Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×

Technikhaus

Subscribed Member
  • Posts

    988
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    95

Posts posted by Technikhaus

  1. Yeah we have to give the LVVTA guys a hell of a lot of respect for everything they do for keeping the laws in check.

    They have some interesting posts on facebook that went over how they were setup, and everything they actually do. If it wasn't for that group then we wouldn't be allowed to do anything at all to our cars. Let alone what we can do without a cert.

    • Like 3
  2. I find these rules funny to be honest. 
    I used nite-shades on my FTO many years back, and never had an issue with WOFs etc, but another friend with the same car immediately failed his WOF for it. 

    And also, if it's factory, it's okay 🤷‍♂️.

    My new car has them as a factory option (only photo I have that shows them, but they're the factory-option tinted taillights.

     

    5lz9azR.jpg

  3. 1 hour ago, blitzd808 said:

    Have you got anything in the way of other suspension upgrades? I had my RS certed last year and they wanted an engineers report on the whiteline bump steer kit. Also had a bunch of suspension parts which were "too close" to other things and s**t like that but i cant even remember the specifics of that. I didnt need a driveshaft hoop and my tune came out at about 205kW on an aftermarket turbo.

     

    I have the full whiteline bushings and bump steer kit. What did you do about the engineers report for that? Hadn't even thought of that. 
    Has Bilstein suspension and some springs, no adjustable suspension or aftermarket sway bars etc.

  4. Hey team, 


    So I was just thinking, I'd like to try for a cert at some point this year, but I'd like to be as prepared as possible. 
    I know there's a few here that have gone through the process, what are somethings that you should always check first, like the simple failures.

     

    Off the top of my head I can think of:

    Heat shielding/blanket around turbo.

    Driveshaft hoops? This one always gets me, unsure when they're required, and if it's in the front or rear half of the shaft?

    Brake lines secured

     

    Not looking for advice as such (I know, talk to your cert guy). 
    But just little things that people have been picked up on that I could easily check before even going to the certifier.

     

     

    My mods for reference:

    Engine power increase to 300whp

    Aftermarket turbo

    Aftermarket ECU

    Automatic to 6sp manual swap

    Front and rear brake upgrade (To BL/BP larger rotors - 2/1 pot calipers)

    17" wheels

     

    They're the main items I think.

     

    So off the top of my head I need to put a heat shield on the turbo, and secure the TMIC better, but can't think of other things?
    Not sure if Brake Bias would be affected with the larger brakes, and whether that'd be an issue.

     

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  5. Yeah WOF failures are so hit and miss. 
    I had an FTO that for ~5 years had no issue passing WOFs with the wheel/tyre combo it had, until one day it failed on being above the 5% tolerance on tyre size increases. It was about 5.2%.

     

    The same also goes for a 5 -> 6 speed manual swap as well.

     

    Aftermarket ECUs too area another good one that sometimes gets let through, sometimes not :/ 

    • Like 1
  6. Yup I'd say it's the secondary air pump. 
    Does it do it for around 30 seconds, give or take?
    can confirm if you record a video of the noise.  Pretty standard if that's the case :)

    Can be removed/deleted, requires blanking plates, and a special cable to remove from the ECU, but worthwhile, they're also a common failure point and put the car into limp mode.

    • Like 1
  7. Buildup of crankcase pressure would do that. 
    Check all of the crank and cam case vents, check the PCV etc. 
    Does it have an oil catch can, or the stock recirculation system?

     

    The worse option is that the rings could be bad, and the cylinder pressure is over-pressurising the crank case. This could be tested with a Cylinder leak-down test, if you do one, and you notice the air coming out of the dipstick (some will no matter what), then it's likely the rings.

     

    I had issues with my Rally car and crankcase pressure, Turns out I had all 3 vents (EJ20G) going to one catch can with one small breather, it couldn't vent well enough, and push oil out the turbo and through the intercooler etc. 
    I adjusted the system so that it'd breath better, and suddenly I had less oiling issues. 

     

    • Like 2
  8. 5 minutes ago, Gripless said:

    Thanks guys.

    ordered the 10A one., should be here tomorrow.


    Looking at the trickle charger one but the big ones can do the same.

     

    still 12 hour on the s*** one I had was enough to get the car running and take people to get jabbed.

     

    Sweet, that'll be a beast. The 0.8A one my friend had was so slow, but worked so well, which is why I grabbed the 7A. 
    The 10, should be nice and quick, and like you said, they still do the trickle functions too.

    • Like 1
  9. I 100% recommend the ctek battery chargers, I have their MXS7.0 it's super quick, and works well for recovering dead batteries too. A little expensive, but worth it for sure.

    It comes up for sale often, and I picked it up around the $200-300 range.

    They have smaller and much cheaper trickle chargers too, like the MXS0.8

     

    https://www.repco.co.nz/en/globes-batteries-electrical/battery-chargers-jump-starters-leads/car-battery-chargers/ctek-battery-charger-12v-7amp-mxs7-0/p/A1226799?kwSearch=ctek

     

    A1226799.jpg?context=bWFzdGVyfGltYWdlc3w

    • Thanks 1
  10. 4 hours ago, Loren said:

     

    That is a good question. I don't know what spec the current cams are. They came in the car... no markings and are a bit on the weird side. Without dialling them in they caused #2/#4 to run very lean,

    and #1/#3 to run very rich. It lead to a great deal of head scratching to figure it out before I had adjustable cam gears. Once dialled in, that problem was solved to a degree, but they are still just bad.

    Good power once spooled (at 5k rpm)... but s*** everywhere else. Very sluggish to get off idle... chronic fuel smell at idle... chronic fuel consumption all round. They are not high lift because the

    heads haven't been modified to fit them and there is plenty of clearance... but I think they have a moderately large duration and a s*** load of overlap.

     

    New cams are Kelford 199-j... short duration, high lift and almost no overlap. Should be night and day. 

     

     

     

    Wow that sounds exactly how mine currently drives 🤔

×
×
  • Create New...