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thewabbit1

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Everything posted by thewabbit1

  1. I'd say that its likely enough has dripped onto something for you too see smoke. Its probably always been smoking and you've never noticed it
  2. Have you had the rocker cover gaskets replaced? My legacy the same symptoms...
  3. Try imgur (thats what i use) then just paste the direct link in here (set the size to med or large thumbnail)
  4. Seen these? With I/C - https://www.scarles.co.nz/products/intercooler-kit-subaru-twin-turbo-scarles W/O I/C - https://www.scarles.co.nz/products/subaru-twin-turbo-intercooler-piping-scarles
  5. So I've had a trawl online for these ,but cant get a definitive answer.... What are the cluster bulbs for a rev d BH/BE legacy (blackout cluster)? I've read t5 for the rings but not sure for the others. I seem to recall someone on here changed all theirs. How many of each do you need? I've got one on the ring out, but seeing I'll be back there I might as well change them all
  6. Got a wof -phew- I hate getting wofs. Always worried something obscure and expensive will cause it to fail
  7. Could just be grounds? get a multi meter and check the voltage difference between them and a known 12v. Or see if you can test for continuity across them and the chassis. EDIT: just re-read @axle117s post, saw car is out of action. @IZichard do you have a multi meter handy?
  8. damn, that turbo was rooted. Keep up the videos man! be cool to see progress in a vlog format
  9. I'm no guru on these matters, but talk to whoever built the engine? assuming that it was a performance shop, they should know all the right things to do and be able to do them correctly
  10. Yea, went in store and they said it was likely their plate reading software misread my plate Considered that, however I track every fill and I went back and checked it with my CC bill and they all match. I'd be suprised if i didn't record my fill AND didn't pay..... Thankfully, once this month is up and i've spent all my BP cents off, i'll be getting some nice juicy 100 octane from NPD
  11. Massive shout out to Aidan in the CHCH Toyota parts department. Ordered some TRD Brake fluid (Re-labeled Motul RBF 600) through them earlier this week, for $21(incl GST) for 500ml. Super helpful guy, really friendly and quick, prompt service. You should be able to get the brake fluid through any Toyota Parts Dept in the country
  12. Went to fill up my car yesterday at my local BP and got given a card saying my vehicles registration is on the BP Drive Off Hotlist..... They couldn't tell me why when in the store and told me to ring the number on the card. I rang the number and the guy on the phone said my registration wasn't in the system and that I need to go into the store.... I'm a mix of concerned, confused and F***ed off that I feel like I've essentially been labeled as a thief.
  13. I'm pretty sure it is to do with the resistance. you can get thinfs like these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MCIGICM-50W-6ohm-8ohm-10ohm-8-Pack-Load-Resistors-Fix-LED-Bulb-Fast-Hyper-Flash-Turn/32829835196.html Not sure how well they'll work
  14. Do you really want to go for the cheapest parts for something like a cambelt... If it fails, you're gonna have a (not) fun time. Best to get OEM, make sure you do all the idlers, tensioner and the water pump as well
  15. No, not sure really. When i remove the last bold, the lower arm had heaps of free up and down play, 4-5cms. I don't really know how to judge that
  16. Spaced out my control arms for a bit more (i think) castor...
  17. Seeing that those photos are toast, and I wanted to do it myself, here are some photos... Also tried to flip this part, but those suckers were on ttiiiiggght. and they sit at an angle where i can only get a spanner on, not a proper socket with some tube.... I'd recommend taking them off the car, and putting in a vice and then removing.
  18. Also replace the 90d elbows under the TMIC - i noticed a difference with that
  19. I have a ecu def file for my revd - i'll try remember to share the link to it tonight EDIT: here's the link to all the ecu stuff i have. there may well be copies of the above in the 'From CS' folder: https://my.pcloud.com/publink/show?code=kZRd417Zn5iU6SKA1BkWDxfvzHs4Xk7s0jnV 'From FB' contains one def file I think and 'ECU Dump' contains my ECU image, and two def files It's been a while since I looked at them, but give em a go
  20. Be interested to see what effect, if any, this will have on BP 98 prices....
  21. I saw your car parked down Fort Lane(?) just near Giapo - i defiantly had a good oogle at it - so nice.... (i'm from CHCH)
  22. The high current only passess through the switched side of the relay Edit: whereas if you were just using a switch you'd have that high current in the switch and burn it out.
  23. Hmmm... I think your way is more or less the same as above..... I'm no electronics guy so take what i'm saying with a pinch or two of salt. The way your explaining (seems to me) is that your source to liven the switch for the bar is slightly different, by no means is it incorrect. Your solution (with a switch) would allow you to toggle the light bar when your lights are on (as you said). My implementation would only allow for the light bar to be toggled when highbeams are on (which is what OP asked). All lights in a car will be on relays, t0o risky having a switch carry so much current, plus its easier to replace a broken relay than a whole stalk/switch. The only additional relay to include is the one for the bar, the other one is already in your car I used this to make the diagram: https://www.circuitlab.com/editor/#
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