IZichard

Got my wing and STI scoop back from the paint shop and put them on.

I try to write down and set the trip when I fill up so here is a little of my recent fuel history. My driving is 80/20 town/highway. You can see pretty big differences depending on how I drive for the week and I tend to let my car warm up for longer than I probably have to. We also only get 95 where I am so that is what I run on. 480km -- 45.0L 356km -- 48.4L 470km -- 52.8L 400km -- 51.1L If anything all this tells you is depends how you drive it mate, some weeks i'm just cruising and some weeks boosting about

http://a15ff11300g.sakura.ne.jp/ This may be of use to you. I don't think it is all they have ever made but there are most of the brochures from the JDM cars. Pretty cool website

Free caster mod? Tell me more...

Probably that swaybar you put in right?

Yeah genuine tensioner from partsouq. Probably wound it over 4-5 times by hand before starting. What does the manual say about how the tensioner should behave? I was measuring wrapping around the belt, so clearance was gapped across the whole width of the belt, and along the whole length of belt that the guide covers. Yeah a proper spacer tool would be good, just to be sure. Anyone have a spare they want to sell me or know somewhere that sells them seperate to a kit? As for the proper feeler gauges, I was using a good set of vernier calipers to measure my spacer.

Pulled the timing covers off. Removed the crank guide and there were signs that it had been rubbing with the belt. I reinstalled the belt guide and double, triple and quadruple checked the clearance between the guide and the belt. Clearance is spot on. I checked all the idlers and they are all fine. Then I put it all back together and went for another short drive. Still getting rubber build up on the small idler. I am starting to think that the reason the belt is contacting the guide is that the tensioner is not tightening the belt correctly. How much play should there be in belt once the tensioner has been set? I remember when I pulled the pin on the tensioner there was no big belt movement as it tightened, should there have been?

Yeah fair enough I'll pull of the crank pulley and all the timing covers tonight

I spaced it out to 1mm clearance on both sides. I measured a couple layers of card with calipers then packed between the belt and the guide and tightened it down. That is what I read the spec was, should it be gapped more than that? edit: it was actually just over mil that I spaced it, like 1.1mm on the calipers.

Scraped it off with my fingernail then went for another drive. It didn't come back so I'm figuring it was just the belt wearing in...

So yesterday I changed my cam seals and crank seal. While I was in there I also fitted a new cambelt, 2x smooth idlers, toothed idler and small smooth idlers. Set the timing and put it all back together with new coolant. All was well, started her up and timing was sweet, filled and burped cooling system then took for a ~20km drive. Drive was fine. After the drive there was a bit of steam rising from bellow radiator cap (near the turbo) figured it was just spilled coolant on the hot exhaust, all good. But there was also a very slight burning rubber smell from passenger side of motor. I pulled off the passenger side timing cover and noticed what appears to be rubber deposits on the small smooth idler. Inside passengers timing cover looking towards crank. I checked and I can still spin this idler, there is a little friction from the belt but it isn't seized or anything. Water pump still smooth no deposites. Anyone got any ideas of what could be wrong here? or is this normal wear in for a new belt. As I said I have only driven ~20km. Also how much play should be in the belt once the tensioner pin has been released? Thanks

Cheers for the help guys, I made a partsouq order and I'll buy a belt from the subaru place near me.

I probably just buy it from partsouq, it is only $25. Unless you are willing to sell it for almost nothing since shipping and all.

Are the two large smooth idlers actually the same?

Did you mean to link to the kit? Cheers for the offer but I already have the genuine cam seals and crank seal.

That's kinda what I was thinking just wondering if there was a kit for convenience. To clarify, am I correct in thinking I need. 13073*A smooth idler 13072*B smooth idler 13073*C smooth idler (is this actually another idler?) 13085 toothed idler 13033 tensioner cam seals (already have) and belt which ill get locally.

My cam seals are starting to leak so I figured I may as well do the cambelt bits while I'm in there. Where I can get good price on a genuine cambelt kit for a v7 wrx (ej205 with avcs)? I was going to get parts from partsouq but they don't actually have the belt itself in stock anywhere... hmmm. Could get the idlers and tensioner from there though. I don't need the waterpump, just belt + idlers + tensioner.

I forgot to mention I also reset the ecu afterwards. Good luck

I had the same issue with my bugeye wagon. It tended to happen more when a/c or headlights were on (increased idle load) and in the same situation as you, slowing down to an intersection. Removed intercooler and cleaned throttle body then ran a can of subaru upper engine cleaner through the motor. Cleaned MAF sensor and it has never happened again ~15,000kms Hope that helps

Do you have any pictures of the car? Are the STI struts quite spendies?

Thanks I messaged him. Do the STI Pink springs provide much of a drop? I read that they only do 1cm.

I am slowly becoming annoyed by the arch gap in my v7 wagon and I am considering some lowering springs. Currently I am using 225/45/17 tyres on the standard STI wheel 17x7.5 53 offset. and there is ~7cm of arch gap in the front and ~5cm in the rear. I am looking for a slightly firmer ride and a bit lower (Not crazy low and rubbing). Anyone got experience with any of the of the different springs and the ride height difference before and after? Do I need to get wagon specific springs? I heard wagons with sedans springs can sag at the back a bit. Cheers

Has anyone got an up to date solution to this? I found oil in my loom, not made it to the ecu yet though fortunately. Cheers