McDoof

If you want to do ramps you have to make them yourself. Step them up at just the right amount not to catch the bumper.

Black and red.

No. It's just a result of using it. You will find pretty much any manual car will get something similar to this over time. A bit like having shudder in your brakes, just that the flywheel is a bit harder to get to than your brake rotors, so it's no small job to get it machined. You are looking around $600 labour alone. So the general idea would be to put a new clutch in while it all apart. That way you don't have to do it all again.

Pretty common. It just means that your flywheel is a bit uneven. The reality is, unless you are prepared to spend big money money on a new clutch and getting the flywheel machined, then you just have to live with it.

I got a random brand set from Repco. The Axle stands are fine. The jack is of questionable quality. While it lifts the load just fine, the pin has fallen out of the handle so it does not lock in place and the bit where the bit the the handle goes into connects to the hydraulic master cylinder is only attached by a weak bit of bent tin. I have to constantly reshape this to keep it working. So probably worth spending a bit more on the jack.

Same with pretty much any stock speaker replacement.

I'm thinking something along those lines too. The car is 11 years old and has 150k on the clock so it's entirely possible. Every other bush on the car is on it's way out.

The old clutch was still clamping fine. It just had very little travel. As for the low RPM driving. It's pretty much the same thing any newer auto and CVT will do until it gets to a certain point of course. IN most cases the I'll be doing 50 to 60km/h so it sits at 1300 to 1500RPM. This issue manifests itself in any gear if pull from low down. AND although I don't do this often, if I drop the clutch for a launch it seems to bounce. Same if downshifting. Its fine until it gets down to around 2k RPM then rather than a nice smooth engine brake it just bounces a bit. It's like there is slack in the driveline somewhere that wasn't there before.

Maybe not as bad as the title makes it sound. I had my clutch replaced about 2 months ago. In general the car is much nicer to drive. I have a full range of clutch control rather than just 2cm at the top of the pedal. No more clutch shudder and so on as you would expect. However: I drive my car at very low RPM a lot of the time because the motor is quite happy to crawl along at 1000RPM in 6th going up a hill. This has never been an issue. Since the new clutch is in it seems to vibrate when I change into a high gear at low RPM. The car sort of bounces of the clutch. It comes right if I get the revs up a bit. Any thoughts on why this would happen after a new clutch? Too much torque on the new surface?

Not that you would notice.

For the transmission, start with a flush and a see if there is a PAK file update. If it's still problematic then you can start looking at other things. I have a similar issue on the missus' Tribeca. I'm getting both done tomorrow. Brakes. If you have shudder in the steering wheel then your front rotors are probably a bit uneven. (they dont actually warp as such just uneven wear due to pad deposits left on the disk from heating and cooling) If you have shudder in your butt, then it's the rear disks. If there is enough meat left in the disk then you can get them skimmed at most mechanics and get some new pads at the same time so both surfaces are smooth. If you are just driving on the street then a good set of ceramic pads will do you well. If you plan on any track days etc then you need to get something a bit more grippy. These tend to make a lot of dust though and eat your rotors. If you are replacing the rotors, they are 316mm at the front and 290mm in the rear with drum in disk for the handbrake. Not sure on part numbers. Suspension: So many things can knock on the suspension. End links, Bilsteins, LCA bushes. It's a process of elimination. If you want to sort the steering a bit and get the roll under control a bit then start with a new rear sway bar. The stock links aren't too bad but should be replaced if worn. I'd invest in some new upgraded sway bar mounts if you plan on driving it hard. The stock ones can bend if you do the bar and then thrash it. (track days)

It may be worth double checking that. This is information I got from a thread on the Aussie forums some time ago, but I have never actually checked it. The post facelift also gets a 1MB ECU rather than a 512K version, so the engine is a bit smoother due to having more granular ECU tables to work with. I say go drive a few of them and pick the one the feels the best. I drove about 15 cars before I finally picked one. Then get it remapped. Even without any modifications you will get a huge improvement in midrange torque. For me it changed me from liking my car to loving it.

The facelift H6 Manual has mostly cosmetic changes. There are some minor changes to the gearbox. AFIAK they switched to a standard STI unit in the facelift, whereas the pre facelift had a slightly longer 6th gear and a more angled cut on the gears to make it smoother on changes.

^^that^^ Pads with a decent heat rating and some fresh fluid.

Probably the best used Subaru parts guys. Very friendly and knowledgeable.

I had my first tune on the 3.0 done by Dave @ Cryotune. He's not great on the N/A motors. My tune was very peaky. Lots of top end and midrange was flat. The guy that referred me to him has a JDM Legacy GT auto and he is pretty happy with the tune on that. So I imagine he's OK for the turbos. Yes, agreed Matt (Kido) is slow to respond and can be frustrating at times, BUT and this is a big one, I have to say he is hands down the best tuner there is for the H6. And there is something to be said for free retunes when you mod your car. (Even if you have to wait for them) His stock generic tune for my car was better than the Cryotune full custom tune after 9 revisions.

AFAIK The pre facelift models here in NZ were actually JDM spec. This you can see from the 180km/h Speedo, so there is very little difference in spec. The NZ New Spec B cars pre-facelift just had the full option list ticked. Post facelift again, I think the first (MY07) cars were actaully 2.0 JDM spec. Then in MY08 they went over to the ADM (Aussie) 2.5l spec. Most common differences are that NZ new cars will have a full compliment of air bags. Most but not all JDM cars only have the front 2. The ADM cars get headlight washers and pretty much all of the ADM cars have the standard wing style grill. Many of the JDM spec B cars get the honeycomb treatment. Both models are very tunable and most tuners will do both. If you are going non spec B then the NZ new cars will not have Bilsteins, they will have KYB shocks. I have never seen a non Spec B NZ new Legacy though. There is probably more but that's some of stuff anyway.

Not sure. I've been told that you can make them react almost as well as a DSG.

^^ That ^^ 6k is a bit rich unless it's 2003 run out model, and with no issues a good set of rubber, then I would go that high maaaybe. On a car that old be ready to fork out on lots of rubber bits that have perished in the suspension and probably a new clutch in the near future.

An ECU/TCU remap along with the pak file upgrade gets the response time right down.

The exhaust is a very sensitive thing on these. So yes they can sound amazing, but also very easy to get wrong and it will sound like crapola. The best combo I have had so far has been Raptor Headers ->Stock Cats-> Custom front piping and front Y Piece ->Stock cat back. I'll be going back to this once I can find a stock mid section from someone. If you like it a bit louder then it sounded really good with a set of Ultrex mufflers on the back, but was bit too loud for me. These sound about the same as the X-Force mufflers. Headers cost about $500-$600 delivered from Australia. Just keep an eye on this thread so that you know when they are doing a production run, they normally sell out pretty quickly. http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=17262&sid=d74a590c91dc20eb6f8e5116cebdcfb4&start=720 STI Pinks will set you back around $600 delivered from Japan A tune will cost you $400 and comes with free retunes for life should you make any hardware changes. Which good if you are planning on Headers and exhaust changes. You will need a tactrix dongle and some patience. Get hold of Matt. PM Him from this thread http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=16602&sid=d74a590c91dc20eb6f8e5116cebdcfb4&start=885 He is a real pain to get hold of sometimes, but his work is outstanding.

I have the same car and I would say the tune is the single best thing I have done to it. If you are in Auckland I can get a read off the ECU and see what model it is and arrange a generic base tune for you as a trial. I have an extra 30 to 40kw out of mine post tune. (with headers)

Fair enough. I have the Tribeca for that stuff. It's almost good off road. (for a soft SUV)

Love the catch can. Very high tech

I see. Coilovers not doing it for you then?