heylinb4nz
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Posts posted by heylinb4nz
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Im going with stick on performance
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Thanks. No wonder why I didnt get much info when I Googled Blitzen shocks (although there were some).
I guess I will spend money on other things
For the majority of spirited driving at legal speeds on public roads the stock Bilsteins are great.
I have little road I drive regularly up to the in-laws house that is used for Targa events and put the BL5 Spec B though its paces many times. Totally acceptable for a road car.
Spend money on other things first if you feel you need more cornering ability (sway bars, end links, nolthane etc)
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$150 sounds pretty cheap for the front+rear. When was it? Can you still get the same price?
Yeah that's what I thought to, but sure enough it was like $75 for the front and $65 for the rear, + GST. Give Autolign in Hamilton a call. Was about 2 years ago
Install was about 45 minutes per side + wheel alignment.
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From memory the stock LCA bushings used in the Legacy are oil filled and are usually poked by 60,000 kms, for mine I ended up getting Nolathane replacement from both the front lower front and front lower rear control arm bushings (LCA bushings). Autolign in Hamilton did a good price. $150NZ all up.
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I called Subaru Winger Greenlane and they said the ONLY Atf they stock is Motul ATF 1A, which is not even OEM fluid? I figured they'd have the Subaru stuff?
It meets Subaru OEM spec (ATF-HP) which is most likely why.
Motul is good stuff, so is Penrite, Redline and Amsoil, if it meets the Subaru Spec and you can save some $$$. Id give Winger in Hamilton a call and see if they stock genuine Subaru stuff first.
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My PBMS Tuned 2004 Legacy GT Spec B was able to get the following economy (measure by actual litres at fill time from a full tank)
Hamilton to Wellington Return - 7.6L per 100 kms
Hamilton to Auckland Return - 9L per 100 kms
Hamilton to Tauranga Return - 9.5L per 100 kms
Town driving - 12-14L per 100 kms
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Cheers for the recommendation, Ill have a look for some, what does everybody else use in their 5EAT's?
I went for the Subaru stuff, but my understanding is that Castrol make it for Subaru. I personally go for OEM when you're dealing with specialised transmissions, especially if they are being problematic, if you put non OEM in and its still playing up can you be sure that you can rule out the fluid ??
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Purchased this recently to fix a seat bolster in my Audi TT that was losing some colour due to friction.
http://www.colourlockleathercare.co.nz/product/leather-fresh-repair-kit/
Not much to say really except
a) it worked
b) it was easy to do
It came with liquid leather as well for filling in and laying down cracks, repairing holes and rips etc. had a ball fixing up cat scratches on leather couch, and also a cut in the leather on my other car (now nearly invisible)
Highly reccomend this to anyone blessed with a leather interior (or with a couch).
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and did you get charged 3 hours for lifting it 10mm~ all round still? (Just asking as per the OP)
and after all that are you happy with the service / would you go back (just addressing the recent post saying Name & shame)
No way, I didnt opt for the 3 hours, just got an alignment only.
Funnily enough on Saturday they said 1 hour, and on Monday when I dropped off and decided to go ahead they then said 3 hours...+ extra for the alignment (ie extra over and above the $89 as it would require more alignment changes). Obviously I ddidnt get it raised, but since I had the day off work and was going upto Auckland, I really had no choice but to leave the car to get alignment done.
To their credit the alignment did correct a handling issue I was having.
But yeah the whole 3 hour quote to raise just the rear 10mm was just a little bit silly and OTT.
Dont even get me started on window stickers !!!!! I hate it when they put remind stickers on the front, and even worse when they put advertising stickers on the rear !!!.
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Got a mitsubishi colt ralliart ver R, had heat sheild rattle, turned out to be big end bearing, threw a rod 2 weeks and < 300 kms later
, 6500 to fix. Turns out car had an oil pump failure previously and owner most likely knew it. -
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This is where you name and shame the company... That's rather excessive for a relatively simple job. However given the choice of car, they may assume you have no idea about cars and tried to see if they could con you?
Yeah I get the feeling a few companies would see an Audi sports car and automatically think $$$$...including the dealerships
was looking at an Audi A8 recently and got a quote for $370 to do an oil change !!!...dont even get me started on what an RS6 costs to service.I've had bad experiences with naming and shaming
, besides most people here are smart enough to know what things should cost and how longs jobs should take, although ive found with european cars it takes a bit more homework. -
Thanks (& Marky) thats pretty reassuring, happy enough with the 180kw (happy enuff with the 140kw now it seems). I think the downpipe+tune+(maybe pod) will be the extent of it. If I want more, might be better to get an STI, do love the wagon though.
Stupid question as I know the answer already, but this would likely void a Winger mechanical warranty?
The latest WRX STI premium is only putting out 225kw, which by the time you factor in drivetrain losses on AWD and Tiptronic you'd be down to the 180 kw atw mark anyway.
RE: warranty
- Pod filter will void. K&N panel filter should not void as you are not changing the factory intake. K&N filters do not void factory warrenties.
- PBMS tune should not void, all you are doing is"tuining" the factory ECU, check with Subaru NZ as they got PBMS to tune some limited edition cars for them. As long as its stock boost all you are doing is "tuning" the car for NZ fuel.
- Front pipe, id check with Subaru
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So you have already have the car booked in? As D1 said. You should give it ago yourself. All you need is a jack and 2 stands. $150 and their yours or you can borrow some from a helpful memeber. Remove the wheels and adjust even amount of turns to the other side (if the car is already sitting at level) then go and get a wheel alignment
I ended up getting just an alignment in the end, and will look at getting a $20 C wrench to do it myself, no jack stands but I can use a couple of 2 ton jacks (with locking) .
Main issue is slight rub on bumper mounting tab in upper wheel arch. Thinking I may be able to dremel off 2 mabey 3mm of it to give the needed clearance, but failing that an extra 5mm adjustment may make the room.
Would I need an alignment doing 5mm of height ?
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Downpipe + tune = 160-180wheel kw
Dead stock hovers around 140ish wheel KW, same as the older RSK / GTB shape makes too
Remember 200wkw is in the ballpark of 350 crank hp, it's a fair hike over stock 260/275. And peak numbers don't remotely tell the whole story, they make awesome low down and oomph and for "normal" driving feel really healthy at that level
Mine was putting down 180KW on PBMS dyno (downpipe + tune + panel filter). A full exhaust job, bigger top mount + an extra 2psi of boost would have cracked 200kw just....but then youre talking spending the same $$$ again to get 1/2 the power of the first 3 mods.
180kw was great for daily driving within the limits (and slightly above when overtaking).
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depends if they have finished the job they had started before your when you drop it off, an hour each side for free time, & an hour to get wheels off, next car off the alignment machine & on it
workshops need wriggle room too
I'd be surprised IF you get charged 3 total hours but they are 'allowing' 3 hours to do it
Dropped off at 9am and said thsy could have it all day.
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Got quoted 3 hours to raise the rear ride height 10mm on my Audi TT (eibach coilovers).
Also told wheel alignment would cost extra as a result.
Didnt think the process would be 3 hours and surely 10mm in rear only wouldnt affect alignment (mabey camber but small).
Am I been taken for a ride?
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sweet! love the sound of the exhaust!
but doing the front pipe+ tune+panel filter wont have much difference in sound compare to before right? think i might just change the muffler later for the sound haha.yup defenitely doing the tint as well, might plasti dip the rear lights(smoke), custom colour for the rims..u mean <200 for each rim right...?
think im just not that used to the heavy sedan thats all, ill get used to it later. how about the stoptech pads? or is it not as good as the stock ones?
jsut around 2k at the moment aye but dont need to rush everything all together, dont mind changing everything slowly
cheers
RE: Sound after (Front pipe, tune and panel)
Doing the front pipe does have a bit of a rasp so would recommend putting a 300mm resonator in there to take it out.
RE: Custom Rim Colour
Link Up paint supplies do custom auto colours in cans to do all 4 rims $200 + 1 weekend (4 cans base colour, 2 cans primer, 2 cans clear coat, sand paper and masking tape)
If you are in Auckland give these guys a call http://www.possumbourne.co.nz/services.html they should be able to do your front pipe, resonator, tune, brake pad upgrade all in one go for around your budget.
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+1 I found that when looking at alot of BP legacy vids on Youtube, many of them were running unequal length headers which ours dont have
. At most with a couple of nice cans on the back (Adrenalin R ovals) you might get a "sporty 2L turbo sound" heres what I did on my MR2 (3" down pipe to dual 2.5" mufflers "Adrenalin R")Bearing in mind a custom exhaust alone will cost you the same as doing the front pipe + tune + panel filter, the system for my MR2 alone was $1300NZ+ @ mates rates.
One of the attractions of the BP Legacy is the fact you can do these easy 3 mods for under $1500 and end up with more power than a WRX Sti Premium...sometimes the attraction can be in being "understated"...looks wise you can make some nice cheap improvements (tint front windows to 35%, custom colour your factory rims for <$200 ).
Lastly on braking, unless your hitting the track, a freshly machined rotor and a good genuine Subaru pad combined with some sticky tyres should be ample for the road.
Whats your total budget ??
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Do you still have the original tyres? Take them to a reputable tyre shop (maybe the one you got your replacement ones from) and see if they can help out with an independent evaluation of the tyres. There must be something in the Warrant schedule that would cover the cracking in the tyres.
Got a VTNZ inspection that says poor condition replace within 100kms. from a WOF perspective they are barely a pass as cracks don't seem to be down to the cords, but esentially within 100kms possibly 500kms there will be no sipes on the shoulders and they will be below the wear markers.
From a consumer guarantee perspective I would expect to get more than 500kms out of tyres on a car I paid $17,000 for.
Think we are covered, just need to lean on the dealer to front up with 50%
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Definitely reason to supply (imo) a near full refund. 260 for a 19 isn't exactly expensive,I think re003 is up around 350 a corner for reference.
Also pretty sly to put old ****ty tyres on it and expect not to have a problem later. Check build date of originals if you still have them.
They really needed to do these things before selling the vehicle so they can work it into the sale price otherwise it comes straight out of what ever profit they made from the sale.
Still this shouldn't be your problem, and we definitely wouldn't let that through at our work. Suspicious that they marked the tyres at aa vehicle check as 4mm but yours came back different. Either they never really checked the vehicle properly or they're in each other's pockets.
Buyer beware there's a lot of con artist sharks in the automotive industry
Tyres were made 2010 and 2011, got them off yesterday, the 2010 ones had points worn to the wear blocks, and excessive shoulder wear with hardly any sipes visable. So yeah 4mm... More like 1.5mm
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Which AA did they get it appraised at? I'd be hitting them up with a "please explain" too
For all we know they've swapped the tyres with another on the yard between the appraisal and you getting it. I've seen far shadier practises than that so it's plausible
"Technically" the car was and is wofable now
In practise it's pretty average conduct
AA are being tight lipped and giving us the run around. The tyres are a full set of matched tyres and wear matches the milage history \ use based on japanese service records. Essentially its done about 8000 kms in 4 years. Tyres are 4.5 years old, so condition is definitely conducive of age and lack of use.
If the car is WOFable its no wonder we have so many accidents in NZ, at the moment the tyres are so dry and hard I can break traction in the dry by putting foot down (in an auto !!)..imagine what happens if it rains.
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$1k on a set of tires? phwoar, thy'd be putting Ditchfinders on them if they get the choice
vinz/vtnz they are currently wofable so there is no argument in my mind, tho I havnt paid more than $700 for any cars I bought in the last 10 years so well out of touch
These are 245/40/19 so yeah price is up there. You can get decent tyres for $800 when you get down to Subaru size 17\18". (Falken ZE912 for example $800 a set).
Wofable or not the AA appraisal was incorrect and the tyres are certainly not great considering we paid $17,000+ for the car.
Had we known the extent of the tyre condition and having to drop $1000 on tyres, then we would have went for the other one we were looking at in Hamilton with lower kms as $1000 put it in the same price bracket.
Essentially we relied on an accurate AA appraisal \ safety inspection, and you'd tyres would be pretty important.
, 6500 to fix. Turns out car had an oil pump failure previously and owner most likely knew it.-
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Legacy b sport speaker replacement
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
I managed to fit in a pair of Jaycar 6.5" Paper Woofers
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Sight-%26-Sound---Home/Hi-Fi-Speakers-%26-Accessories/Component-Speakers/6-5-Paper-Cone-Woofer-Midrange/p/CW2194
but had to use the thick Aepro MDF spacers from Supercheap.
http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Aerpro-Speaker-Spacers-6-5-.aspx?pid=224801#Recommendations
While the door panel was off I also used Dynamat and sealed + deadened the door.
basic kit
http://abtec.co.nz/Dynamat_Xtreme_Speaker_Kit_10415
or go full hog
http://abtec.co.nz/Dynamat_Extreme_2_Door_Pack_10435
Must say the increase in bass\mid was impressive.
Had to drill new holes to mount the spacer, and then mount the speaker to that and also dremel away the cowling from the door panel (bit that faces the speaker) to make room.
On a scale of 1 being plug and play install and 10 being a pita of a job, I rated it about 8.....so not for people with no car stereo experience.
You may get away with throwing a standard shallow set of 4ohm mainstream 6.5" or 6" car speakers in, but the McIntosh amp is designed to have a certain load. Others here may chime in.
Should be $100-$150 install job for a car audio place to do it for you.