo taken from a 2002 V7 WRX STI I was just looking at, noticed this bit of surface rust around the transmission and wanted to check if this was anything to be concerned about? Cheers

Actually forgot to mention this, the right CV Boot has a tear in it? Could this be the problem?

Hello, I have just recently test driven a 2004 WRX and during the drive noticed an unusual problem. What I observed was a shaking coming through the steering wheel with a grinding noise that accompanied it, this noise was only present under acceleration and was most prominent when going around corners. I would not say the sound was overly loud but if you were listening for it you could certainly hear it. Any ideas on what this could be? Aside from this the car appeared to be in great condition for its age. Cheers