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pl0x

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Posts posted by pl0x

  1. On 13/12/2023 at 9:13 AM, Joker said:

    Other than speed sensors woes, yes?

    5 Speeds are all very similar

    I understand Later have 8x bolt Bellhousings and you'll probably only have 4x? 

    6x Speeds are different length? (use Auto Driveshaft?

    Pretty much as Joker said

     

    Front axles maybe - Seem to remember some RS had female inner axle cv. Check inner CV on axle and box for male/female. From my experience you'd want to use the GT axles and make the inner CV's work with whatever suits the gearbox.

    Have gone through drama's recently with a bc5 where one front axle was binding due to being too long (was a brand new replacement listed for the car, but the same part number across everything pre 99 or so). Tried about 3 different combinations before we found one that worked & that was an axle shaft out of another RS. May have had something to do with being 6sp as well.

     

    And if it was me - Replace the shifter bushes (I'm sure there is a write up on here)

    • Like 1
  2. 22 hours ago, boon said:

    First issue is going to be that your BF5 probably has a cable driven speedo, and the 2001 probably has a hall-effect vehicle speed sensor. I have no idea if they are interchangeable.

    Yea speedo fittings can be changed in-between boxes.

     

    I have a memory of breaking the cable driven one getting it out due to being old/brittle so be careful.

  3. Time for a replacement clutch after one too many launches, typically I'd just go for Exedy HD but haven't looked around in years (pretty sure that's what was in it and lasted 5+ years while I owned it).

    330wkw/550nm and will be dragged/launched, not daily driven, v7 6sp box with 5sp clutch and some branded light weight flywheel. Was going to skim flywheel.

     

    Drew's auto clutch's appear cheap but that's not always a good thing.

    Stick to Exedy HD, or go a bit harsher for the Exedy 5 puk.

     

    Any suggestions?

  4. Heads being ok could be a big assumption, I'd be looking at a long block.

    Pretty much needs to be a ej20x quad avcs motor, Ideally get the same to ensure cam/compression is OK for the factory tune (might not even be an issue with these ecus), but you could just get the car reflashed with whatever motor you put in to know its safe.

    • Like 1
  5. On 11/03/2022 at 10:40 PM, Dairusire said:

    Get a motorsports ECU (link, haltech, motec, syvecs, holley. Your preference), get all the sensors you want, have them wired into the ECU properly, and if you want them displayed get some CANBUS gauges

    +1

    I went for a gauge art can gauge (same as the link rebranded one they sell now), all sensors mentioned above bar egt. I barely look at it.

    Generally leave it on oil temp, mainly to see when its up to temp. Rest is controlled/protected by ecu.

    • Like 1
  6. 12 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

     

    It's the comp and turbine wheel sizes. 53mm comp inducer and 53mm turbine exducer.

    ^ My understanding too

     

    What was Niran's old set up making, whatever the v12 sti run VF wise + water meth was ~250 from memory. That's probably the most i've seen a VF make, but W/M does comes with other issues.

  7. I saw on murch's Instagram he had done a ~5353 into a VF48 or 49. I'd be pretty interested seeing the results of that.

    Seems his new turbos are performing really well on the 6 bangers, his older ones seem to choke on Subaru's but I'd be interested to see what the new ones are like.

    • Like 2
  8. I'd stick with the vf22, they're reliable. You'll be down ~20-30kw from that td06 but better power curve I'd imagine.

    Spray water meth pre turbo and let us know how much you can squeeze out of the vf22 

  9. Plug and play is available (wrxlink v1-v2 is the same) and not that expensive for a new ecu. But they do come up sometimes second hand cheaper. I've got a base map to suit a bf5 g4+ if needed.

     

    Could probably re pin or make an adapter but doesn't seem worth the effort.

     

    Never played with possum links myself. Had one in my first Subaru and it run fine with the throttle down but was missing little things which would annoy me if it was a daily (unsure if it was tune or ecu capability but I suspect the later). A tuner told me it was more expensive to tune the possumlink because it takes them more time.

  10.  

    17 hours ago, boon said:

    I had five-o 1650 top feeds, and while they were bloody good wide open, they were inconsistent as anything at lower flows. I think they ended up in a rally car where they would presumably spend more time down at the wide-open end of the paddock 😆

    My car with 1650cc xspurt top feed injectors has the odd splutter down low. Idle seems fine, it's more taking off <2000rpm. Assume it's in injector data or they are just to big.

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