Batbaruman

i reckon think of it more like something that enables you to enjoy more consistency with your power delivery because ecu is not having to adjust for keeping things safe. outside a certain efficiency range a turbo will just turn in to a hair dryer and there is not really anything that will help, but yeh if intake temps are what is holding you back then go ahead by all means, otherwise dont have super high expectations

its all kinda irrelevant because the so called advantage which one might insinuate to make it an unfair comparison is very much the whole point of moving to the superior cooling design. the true function of intercooler is not directly a power upgrade item, it is all about improving efficiency of the turbocharger system. better intercooler will provide benefits of lower pressure drop and better at transferring heat away from the charged air. from first post it was already stated that same boost level was retained but it netted more power. the reason for this would have been the ECU did not have to trigger the intake temp safety adjustments with front mount hence without even any tuning differences, the power run would have shown higher power. i know in my car with the twisted turbo setup, it was like 0.5cm from touching the top mount hence heat soak was always evident and not something i could avoid with any kind of top mount within space i got in my engine bay. intake temps not long after cold start quickly rose to 30-35, peak boost at 55 celcius which would put it at 30+ degrees above ambient temps.. with my front mount i've never seen IAT rise higher than 28 degrees even in summer

thats pretty cool, which turbo and more importantly how was the power curve? getting more and more curious about what is the best bang for buck on the v7. i've learned in fairly expensive way that chasing top power is pointless and should be more concerned about the distribution of that power through the rev range.

on a high level, doesn't it just increase the area to pressurize, which directly affects your throttle response? in theory allows you to reserve a higher volume of pressurized air for a larger turbocharger application? why would better velocity in the pipe matter when your throttle body / intake manifold would take care of all that where it's really important? is that a bottle neck anyway?

hmm this assumes there is a linear relationship between injector duty cycle and wheel power output. i would have assumed the higher up you go in the power range, the richer you need to run the fuelling so you get less and less returns per injector dc% ?

yeh when i was trying ot research it, saw heaps of examples of otherwise stock car with just headers and exhaust changed. all sorts in the car community i guess,

wow, if you upped the fuel pressure would you reckon theres room for e85 and bit more boost pressure to push that thing further? or around there is the limit of id1000s?

well we all want power in different places also don't we. their cars being rwd i imagine they (for the most part) don't want turbos which are quite as peaky low down as ours from stock, think the original configurations with engine/turbo/drivetrain setups were to prioritise top speed on nissan vs pure acceleration on subaru

ooooomg that sounds thrilling haha. @Dairusire you reckon its worth changing now or just wait and do a bit more at once (bottom end refresh, turbo, flex fuel retune etc.) ? part of me wants to get as much out of car in current state as possible before i take it to the next level next year. my launch is currently with fuel cut @5500rpm but was contemplating playing around with ign%cut instead true but i don't like that feeling at all of the brake pedal when i have anti lag switched on hence i'm kinda willing to forgo that for street driving (i thought the one way valve in my booster hose was meant to help with that but doesn't seem to be). ive got it so when off throttle it can maintain around 0-2psi and start building boost as soon as i put foot down, which is better than the normal situation with this one as you know from having driven it, so i do get a 'snap' like response in low rpm but while i'm driving spirited way i'm always in high rpm anyway and responsiveness of turbo at high rpm is no problem at all, i switch gear put foot down and its right on target. is actually really good except for off the line / casual driving where i may get smoked by a nana car hence i wanna improve on that area first.

true, but to be honest i'm not really after proper rally style anti lag, perhaps what i'm after is not necessarily fitting within definition of anti lag since i'm less worried about what happens when foot is off throttle and more about enabling what i can to gain response when i flick switch and foot is on throttle failing that, i am pretty much happy to just switch anti lag off entirely and just wait it out until i get my new turbo next year and do a bit of refresh work including changing the springs over which i guess would be necessary anyways since would be running higher boost levels with something like efr 7163 and e85. would definitely still like to nail launch control though, not entirely sure where to / how to start. at present i seem to get to something like 2 psi at 5500 rpm with launch control on, i guess that's not how it should be, happy to experiment but would have been great to see some examples of it working on others setups then slowly upping my own numbers towards those points. never have had tire slip on launch , i must be doing it wrong yep hunting for pops on decel lol. i have overrun fuel cut disabled atm on the ol link but not getting any of them pops. my new found interest is very expensive

not an expert but couple obvious things going down here. this is very much an apples to oranges comparison rwd vs awd.. our awd subies have greater drivetrain loss, the dyno numbers being compared are at the wheels , hence we generally have to do a little more to squeeze more power not really fair to compare psi between different turbos (atleast from my limited understanding, not an engineer!) . different turbos will flow different rates of air (cfm) at same pressure level like boon said already, if you apply same turbo to both 2l engines then you're coming closer to a better comparison not familiar with the nissan community, but you mentioned they tend to get more power with less mods. we in subie community (atleast members of this forum) seem to care about longevity of our cars and do a lot of supporting mods for safety following turbo upgrades. for example one thing we pretty much have to do for street cars chasing higher power is switching to a front mount intercooler whereas many other cars get this from stock.

good stuff, welcome to clubsub and great choice with the v7 (also , welcome to #teambugeye :D) @Pappu1 is the recommended guy around Auckland for stock ecu remap on a fair price

im sure someone will know and maybe hes already a member here but one way to go about it could be to make up a note with forum link to leave under his wipers or something

so what is the point for most people where they decide they will replace factory STI headers with after market ones such as the one being discussed here? the product description says it will net extra power and spool the turbo faster, is that true in all applications or only really when chasing very high power output with modified engine etc?

have always been a bit paranoid of the potential for damage , in your opinion is it relatively fine for sti gearbox? could be something im willing to experiment with my valve springs are stock as far as i know

hey guys, anyone got examples of anti lag / launch control set up on their link g4/g4+? i've been starting to play around with things (gently) but not sure exactly where best to start, figured i'd ask for an example and see what i can learn from there. i want to build more boost off the line and yeh bit immature/ricerish but wouldn't mind some flames/pops. not too concerned about maintaining boost through shifts but a nice pop/burble wouldn't go unappreciated on shift my anti lag/ launch control is currently set up to activate via same digital input but i can separate them if that's better.

no worries mate, have been on quite a journey with mine and it's by no means over yet. just giving out what i've learnt so far, i did go overkill on somethings and cheaped out in other areas so yeah just sharing that to keep people making the same mistakes lol. lots of good info coming out here which i'm also taking note of for myself - great to see that other people are stating they make higher power on quite easily so for my situation it means i shouldn't have to upgrade my id1050 injectors when i eventually upgrade turbo and switch to flex fuel for e85 tune. tune wise you will get plenty of different answers and it's worth finding the one you think best suits your requirement. i'm also in Auckland. personally i went with clubsub sponsor @PBMS (Possum Bourne Motorsport) who are based in Pukekohe. i liked their approach and Julian handled my 100s of annoying queries (i am naturally an overthinker lol) with a lot of patience. it's a bit far away but they keep it real and try focus more on delivering what you want while keeping it safe for road use (and legal) rather than inflating the dyno numbers one way or the other or bulshitting you about power/economy expectations. i don't exactly nana my car, only gets driven on the weekend so though it hasn't driven far since the tune last year (5000kms), they're all very hard k's and it hasn't blown up yet which is a testament to both Ajay that worked on helping sort everything out/help me with maintenance at ( @Subirex Automotive) and the tuner at PBMS. I believe @THUNDA is dealing with a tuner out west auckland currently so keep an eye on his thread too, which I'm also personally keeping a close eye on.. nothing against my previous tuner but yeah that's 10 mins return drive vs 4hrs return drive+half a tank of petrol for me so naturally curious what someone more local can do

with the e85 side of things you'll def want to get flex fuel sensor so that at any moment there can be different mixtures of e85 / unleaded 98 and it'll auto adjust to run fine. get this sorted before your tune so you only have to do it once. not sure what area you're in but make sure your local tuner is comfortable to perform this tune on carberry rom on your stock ecu otherwise you need to travel bit further to find someone who is comfortable with that, or get the tuners ecu of choice which means factoring in more $$ for that aimed power level you're definitely gonna need bigger injectors. id 1050x for 98 and potentially id1300s for e85 (check with your tuner what he recommends, i'm not sure the limit of id1050 but it seemed to run just fine for me at 240ish wkw on 98 with plenty duty cycle left) yes go top mount for sure. i got an hdi kit which fit in quite well, allowed me to keep the stock fog lights not that i really use them but i just like the way they look lol. more importantly it's of pretty high quality with super efficient core. you will have much less worries about heat soak when you start pushing high boost etc. with front mount also. td05 will acheive your power but you should really consider the more modern turbo ranges. i know theres a bit of a price difference but modern turbochargers with their advanced technology will deliver better power levels more efficiently and more importantly the boost curve will be more sexier (as in you won't have near as much lag during daily driving scenarios) you will need to change to an ethanol compatible fuel pump depending on how much boost you will run, you may need new map sensor but check with your tuner. shouldnt need new maf sensor since will probably run speed density but again best said by the person tuning it. recommend you to check some of the 'optional' mods also when you start pushing higher power levels, such as : oil cooler, oil catch can, split fuel rails shopping list : turbo injectors flex fuel sensor fuel pump ethanol compatible fuel lines to replace the factory rubber stuff. if you already have replaced with fuel lines make sure they are ethanol compatible front mount kit w/piping labour to install above maybe map & maf sensors

super tempted aye, probably next year be getting me a nice little efr turbo if it turns out that i won't have to change injectors to hit 300wkw mark (with better response than what i currently have, which probably wont' be that hard lol)

126 pages? mate what page is the details of how to set one up in an ej207 to make the floor pans fall off?

usually i just adjust the pressure according to what i want. if i know will be some more sporty driving and i'll be alone then will put it down to 35 cold pressure. if will be cruising around with passenger full of cars then 40-42psi. generally just sits around 38 for me. i feel as though i have less contact patch by a great deal when 'm just on my own in car and it's 42psi so that's very much so at the high end, atleast for my v7. in other cars have run different pressures front and back but not sure how critical that is with the subi awd system and if it messes with diff or anything if all 4 aren't even in that regard.

nice DIY coffee scented air freshener for your car. should suggest MCM do an episode on this

i beleive grids should be fine fyi can use this site to compare stock set up to your new setup (stock from memory is 225/45/17 53offset 7.5" wide on 01 sti) https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=225&aspect=45&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7.5&offset=53&width2=245&aspect2=40&wheel_size=18&wheel_width=9-5&offset2=35 is that really a good tire profile for 9.5" wide wheels? i don't think it would be stretched much but it seems like it's on the smaller side, just curious how that affects the sidewall design on a performance tire like the t1r

do not settle for v7 wrx. will probs be disappointed. go for the sti..doesnt cost that much. maybe drive test one of each. obvs if you need auto then your only choice is the wrx, but the 6speed manual gearbox in the sti is unrivalled, test driving the 5 spd in wrx was absolute deal breaker for me.

half way there now