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ris2t

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Everything posted by ris2t

  1. Small update. Had it within Winger Greenlane to see if any memory initialisation or frimware updates might do the trick. No joy, both failed. I confirmed the memory initialisation myself. Just hangs and doesn't really execute. Options seem to be: a) take it out and goes to Wellington for an attempted repair. I presume there is a specialised shop there. Via google aslautomedia.com.au in Australia seems to offer a repair. b) currently hunting for a second hand unit c) factory replacment. Lets just say I'm probably better investing in a new car .. If b) doesn't come through I'll explore a). Hunting around at aftermarket units. Apart from the idoing most seem to be challenged to hook into the Harmon Kardon speak system. Apparently the rear amp uses the CanBus for controls, and idoing atleast offers an adapter.
  2. 2016 WRX Premium - FV231KS Fujistu-Ten head unit. Seems to now freeze after a couple of button clicks. Needs a car turn off on again to get functions again for a couple of clicks. In isolation everything workds. Just suddenly started. Thinks beep but the screen won't refresh with the matching menu, but for example the radio will turn on. Or the reverse camera will engage, if the screen hasn't locked up by touching. Any one experienced this before? The diagnostic menu checks (home, 5 clicks of tune) all pass. Battery pulled over night made no difference. Smacks of a software glitch but not way to reset. --- Might be a dealer visit I think. Any suggestions on good aftermarket units that keep all the factor features, particular inbuilt-nav (not carplay stuff), steering controls, and reversing camera. I really like the manual on/off switch and volume but nothing really seems to have that now.
  3. If I recall correctly off ebay.
  4. Late to the topic but i've play in this space a bit. https://www.mictrack.com/product/4g-gps-tracker/ - this is what I currently run. Although I believe the preference now is NB-IoT models. I've also played with GT02A units. Using this with an upgraded external GPS antenna, 45mm/38db I think. Alot of these aliexpress/ebay units don't seem to use A-GPS so once your in a shadow spot of hills or car park you get no GPS signal. With each of the units I disable GPRS. Keeps the cost down, i.e. no monthly data usage. Use SMS to manually ping the location when I want. Although I've not used it most units typically allow you to change the "server" address so you don't have to use the Chinese ones. You can run your own one or one of the more opensource/community servers.
  5. "always ran at 15 psi " - on my 93 the primary ran around 9 PSI. 15 PSI sounds like bleeding too much either a) vacuum leak on the lines b) the boost solenoid is dud and not bleeding accurately. Recently had my primary boost control solenoid play up - swapped it with the on in the second control box and got smoother behaviour. Then replaced the dud one. "secondary at 8 psi " - secondary usually is around 11-13 psi, peaking at 15 near read line for me. Does your 96 have a secondary wastegate? I had the unfortunately experience of testing mine and having it jam open and lossing all secondary. Turns out carbon build up and rust scale of all things on the secondary wastegate port (unlikely experience). But if your boosting and boosting low that maybe a factor. Given your primary is way off I would more suggest a vacuum leak and/or the primary boost solenoid being an issue. Since that would also influence total secondary boost.
  6. Update#3: Replaced the AFM with a reconditioned unit. Been 3 weeks and no repeats of the problem, so I suspect this was the fault all along. Also smoothed out the power delivery which always had a flat the hiccup before go spot mid rpm.
  7. Excellent write up - i'm needed to remove my secondary, spins but not boosting for some reason. Question - the secondary bolts under the oil line. Do they come out ok from the head/bolt end or is access underneath also required. Looking at my 93 TT either a heat shield or possibly the cross member may be in the way to reach the underside.
  8. So tried a 2015 3.6R and 2014 WRX (2.0 Turbo) this weekend. The 3.6R is a very nice drive. Comfortable in it within 5 minutes. Nice 0 - 50kmh power and sharp round town driving. All the eye sight gadgets. Brakes were nice and tight an pulled up quick and sharp. Very clean and sharp interior. The cons: Despite its 191 odd kw the power delivery for an on ramp sprint or over taking was slower compared to my old TT or the WRX. Likely quick enough given Auckland car park motorways but a little disappointing compared to the theory of the torque curve and total power. Trade off I suppose. The B pillar for blind spot was rather large. Can see past it but not quite the big viability you'd hope for. Similarly the rear view mirror gave you a view but boxed in by the boot and rear window. The side mirrors gave good visibility. A little bit of body roll in the corners but nothing too bad - I'm use to firm suspension. 2014 WRX - hmm trim levels shockingly basic. Suspect it was a base model. All plastic bits and seats all mechanical adjust. And old style key rather than fob. Much nicer power delivery. Similar if not better pickup to the TT. Definite better on ramp sprint speed and associated overtaking. Nice firm suspension, no body roll on corners I took (or non to note) and going over speed bumps still smooth. Braking was a little longer and softer than expected but acceptable.
  9. Greetings Any owners on here of Legacy 3.6 RS models, 2013+ etc? Interesting in feedback/opinions. Looking to replace my ageing TT with either a 3.6 or 2.5T. Both seem rare and hard models to find. The torque curve and power figures of the 3.6 looks promising, close to a TT. I prefer the low down grunt of the TT with drivable torque vs outright top end. Do worry that the suspension on the Legacy might be a bit soft - use to my uprated adjustable KYB's in the TT. Thoughts on if the H6 makes the car a little nose heavy? Yet to test drive one to find out. Thanks Raymond
  10. UPDATE #2: So after swapping O2 and knock sensor and a good couple of weeks running the hesitation has happened again. Minor hits are part throttle when in car park and one clear issue when driving up an on ramp with gentle throttle. Still no issues when under full load. I do wonder if I've got a minor coolant leak (intake perhaps) that impacting ignition some how under partial load/vacuum. The heater core gets the sloshing sound now and again but somes and goes. Never could find a leak (no over heating) even with a pressure test. Next thoughts - IAC, this did get a partial clean when I did the O2 and knock sensor. Might explain the couple of weeks of no issue. - AFM - might have the bite the bullet and try a different one on the off chance - some kind of fueling issue (fuel pump/regulator) - discount this as this would me more likely under load.
  11. UPDATE: Replaced the knock sensor, that was an interesting exercise. Just enough clearance. Was relatively cheap sensor. The old one looked pretty good, no cracks, so doubt it was an issue. 3 days later I've fitted a second hand Oxygen sensor. 1/3 price of a new one so a gamble. No faults so far but its so intermittent. Will monitor and update if I don't get any reoccurrence.
  12. This and the knock sensor are my next consideration. Did you use an OEM sensor or generic replacement? Been seeing notes that suggest the OEM O2 sensor is needed. And fingers crossed it actually comes out
  13. I checked the coils when replacing the plugs. Replaced one of them as I cracked the insulator taking it out. No obvious marks of arching but probably worth me revisiting. I would have expected this to break down at higher revs though. And more feel like a misfire then cut out.
  14. Hi Looking for ideas on how to diagnose an annoying/intermittent problem. 1993 Subaru Legacy RS EJ20TT, 198k on the clock. Rarely but atleast once in the weekend - At part throttle the car stumbles like an engine or fuel cut but comes back immediately. Usually only does it once or twice. No issues under full throttle, e.g. clear on ramp powering up through the gears and boosting. Can drive around all day and not have it happen. Seems more prone after the care has been in use for a number of hours. Or being reused later in the day. Car idle is stable considering its age. Bit of fluctuation/hunting but all within about +/- 200rpm, aka normal for the car. When: #1 Most often occurs in 4/5 the gear driving along at constant speed around 2000 rpm. Hickup and continues on. Both motorway and clear city roads. #2 Had it once going up the driveway in 2nd gear around 2-2500 rpm. In this instance rpm dropped away (suspect because of the hill) before coming alive and continuing up the drive. #3 Happens now and again when gently pulling out of side roads around the 2500 to 3000 rpm. From the gauges - don't see any apparent drop in RPM - don't see any manifold pressure (vacuum) changes No check engine (CEL) light or codes when using the 1 wire plugs. Things done to date: - replaced spark plugs (over 100k km on them, but looking clean) - compression tested - ok based upon cold cylinders - changed crank and cam shaft sensors, just precaution - cleaned MAF, multiple times with little effect - intercooler and piping has been off and on multiple times with no impact or obvious pipe splits. - swapped ECUs, back to factory from a MINEs one. Still happens although slightly less frequency. - upper throttle and idle air control valve foam clean, no impact - changed a number of vacuum lines that were brittle, no impact - cleaned and flushed the vacuum assemble for the twin turbo circuit. No obvious leaks or switch issues. Other factors - been having issues with water rushing the in the heater core. Replaced the core as got blocked with stop leak (prevention). - no detectable coolant leak and a pressure test (when cold) holds for a while. NO overheating ever. - Even if there was a coolant, can't see how it would cause a intermittent stumble. Would expect poor idle. Thoughts? - fuel pump, fuel pump relay, injectors, regulator - I would expect these to be worse under load if an issue - sensor, electrical - can't think of anything else that would impact at part throttle and not throw a fault code. ANY Ideas appreciated Thanks Raymond
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