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McDoof

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Everything posted by McDoof

  1. My stock tune was at IAM 0.7188 when I first started. Sorry the first LV I did was exported to CSV Then I reverted to stock after my tune with Crytone wasnt going too well and it looked like this after a few days. Not pretty
  2. That is the trade off I guess. He takes a long time to get back to you. To be fair though he has just had surgery and is currently recovering. I will see if I can get a base tune from him for your ECU. I have a bit more success at times getting hold of him. I have the MY05 version of the same car and when I loaded up Matt's base tune it was miles better than the custom tune I had done by Cryotune.
  3. IAM is never at 1 on a stock tune. Get Matt Mcleod to send you a base tune for that ECU. It will sort out most of those issues. He has pretty good base tunes for the ADM models. PM trottlehappy on the forum
  4. That almost sounds like your engine has ingested a wookie.
  5. Agreed, as long as maintenance has been good and car is not blowing smoke or anything funny like that, you should be good. Mine is at 150k now.
  6. Yes you need windows. Sorry. Get a cheap netbook of trademe.
  7. You will probably get a little less power due to the losses from the torque converter. Mine is 6MT. This could be offset by adding the CAI. Apparent good for about 10kw extra.
  8. Headers cost me $500 delivered. I had a bunch of other work done on the front of exhaust because it had fallen apart a bit inside. The front section of this exhaust is all double walled and it had separated making it rattle. You can't really install the headers yourself unless you have a welder and some welding stills. They are not a direct bolt on due to the design of the stock exhaust. They provide a flange that needs to be welded in and then you keep your stock cats. Have a look at what mine looks at, the link to my thread is in my signature. The install alone was around $250 IIRC. It looks like the guys at highbrook automotive do a good job of installs and fabrication so you could ask them what it would cost to install and do the 3rd cat delete. The latter requires the fabrication of a Y piece. I bought one from amazon that I had welded in. Does the job. Tune was/is $400. I use Matt Mcleod.(Kido Tuning or throttlehappy depending on which forum you visit) He knows the H6 the best of anyone I have heard of. Tune by email basically. You just need a certain amount of patience to work with him. Sometimes it takes him a while to respond. That said I would not use anyone else for the H6. He does free retunes too, so you can get your car tuned now so that it actually drives the way it should, then if you decide you want more, start of the exhaust stuff and he will retune for your mods. Makes the 5EAT much more responsive.
  9. Pretty much my setup. 163atw
  10. I think it depends on what you have done to the rest of your system. If you keep the rest stock I imagine it would sound pretty good. However, if you have taken out other restrictions on the system then it starts to be a bit of a problem. Daytona did a full system in one shot. Headers, high flow cats, 3rd cat delete and then this system. Would sound sound raspy.
  11. $400 gets you a decent remote tune from a reputable tuner. Just just need a little patience, some straight road where nobody knows just how fast you can go in 3rd gear and a tactrix dongle. To be fair you could borrow mine as long as it comes back to me. :-)
  12. Find a tuner that specialises in Subaru like PBMS and get it done there. I've seen better results from a remote tune without running the car so rich. You won't see any difference in changing to BP.
  13. Guessing my old mufflers have been put to good use then.
  14. It's unlikely that mufflers alone will give you any gains, mainly because they are not the most restrictive part of the system. If do as planned and do a 3rd cat delete and the mufflers and you get a tune update to suit then yes there are some gains to be made. As far as legal stuff goes. You should be fine to remove the 3rd cat on any car due to still having another one on each branch. If you want to go full decat then you can only do that if you car was first registered in NZ before 2010 some time. Full decat will sound baaaad
  15. OK, so the X-Force with 3rd cat delete and headers. It sounds average. So be prepared to add another resonator to the mix. Find posts by forum member Daytona on his exhaust system. He spent heaps of time and effort on it. (He just sold his car sadly) He also had the Raptor intake. These are on a limited production run, so you would have to contact Raptor to check for availability. The same actually goes for headers. That video is with the Ultrex mufflers. I had those on my car too. They sound awesome, but were a bit loud for me. Sold them to another forum member here. My advice on exhaust would be Raptor Headers -> 3rd Cat Delete -> Stock Cat back Keep your stock cats. If you find you want it louder from there, then look at some after market mufflers. It could be worth getting a set out of Australia. It looks like Ultrex is about to do a production run of their twin tip setup which should be good. You will be paying silly money for any Japanese stuff like HKS. http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=13230&start=150 Resonators are very important on these cars. The motor can sound very raspy if you get it wrong. Most important of all... Get your car tuned. This is where the magic lies. Personally I have been working with Matt McLeod (throttlehappy on clubsub or Kido_tuning on the aussie forums) He is from what I can tell the master of the EZ30. There is one down side to using him. He is pain to get hold of at times, so you have to be prepared to wait at times. IMO it's worth the wait. Some people get annoyed with him, but if you are aware of this up front then there is nothing to be annoyed about.
  16. I love my 3.0R and got a fair bit of extra power from some exhaust work and a tune. All I have done is K&N Panel filter replacement ($60 off Amazon) Airbox resonator removed. Raptor Headers ($500 delivered plus $200 for the install) 3rd Cat delete. I ended up getting the front section of my exhaust custom made only because the stock one was not in good shape same with the rear resonator (I'm actually looking for a stock midpipe again because it sounds better) GTB Pre facelift mufflers for looks as they are the same as the stock 3.0R one inside. I've also done stoptech brake pads on the stock brakes. So it stops. This made me refurbish my wheels because they make so much dust that it made the gutter rashed silver wheels look horrible. ($250 worth of paint and a lot of my time) I had the front springs reset 25mm lower as the rear's had sagged so its a bit lower than stock but still retains the stock feel. ($200) Replaced the rear swaybar with a Cusco unit from Japanparts.com ($260 delivered) The stock power of the car on a dyno is between 120 and 135kw atw. I had mine dyno'd at 163kw. Because it is NA its bloody good to drive. Lots of midrange power and a big fat and flat torque curve. With just the 3rd cat delete and tune it was already miles away from a stock car as far as performance and drivability goes. The headers liven up the top end a bit. It does 0-100 in around 6 seconds now. Still not mind blowing but good enough for an old fart like me. Link to a basic info thread in my signature.
  17. Those will not git a Gen4 Legacy. I think the US ran the Gen3 Legacy until 2004
  18. If you want to add an adaptor to change your PCD I would go and talk to a certifier before you buy anything. They are quite knowledgeable on the subject and can advise you on the right rim offset vs adaptor offset combination.
  19. ANY wheel spacer or adapter will need to be certed AFAIK. http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/ And from the lvvta site http://www.lvvta.org.nz/knowledge_base.html Do wheel spacers and adaptors require LVV certification, and if so what are the requirements? Yes - a vehicle fitted with any wheel spacers or adaptors needs LVV certification. The maximum thickness allowed is 20mm for spacers and 30mm for adaptors. Refer to LVV Standard – Learn More
  20. Over fill your oil. That's what was recommended to me.
  21. I have a full log of all miles and fuel ever put into my car. At bit OCD about that stuff but it helps identify if there are issues. So: Full tank open road driving @ around 100 to 110 km/h = 8.6 l/100km (was 9.9 before the tune) Full tank of town only driving mostly 10km commute = 13 l/100km Lots of cold starts Average over the last 10 000km is 12.4 l/100km Real world numbers. The dash consumption gauge shows around 13.1 so it's a fair bit over.
  22. Lets say I wouldn't try and get the gearbox out like this, but it works fine for getting the exhaust unbolted. Feels safer than jacks and axle stands. If I need to go higher I just add another plank.
  23. http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/hoists-jacks/auction-1054767654.htm Seems well priced for a good jack
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