thewabbit1

I've a etune 2001, rev d. Great car, surprisingly cheap on gas, able to keep pace with a lot of other 'faster' cars. I have an inkling that the etunes did not come with skylights as they lowered the rigidity of the chassis. I might be wrong, but might be worth doing some further investigation into that as its pretty easy to buy a new grill/badge

I honestly wish that i'd taken photos ect/written a guide to how I did it. Basically all I did was (using a paper clip - don't judge) started shorting pins (come to think of it, I think it was a square connector) of the cable that runs between the screen and h/u. I eventually found a pair that will turn the screen on. I then connected this to a relay which is triggered by the accessory power. In terms of the h/u (i'm presuming you've the mcintosh system - if not, ignore) I got rid of the factory amp (under drivers seat) and manually ran the speaker/sub wires to under the seat. I then connected them into the factory loom. I also placed an amp under there to power the factory sub. wiring for the factory loom can be found here: http://jeremy.geek.nz/2010/06/17/mcintosh-ef-1080i-information/ hopefully this sheds some light....

i've done it. Basically, involves finding two wires from the circular pin (one that goes into mcintosh h/u) that you can short together to keep (even when the car is off) the screen on. Then, using a completely over kill relay (the lowest rated non pcb mounted one i could find was 20a) set it up so when accessory is on, the screen turns on! easy right... sorta, took me and a mate a whole day, many beers, many swearing and a trip to repco to buy some more fuses (blew the same one 6 times). It's doable. Where you located?

Ah, cheers mate

It is tempting... cause I only seem to use the rear washer to clean the marks from it dribbling... But I do like bars bugs, not sure if my TMIC would like it

Its like its incontinent... thankfully its only washer fluid [quote name='sobanoodle said: Haha reminded of my old BG, rear wiper jet would start pissing everytime I go uphill. It always seems to happen the worst just after i've cleaned it too

So, this is a possible 'dumb question thread' question, but ima ask here regardless. My BH5s rear wash jet leaks under moderate boost, and my front ones dribble under vigorous cornering. How do I fix this? The mechanic said it was an easy fix but I opted not to get him to do it as easy non mechanical fixes = I can do them. Cheers

did this come with the gf8?

Yea, that's what I was going off of. Cheers guys

Hey guys, I've a bh5 and a strut brace. When installing the brace, what should I torque the nuts to? I've read 14.5lbs but that seems pretty light to me... Anyone know?

i've seen that one around. We sprayed the extra onto cardboard and had fun peeling it off... i got sunburnt tho, so i'll be peeling myself in the next few days

I played with plastidip today

Fitted my mates BOV to my TT legacy, not as many chu chu noises as hopped for even on full atmospheric. Oh well, fun while it lasted. Back to stock tomorrow. Also keen to do a catch can install cause i'm getting some smoke on gear changes. Anyone know best way to deal with the three(?) breathers going into one or two ports on a catch can

I have cardboard and a craft knife

Legend. That's my mates. Cheers for the post

Yes, that one I just did it trial and error (with a paper clip - don't judge) till it turned on. Then I cut the cable and found the correct wires A relay is basically a switch. When current is detect through pins 30 and 87 (ground and 12v switched), it opens the circuit through pins 86 and 85 (the two 'shorted' wires) [quote name='Kol12 said: "COLOR=#333333]The other two pins on the relay were then connected to the switched 12v source (the wire that turns on/off the stereo)." Do you mean the wire from the stereo harness? Like this bit? [/color] Yea, so the wiring harness has a number of wires all serving different purposes (google your headunit to find the correct pinout). There will be a ground wire, 12v constant and 12v switched. These are the important ones. You need to make sure you differentiate between the 12v constant/switched. If you don't already have one, get a multimeter. Cheap one from Jaycar for $20 will do the job fine. Makes it so much easier trying to find what each wire does

My bad haha, i'll change that

buggered as in worse than the ones i have on my current tyres, but still useable. Easier to sell rims with tyres than without

If you were in chch i'd have come help! so out the back of the sat nav is a cable with that square connector, by trial and error i managed to short two of the pins together that would then cause the sat nav to turn on (can't remember which tho =/ ). However it would not turn off. That is why I put in the relay. I cut the connector off the cable, and then attached the mentioned wires to the switch side of the relay. The other two pins on the relay were then connected to the switched 12v source (the wire that turns on/off the stereo). Therefore, when you turn your car onto accessory, the sat nav display will turn on allowing you to see what settings the aircons on

Christchurch...

Brought some new rims with average (worse than my current) tryes. Want to swap the (good) tyres off my old rims onto the new rims and put the (bad) tyres off my new rims onto my old. Anyone know some place that can do this cheap/cashy? Idealy weekends would be best (doesn't have to be this weekend)

Pretty much, when it turns on it shows something in Japanese, and doesn't show any of the satnav stuff (not that it was useful anyway). It will still show the aircon settings however. Yea, probs is. I didn't previous to this install, but my mate helping me said he wouldn't do it if I didn't disconnect it. And it make sense. You're working with 12v that could give you a nasty jolt or worse, fry something else in your car if you short it. In saying that I still blew 5 fuses (the same one) doing the install [quote name='Kol12 said: Apparently there are some Legacy B4 models that come with the mcintosh stereos that are amplified as well. Does any one know what versions they are and what the stereo/amp specs are? I'd say yes. Have a look under the drivers seat. If there's an amp there, then yes it is. You can use that amp, but it requires line outs from your headunit (RCAs). In my install we removed the factory amp, ran the speaker wires from behind the dash to under the drivers seat then connect with the factory speaker loom that ran to the doors. Where are you located?

Hey dude, I had the same issue! It was a ***** of a job, but what me and a mate managed to do was find two pins connecting the sat nav to the head-unit which we could short to turn the sat nav on. However, these kept the sat nav on constantly (even when the car was off). To solve this we wired them into a relay which would activate when the car was turned onto accessory! The sat nav now only works to show the aircon settings. I looked at doing that but it requires stripping the loom and rewiring the whole thing right back from one of the pillars. cbf doing that. Too easy to screw something up

Hey, can anyone recommend an auto electrician to do an alarm install?