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Posts posted by Technikhaus
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Man that's awesome to hear, happy for you!
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Sold the Gravel Express last night, definitely going to miss it!
Gone to an enthusiast in Queenstown though, so should be well enjoyed and looked after.- 1
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I haven't personally, but I think it all depends on what model you're wanting to import.
Most of the pre-2000s would be harder to import now due to emissions, and some of the mid 2000s ones would need to be 'special interest' I believe?
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Dunedin too, good old NPD
284.6 for 100 at npd
315.9 for 98 at BP
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It's not an STI, but it may as well be 😛
6 Speed manual, fully forged motor, ported &polished heads, GTX3071R.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/subaru/listing/3480897035?bof=cxkFWEkT
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Yeah, I needed some gearbox seals for the six speed, bought off of both Amayama, and Partsouq, and also bought what the dealer had in stock locally, so have a couple of spares now lol
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Yeah we have to give the LVVTA guys a hell of a lot of respect for everything they do for keeping the laws in check.
They have some interesting posts on facebook that went over how they were setup, and everything they actually do. If it wasn't for that group then we wouldn't be allowed to do anything at all to our cars. Let alone what we can do without a cert.
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Oh and how you can't add a valve to an exhaust, but OEM can have them... hate that one.
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I find these rules funny to be honest.
I used nite-shades on my FTO many years back, and never had an issue with WOFs etc, but another friend with the same car immediately failed his WOF for it.
And also, if it's factory, it's okay 🤷♂️.My new car has them as a factory option (only photo I have that shows them, but they're the factory-option tinted taillights.
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1 hour ago, blitzd808 said:
Have you got anything in the way of other suspension upgrades? I had my RS certed last year and they wanted an engineers report on the whiteline bump steer kit. Also had a bunch of suspension parts which were "too close" to other things and s**t like that but i cant even remember the specifics of that. I didnt need a driveshaft hoop and my tune came out at about 205kW on an aftermarket turbo.
I have the full whiteline bushings and bump steer kit. What did you do about the engineers report for that? Hadn't even thought of that.
Has Bilstein suspension and some springs, no adjustable suspension or aftermarket sway bars etc. -
Hey team,
So I was just thinking, I'd like to try for a cert at some point this year, but I'd like to be as prepared as possible.
I know there's a few here that have gone through the process, what are somethings that you should always check first, like the simple failures.Off the top of my head I can think of:
Heat shielding/blanket around turbo.Driveshaft hoops? This one always gets me, unsure when they're required, and if it's in the front or rear half of the shaft?
Brake lines secured
Not looking for advice as such (I know, talk to your cert guy).
But just little things that people have been picked up on that I could easily check before even going to the certifier.My mods for reference:
Engine power increase to 300whpAftermarket turbo
Aftermarket ECU
Automatic to 6sp manual swap
Front and rear brake upgrade (To BL/BP larger rotors - 2/1 pot calipers)
17" wheels
They're the main items I think.
So off the top of my head I need to put a heat shield on the turbo, and secure the TMIC better, but can't think of other things?
Not sure if Brake Bias would be affected with the larger brakes, and whether that'd be an issue.- 1
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2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Plus a big aftermarket dash sitting right in their face as they hop in 😂Thankfully don't have one in there anymore 🤣
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11 hours ago, boon said:
How on earth would ECU ever get picked up?
Link branded MAP sensor in the engine bay, and Link CAN-Lambda sensors. If I just cover them they'd not know. haha
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Yeah WOF failures are so hit and miss.
I had an FTO that for ~5 years had no issue passing WOFs with the wheel/tyre combo it had, until one day it failed on being above the 5% tolerance on tyre size increases. It was about 5.2%.The same also goes for a 5 -> 6 speed manual swap as well.
Aftermarket ECUs too area another good one that sometimes gets let through, sometimes not
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Yup I'd say it's the secondary air pump.
Does it do it for around 30 seconds, give or take?
can confirm if you record a video of the noise. Pretty standard if that's the caseCan be removed/deleted, requires blanking plates, and a special cable to remove from the ECU, but worthwhile, they're also a common failure point and put the car into limp mode.
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And definitely some CRC/penitr8 spray, especially for the turbo/exhaust bolts!
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Buildup of crankcase pressure would do that.
Check all of the crank and cam case vents, check the PCV etc.
Does it have an oil catch can, or the stock recirculation system?The worse option is that the rings could be bad, and the cylinder pressure is over-pressurising the crank case. This could be tested with a Cylinder leak-down test, if you do one, and you notice the air coming out of the dipstick (some will no matter what), then it's likely the rings.
I had issues with my Rally car and crankcase pressure, Turns out I had all 3 vents (EJ20G) going to one catch can with one small breather, it couldn't vent well enough, and push oil out the turbo and through the intercooler etc.
I adjusted the system so that it'd breath better, and suddenly I had less oiling issues.- 2
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54 minutes ago, Joker said:
Also a +1 for them too, they did some of the work and the tune on Dad's too, also excellent!
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Yeah another +1 for CroweSport Dad purchased his 2011 STi from there, and they were great for servicing and repairs after the purchase too, so would recommend even just for servicing.
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5 minutes ago, Gripless said:
Thanks guys.
ordered the 10A one., should be here tomorrow.
Looking at the trickle charger one but the big ones can do the same.still 12 hour on the s*** one I had was enough to get the car running and take people to get jabbed.
Sweet, that'll be a beast. The 0.8A one my friend had was so slow, but worked so well, which is why I grabbed the 7A.
The 10, should be nice and quick, and like you said, they still do the trickle functions too.- 1
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I 100% recommend the ctek battery chargers, I have their MXS7.0 it's super quick, and works well for recovering dead batteries too. A little expensive, but worth it for sure.
It comes up for sale often, and I picked it up around the $200-300 range.
They have smaller and much cheaper trickle chargers too, like the MXS0.8
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That's a CGC 3071R from Aus. Honestly not sure if it made much difference boost control wise, but it seems pretty stable so far.
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So while I haven't put a turbosmart gate onto a VF22, I went from a VF22 to a turbo with an IWG-75, and did take side-by-side pictures, it looks like it'd bolt right up.
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4 hours ago, Loren said:
That is a good question. I don't know what spec the current cams are. They came in the car... no markings and are a bit on the weird side. Without dialling them in they caused #2/#4 to run very lean,
and #1/#3 to run very rich. It lead to a great deal of head scratching to figure it out before I had adjustable cam gears. Once dialled in, that problem was solved to a degree, but they are still just bad.
Good power once spooled (at 5k rpm)... but s*** everywhere else. Very sluggish to get off idle... chronic fuel smell at idle... chronic fuel consumption all round. They are not high lift because the
heads haven't been modified to fit them and there is plenty of clearance... but I think they have a moderately large duration and a s*** load of overlap.
New cams are Kelford 199-j... short duration, high lift and almost no overlap. Should be night and day.
Wow that sounds exactly how mine currently drives 🤔
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Warrant of fitness failed due to being loud?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Yeah our old 2011 STI we put the R400 and a PBMS Catless downpipe onto.
Definitely was far too loud, but our local mechanic always passed it, VTNZ etc would fail it for certain.