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Durty-Sanchez

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Everything posted by Durty-Sanchez

  1. Mine did this when the water pump went (if that helps). Would overheat at idle but you could drive it and it'd cool back down to normal again. Could be worth looking at, cambelt/pump is marginally cheaper than head gaskets!
  2. Another quick question... how compatible are GC8 struts with the BD5? I read that the front's are a match but the rear GC8's are shorter and would cause the Legacy to sit lower in the rear. However, using the part number site posted above the part numbers for the rear struts are very similar between the two chassis and have a common interchangeable part number: BD5: 20362AC300 GC8: 20360FA242 KYB BD5 replacement: 334115 KYB GC8 replacement: 334109 = also interchangeable with the BD5 20362AC300 Confusing af I'm sure most people think the same when they see the state of it
  3. Thanks for the links I'll take a look shortly. Probably after new shocks tbh but might consider a used set if it works out better. Cheers, DS
  4. Hey, Currently running KYB shocks (unknown model) and am looking to replace or upgrade if possible. KYB haven't seen me wrong so interested in either: Part numbers for the OEM replacement strut/shocks Part numbers for the AGX variant strut/shocks so I can try to source these offshore Or... any recommendations for strut/shock replacement options Any good suppliers for any of the above Details are: BD5A TT Legacy RS, high KM's and standard springs/suspension. Daily motorway driver but am looking for improvements with open road / uphill / downhill Rimutaka performance. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks, DS
  5. Unfortunately cars of our generation are starting to foster a few electrical gremlins so this may not be the easiest thing to track down. Having had something similar go wrong here\'s some suggested bug-hunting steps. Firstly though it\'s worth noting that your climate display will flash on for a split second when you switch the ignition off. This seems to be some kind reverse voltage or delay between the logic circuits losing power and the cut-off minimum power for the illumination components (mine does it too). In any case, this may indicate that your unit is ok and it\'s just not getting the ON signal it needs to fire up. So... 1. Fuses all ok (done) 2. Does the cabin power work? e.g. stereo, ciggy lighter, etc. 3. Do you have cabin ON power? My ignition barrel plays up and I have no climate/stereo/wipers from tiem to time 4. Does the unit have ON power? It will most likely have a permanent battery supply for memory, etc. but it will also get a ON supply from the cabin/ignition circuit in order to operate normally. Check for good grounds at the same time. 5. Swap the unit - they go from 30-50 on trademe. I did this; it didn\'t fix my problem but it was a necessary step. I had missed something in step 4... 6. Sell the car. ;D To be honest either it\'s going to be a power/grounding issue or the unit is poked. The steps above only help you to isolate exactly where the problem might be with minimal effort. If you get to step 6 and the new unit hasn\'t fixed it then chances are you\'ve missed something at step 4 or you bought a dud climate unit. g\'luck!
  6. When you say a jumper you mean one with resistance, right? Otherwise you might be shorting out some of the ECU circuits
  7. CEL codes? They will tell you if anything is unplugged and/or missing.
  8. Does it still have the factory BOV?? If it seems to run fine off boost then there\'s no significant amount of metered air leaking out so as Marky said, your skank-whistle is sounding a bit suspect.
  9. Wastegate pressure is ~7psi but with a working factory boost solenoid AND restrictor-pill it\'s around 14psi. I have chips if you\'re interested. It needs to be a first-gen TT though ~93-95, EJ20H engine, R6/7C ECU (there\'s another too but I forget the code - T9 maybe?). Wait until you\'ve sorted your current problem out first tho.
  10. Put a resistor between the wires (100ohm might do?). Make sure you block off the line (23) that goes to it usually. That way your primary will just run stock wastegate pressure rather than free-boosting
  11. Things that have caused my miss-firing: - Plugs gapped incorrectly. 0.8mm ftw - Coils got old. New coils are pricey but make a huge difference (expect a few years out of a set tho) - Fuel pump. The factory one will be giving you grief if you haven\'t replaced it already - Fuel pump wiring. The factory wiring seems to build up heaps of resistance, limiting the current draw by the pump. New power supply/relay did the trick - AFM (this was more a cut-out rather than a missfire). Resoldered cracked connections. There\'ll probably be CEL\'s if it\'s this. Misc other ignition issues & fixes: - Knock-sensor didn\'t cause missfires but did put it in to limp mode. You\'ll get a CEL for this. - Oxygen sensor. Probably getting old but shouldn\'t cause missfire under load (ECU ignores it). It might explain your high gas consumption though - Cam sensor gave me starting/idling grief, no missfires (ECU doesn\'t use it for firing, only syncing at startup and idle) My order of debugging would be: 1. Regap those plugs! 2. Check ECU for codes - fix as required 3. Reset ECU (battery off over night) 4. Check resistance on fuel pump circuit - fix as required 5. Replace stuff! Your choice if you go in order of cheapness or likelihood of being at fault (i\'d go fuel pump, coils, knock sensor, oxygen, afm) G\'luck (edit to categorise stuff)
  12. The primary wastegate vac line is fed directly from the primary compressor housing. Somewhere on that vac line will be a t-junction that runs off to the boost-control solenoid (the thing that\'s gone wrong) in the passenger side guard. The return line from this solenoid goes in to the primary air intake before it reaches the primary compressor. The way it works is that your primary turbo produces pressure, which is fed directly to the wastegate and activates it when wastegate pressure is reached. The boost-control solenoid "vents" some pressure away and so delays how soon the wastegate is activated. In this situation the solenoid is venting pressurised air through itself and back in to the intake system (which will always be in vacuum) so all metered air remains in the system. So anyway, either the solenoid in the guard is poked or its lost connection to the ECU. As mentioned, check for loose connections and failing that replace the solenoid.
  13. Don\'t rebuild for the hell of it. Use your money to either do the single conversion now OR save it to cover the rebuild if/when your engine does go. Rebuild > 2nd hand unknown condition engine imo. My TT engine lasted well past 300km before it gave up so you have plenty of life left in it to save up and consider your options. If you want to rebuild then you can look around for a good block with reasonably round bores. Find some older EJ20 pistons too as they have longer skirts and will keep the build cost down (plus they\'re probably an upgrade) if you\'re concerned.
  14. Stuff you should do to make it go better (aka run normally): - Coils (if they haven\'t been done already they\'re old! On to my 3rd set now) - Plugs - Fuel pump, including wiring-in a new relay and power cable. The factory loom builds up significant resistance which reduces the current the pump can draw, limiting fuelling. Upgrades: - Exhaust, especially a larger bore to the secondary turbo can add some fun - Single turbo is possible, could be a big wiring job though depending on your ECU Hit me up for a ECU chip if you stick with the TT setup
  15. +1 Cam sensor. Cranks but doesn\'t start, is prone to cutting out when idling. You can sometimes fiddle the plug (passenger side of cambelt cover) while cranking and it\'ll come back to life enough to get it going again. Had some interesting moments at the melling intersection trying to do this. Just get a 2nd hand one from the wreckers, mine was like $40 or something
  16. Those little bastards do whine when you put your foot down, it\'s half the fun of owning one. I\'ve got a pair at the moment that are so shit the primary whines during idle, the thing sounds like a jet sitting on the tarmac. Anyway, still boosts 15psi no worries and pulls like a school boy. Like Bugle said, you\'ll know it when they\'re toast. Your nothing-then-full-bore symptoms may not be your turbo. Do you have a boost gauge installed? If not then see if you can get one, if only to see what\'s going on. One free thing you can do is unplug the ECU or battery overnight to let the ECU reset. Often my TT gets a bit like how you describe, super laggy when you put your foot down. I noticed that mine was still running a decent amount of boost so it wasn\'t the turbo. ECU reset fixes the shitty timing maps these things develop at low rpm so you get a bit more response when you put your foot down. Other possibilities are a leak somewhere so make sure everything\'s screwed together nice and tight (those pipes from turbo -> IC can loosen up sometimes). If you start to notice jerky acceleration then you could be looking at plugs / coils / fuel pump, but if acceleration is smooth just lacking the fun-factor then definitely ECU reset and/or look for a leak.
  17. That sucker on your firewall is the differential pressure sensor - it basically helps equalise pressures from both turbos before it allows them to combine. That sounds fine to me, but as marky says its your pressure sensor that lives in the bbod (I forget which line it goes to). 7psi sounds like wastegate pressure so either your restrictor pill has gone or something is going in to failsafe mode. Given that you were tinkering with vac lines and not the sensor I\'m inclined to say go make sure they\'re all ok
  18. Heh, came back to study up for the legacy refurb [quote name='Paradox said: Also one more thing, if they did tweak the boost, does that show straight away, or do I need a boost controller to up the boost to the tuned level? If you understand that lol The ECU doesn\'t manage boost very well I\'m afraid so any serious tweaks are a bit like flogging a dead horse. My understanding is that ECU has some pre-defined load/rpm map that manages the boost control solenoid. This just kind of delays the onset of the wastegate more than anything (those little restrictor pills in the vac lines really mess with it too). Anyway, if you\'re serious about running good stable boost then just run a decent electronic boost controller with sensors and what not
  19. I\'ve had a good look at the maps from these ECU\'s and they\'re pretty good. The tweaks I found were mainly to the ignition map. The ECU firmware at the time had two maps - a base map and an advance map. The two maps sat on top of each other if you will in that they were additive. The base map may dictate 10° of timing for a particular load/rpm cell and the advance map would apply another 10° giving a total of 20° timing in that cell. The ECU had the authority to remove timing from the advance map only so the minimum your ECU would run would always be the base map (you\'d need to be doing something very wrong for this to happen). Anyway, the stock base map is pretty rank, especially at low RPM and all loads. I noticed that Mines ECU\'s didn\'t advance the overall ignition so much as they migrated timing from the advance map to the base map to prevent the ECU from pulling back the timing. Further, looking at the noise the knock sensor puts out at low RPM I can see why they did this. There\'s most definitely something that sounds a lot like detonation happening at low RPM but if it was detonation or not is another thing entirely. My guess is that the ECU hears this noise too, interprets it as det and pulls the low-rpm timing back. This is most likely why your car feels gutless when you put your foot down until you reset the ECU again (mine does anyhow). Anyway, the net result of the Mines change is that you keep a decent timing map at all times so it feels more responsive. They did also tweak the timing a little, there\'s advances here and there so use good fuel. The fuel map got a small tweaking too but very minor. Speed cut was set to something stupid like 300km/h and there\'s a RPM increase of 500rpm too I think (from memory). I think there was a few other tweaked tables, not sure what they were, boost and misc. throttle related tables I suspect. TL;DR Good ECU upgrade, pretty safe still, A+ would recommend.
  20. Sorry if already covered, search returned nothing. When replacing a TT block with a ST block but retaining the TT setup, are there any differences such as additional water/oil lines for the TT block that the ST (v3 STi) wont have? Are there any other differences in sensors, starter motor, PS, alternator, (all the bolt on stuff)? I'm aiming to swap the full block but keep as much of the existing peripherals as possible. Just looking to minimise surprises during the swap Thanks in advance, DS
  21. The fog lights can power the illumination signal line independently of the main lights, hence the problem you've got. If you can find where the fog light circuit does this then you can disconnect it so only the headlights power the signal line. Places to look: 1. The fog light push-button switch itself - they may have made it easy for you! 2. The relay that powers them - pretty sure it's under the dash. 3. Some god-awful place under the dash - lets hope it's not this. Given that the illumination wire is a cabin-only feature you can expect 1 or 3 I'd say. If you find it let us know, I've been meaning to do this also for ages now
  22. Hi all, Long time/no post. The TT's reached 325kms and is in need of yet another cambelt change, so rather than flogging an old horse I thought it might be time to spruce the engine up a little. Before I do though I thought I'd weigh up the options. So, bearing in mind that I want to keep the TT gear and minimize the time spent pissing around and with the car off the road, if someone could give me some pointers on the following that'd be great! 1. Do I need to stick with the EJ20H bottom end or can I pretty much swap it out with any rebuilt EJ20 short block? Are there any 1st gen TT specific tweaks to the EJ20H bottom end? Will the alternator/AC/power-steering bolt up regardless of what I use? 2. If I ditch the standard heads and roll with some GTB/STI heads I'll be looking at changing the coil pack type at a minimum. Any other gotchas? 3. Does the TT manifold play nice with any block? I'd prefer to keep the 380cc injectors and abundance of vacuum tubes for the time being. I'm pretty much just looking to refresh the engine and retain all the existing peripherals. A little extra power would be nice but not essential, so if need be I'll just stick with my existing heads. Opinions/ideas are welcome! Cheers, DS
  23. If you pull the spark plugs out you'll find them ... they sit over the plugs and are bigass black rubber things
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