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pl0x

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Everything posted by pl0x

  1. I assume you can see the slave and clutch fork moving?
  2. Redline core can be average, piping is piping. Expect to modify what ever piping kit you get, as mentioned. TL Intercooler cores seem to be good and well rated by all, I'd be looking for or making a piping kit and getting an ITL core.
  3. What intake manifold are you using? Flipped? Have you looked at the n/a short and longer runner manifolds (best factory flowing).
  4. I'll be going for the Athena HG (fire ring) when I fit my dual avcs heads. Turbo - I've always said if I was going for a completely new set up I'd go EFR as they have inbuilt WG & BOV so save the extra cost. With that in mind, they have the turbine wheel failure issue (especially on the smaller turbos which i'd be looking at) so need a speed sensor and some ecu smarts so it can't over speed. Partsouq has a complete engine seal kit which could be worth looking into. When looking for the seals I need for the head swap I went onto ebay and found the "head gasket kits" which listed all the required parts, grabbed parts that suited. Someone on ebay might have a rebuild seal kit that you could copy.
  5. General rule is driveshaft from the same model with the same type of gearbox are the same length i.e. all 5 speed gc8's are the same length. There are different bolt pattern diff/driveshaft flanges, I'm not sure what causes these to change, they may differ between r160 (non sti diff) and r180 (sti diff) so could be something to check.
  6. nzefi do them for an alright price if you don't need the connector kits
  7. Aren't these legacys common for front CV's? although you'd think you could feel it. Apparently you can take them out and swap the sides
  8. Fairly sure the factory yellows are 440cc @ 80% IDC and 550cc @ 100% IDC. You can get aftermarket 880cc side feeds. What are your power goals?, if you want factory "new" injectors i'd have thought 2nd hand side feed yellows would be cheap and get them cleaned/flow tested
  9. Hadn't really considered the venturi in my suggested tests above. It would be nice to get some tests on if it is the return line being too restrictive, or heat from returned fuel entering the cradle, or a combo. You're right though, considering the venturi it gets close to the point of CBF testing and just pay to know a bolt in part is going to solve it.
  10. Do we know what in the factory hanger creates the restriction? Sounds like a combo of heat and restriction to me
  11. @Niran Did your's show issues specifically when on the dyno after a number of runs (heat related), or did it at idle also? It would be interesting to see a test of: Removing the cradle altogether and just having the hanger (Some of the older models didn't have cradles, mine use to fuel surge under 1/4 tank on track. Keep it above half if it's a street car that goes to the track?). Keeping the factory cradle but modifying to allow more fuel flow through (again may allow more surge issues but fine for a street car). Keep factory cradle and route the return out of the cradle
  12. Is it just me or is there smoke coming from somewhere at 21-22 seconds? Sounds kind of like an exhaust leak.
  13. vf38 are the ones that crap out a lot, TD04 twin scroll variant are ok Yea ID of legacy is smaller
  14. Yea, wouldn't want to put it up in the main viewing area over the bridge. Just the view from the "good" parking last year was pretty good and saw a few people watch from there, wouldn't be a bad spot if you could put up some shade but think we'll leave it.
  15. Me and a few mates are heading up Sat. Should be 6 or so cars, hopefully we'll get let into the good parking . Are you allowed to take gazebos? even if it's to put in the good parking area. Looks like it's going to be FFFing hot. Edit: Looking at the event info, that's a no
  16. Is this what you are after? Probably excessive to import one brake clip but Partsouq have them for $2.38NZD + shipping as one option
  17. I assume you are on factory boost control and there isn't a boost tap somewhere? On factory boost control you shouldn't be close to hitting boost cut, so i'd assume a fault somewhere, possibly a leak in the vac lines between turbo/boost controller/waste gate. As a test, try run waste gate pressure (Vac line direct from turbo to waste gate). Manual boost control/boost taps generally cause spikes but could work as a cheap fix
  18. Black is generally unburnt fuel, could be a bit rich on cold start. Mine burns oil (bluey/white smoke) on first start up after sitting for a few weeks/months, with VTA catch can. I doubt it's blowby but you could un-plumb it from the intake and test. and leave it un-plumbed, only thing you need it plumbed in is for cert I believe. I need to run my vent to under the car rather than next to the cabin air inlet .
  19. Fairly sure the GC auto spray was pretty basic, something like based on throttle position (which is pretty useless imo). If you're getting it tuned on a link or the likes, you could hook the sprayer control to an ecu output and have the ecu control it based on just about anything. I would have thought air intake temp and speed would be a good place to start?
  20. I haven't found too much detail on exactly how it is controlled, gather what you can from here: http://www.themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2016/11/17/cool-combustion-water-meth-injection I agree I wouldn't be running WM daily, but have it on a switch for drives/events etc. switch could also turn on higher timing/boost and pull fuel. I think for a road car water meth is better than e85. No issues with it sitting/having to flush or going off, no need to upgrade fuel system completely. But without a good fail-safe(s) or knock control, it can be engine gone if it fails. I've got knock control plus a pressure sensor pre WM nozzle, which needs to be over a certain pressure to trigger the higher boost map and pull fuel. Also hooked up to a light if it isn't meeting the pressure.
  21. I was thinking a fairly simple pre turbo non pumped set up like what the green brothers seem to have a lot of success with - just pressurize the water meth tank with boost pressure. Niran's set up would do it though, and have the added benefit of higher pressure (in theory more atomisation & smaller/no droplets for the compressor) But yea, imo you would want safety/knock control in place in case the WM fails.
  22. Does the new ecu have knock control? Any thought of pre turbo water meth to see what you can squeeze the td04 out to?
  23. Sounds like a recipe for flat battery's but: Constant power wire to the radio, pretty sure it's the yellow one. Along with Andy_Mac's relay wiring to switch it off when the car is on.
  24. Unsure what prices are but he seems to get a fair bit of good feedback on facebook. https://www.facebook.com/TwentyfourseVan/
  25. Makes sense, was thinking must have been second hand or chosen for something large.
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