swamp
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Posts posted by swamp
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Yup unfortunately for a lot of wrx fans, they are yet to find out this ugly truth
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Is it otherwise a straightforward swap?
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@THUNDA my car had been stolen and they had broken the tabs the switch fits in.
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After much head scratching, trying different things and sometimes same things over and over, I’ve solved this problem!
it didn’t help that the wiring diagrams - I’ve seen about three different sources - are have different wiring colours and don’t have repair/troubleshoot procedures. Meaning that I’ve had to puzzle together what info they’ve given and combine that with past knowledge and experience which isn’t that extensive.
I saw this video at the start of the day, and thought I’d perhaps test this out if all fails. Because I was 90% certain that the tail lights can operate without the park light switch.
my wires were orange and white with green stripe.-
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Thanks for your reply @Gripless
I’ve tested it with all the bulbs in after checking that each bulb/holder works.
Yesterday I hooked up the +/- of each bulb to a battery to test and they all worked.
ive checked the rear plug and the one under the dash, the wire at both plugs show the same result. So thus there isn’t any voltage from the front.
I really think it’s an issue with the switch. Or relay as you suggest.
it could also be the park light switch on top of the column, perhaps that needs to be connected to complete the circuits.
I don’t know which relay it is Lol, I’ll go over the diagrams with fresh eyes.
Are you testing with all bulbs removed on the tail lights? Maybe one side has a short or corroded. If you can test at the plugs under or near the rear seats. That may tell you if the issue is at the front or rear of the car. If you have voltage there then the issue isn’t the switch or fuse box damage.
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Hey guys I’m chasing electrical gremlins with no luck thus far.
my tail lights do not work. The brake lights do, so do the number plate bulbs that run off the same circuit as the tail lights.
I did have a leak in the tailgate centre garnish, so siliconed it up. The bulb holders got a bit corroded so I got in there with a rotary tool and replaced one that was Too far gone. New bulbs too, but the old ones still work.
my car was recently stolen and recovered, I haven’t tested the light switch which could’ve been damaged? But they did wreck the column and the park light switch that sits atop it. I haven’t tested this circuit but I have managed to press the switch against its contacts and made the relay click but haven’t seen the lights come on.
Ive found that the tail light power wire has >1 volt at the connector at the rear. This is also the same at the connector behind the under-dash fuse box.
I’ve checked all relays - not properly but can hear em click - and my fuses are working. But I need some advice as I’m missing something..
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I really would like an SVX
they’re amazing to look at and must be to drive too. Only an engine/manual swap away from unleashing the potential.
Also after owning a BH9 Lancaster 2.5 I would consider something like an ez30/ez36-powered outback. They have a higher tow rating than the 2.5 and I really do like the practicality of the BH platform but would go newer possibly.
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cheers guys my rocker cover gasket was a relative breeze
For anyone with a big engine say ej254 or ez30 I recommend this Koken quick spinner part no 2756
I got this from Amazon along with other Koken tools I used on this, love my 72 tooth 150mm flex head 3/8” ratchet! They’re priced pretty well and they’re quality.
I jacked the engine up off the sump, all three engine mounts have to be loosened up. I found that the easiest way to get your engine to line back up with the mounts is do the top one first, use a screwdriver or chisel to pry it in place. Use lube and a gentle hammer if the bolt needs a bit of help getting in.
but be smart! Don’t be like me and jack the sump up with cardboard. Get a bit of wood! I dented my sump. It doesn’t leak, is covered by the under tray, and is getting sold soon, so all good!
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Cheers @Gripless it looks like it’ll be a 50/50 chance at getting it when buying a second hard part.
though 3d print+replacement spring+bit of glue could be a solution
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Hello all just wondering how to fix this issue.
basically the steering wheel locks when turned repeatedly in one direction,but on my vehicles it does not.
Is there a part that can be replaced?
I have a 1995 GF8 which had a steering rack replacement and more recently a 2000 BH9 which was stolen, but I got it back, and they’ve damaged the ignition. I’d like to restore it to factory lock as well with my wrx. Cheers.
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I bought one of these a while back. It came in a ‘Billion’ box which I didn’t even know was an actual brand. Pretty good and seems to work, cut a hole in your bumper for the dorts
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Big dredge but
I have an EJ254
the bottom corner bolts hit the subframe..is it as simple as undoing the two 14mm bolts on the lower engine mounts, and the one going through the upper one, then jacking up the engine off the sump a little bit to where the bolts have enough room to come out?
Sorry, first time doing this job.Cheers
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Hey guys
So I was removing my timing belt and waterpump (ej254, dohc)
Had the crank and all my cams lined up properly, but while removing the waterpump I must have bumped/shaken things so much the passengers side exhaust cam moved out of alignment.
A quick Google suggests it is fine to manually move the cam counter clockwise back into alignment,
Can anyone here confirm that's fine? As many sites out there aren't very trustworthy sources. Cheers
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Not just today but since Friday arvo
And also to the daily not a Soobie
Fitted HKS SMF filter+piping 2.5"->3"
Sounds brilliant at wide open throttle
Happy I went genuine, usually I go with the cheapest option but it is awesome 10/10 woul trade again. Sounds meaner than the standard pod on my gf8, which gives off a sucking whistling sound...
Removed rear garnish, rear badges, exhaust manifold heat shield, intake manifold, valve cover, prepped, cleaned, masked and painted them hi temp black or either motortech underseal, both finished with 2k clear
Rest of engine bay looked too dirty, tonight I'll put it all back together.
During the week will do small jobs like replacing cable ties/s*** hose clamps with hose clamps, gluing small items, cleaning engine bay etc replacing boring stuff like a broken washer bottle as I'll put it through for a wof this week.
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Do you need a big-ish printer to do things like gauge pods/cupholders etc? Considering they are bigger items
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On 23/11/2020 at 8:28 AM, Technikhaus said:
Finally test fitted the rear tyre carrier, pretty happy with it, and it definitely gives it the distinctive Gravel Express look.
Just need to work out how the it mounts permanently, setting the height etc, and also build a catch for it, as it's the only main part I don't have.And of course attempt to remove the advertising on it.
Late reply but try using a heat gun, dont go too hot as it is plastic
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Is it hard to start? Could be crank angle sensor?? I've had a nissan sr20de that had a range of problems and the crank angle sensor caused random stalling and hard starting. Sometimes the van refused to go over 60kmh.
If it were me I'd go through and check pcv hoses, throttle body, spark plugs, leads, check it's getting good fuel pressure, iacv, afm, start with the basics.
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Bought this thing sight unseen. It turned out having extensive service history back to when it was new, previous owner had it for 10 years and bought it for approx 3200 iirc. 4AFE 5MT 4AGE 20V, just kidding 4AFE 1600, with 267000km on the clock. I paid 1200 for it.
A few small dents here and there, really minor rust issues from stone chips etc, some paint fade, and a slightly bad valve cover gasket but no really bad issues.
Took a midnight intercity bus down to Wellington, driver was a 0/10 and they catfished me with nice pics of a $$$ luxury upgrade, all I got was a seat upstairs.
Drove it back through the desert road midwinter and the tyres while wofable were a little crackly in places and being skinny chinese 175/65r14s were a little sketchy.. so the first thing I did was replace them with 195/65r14s from the prelude that had mint chinese tyres.
With the rather tall tyres it does fill the wheel arch nice but yeah that ride height.
I've only given it a wash once and a quick cut/polish before these pics.
I think some panels have been resprayed at some stage
Only mods I've done to it are the wheels and a few shirtstuckedin / mightycarmods stickers lol, and put in a more widely used style fuel filter after damaging the hard lines. I've done all 3 filters, oil and coolant change and replaced the spark plugs and valve cover gasket. I actually used 3 of one type and 1 that had -11 as the suffix, 11 being a 1.1mm gap. Due to repco/supercheap guys being unable to find them out the back I simply gapped the plugs. The plugs and fuel filter were all original 1996 spec.
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Added to watch later
Thanks izichard
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If you're really unsure, chuck some UV leak detection dye in your oil and run it for a week maybe. Then put on the glasses that come with the kit and the uv torch and itll pinpoint where the leak(s) are..
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Supercharged? Was it sold here in NZ? Sounds super rare. You may have to speak to a kiwi/aussie on the ground in Japan or someone trustworthy in a country where they were sold in high numbers if you can't get one in NZ.. May even have to buy whole car or half cut.
It can't hurt to contact wreckers, but being an older ace, which is quite a rare car like the leones/justy it's likely a lot of them won't have anything. Maybe make a long list of wreckers and call them all first. Would be cheaper to get engine locally than from overseas or donor car.
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On Saturday picked up my AE101R Corolla, today fitted oem BA5 Prelude wheels with near new (chinese) 195/65r14 tyres on them, taller tyre than the oe 175/65r14s, fills the wheel arches better.
Chucked the preludes 30 y/o spare on the prelude, plus the 3 worst tyres from the Corolla on it, including the full size spare that was *mint* no cracks lots of tread but can't risk running a 24y/o tyre.
Drove it back cautiously through the desert road, one tyre was tough and cracked bad, one was a bit bald despite being warranted. Ripping fwd wheel spin is fun (on said crappy tyres) but I want to look after my new daily
Was kinda sketchy, so knew better than to push it on damp frosty roads especially with those strong winds.
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I picked up a daily today from wellywood, there must've been something going on today as there was a v1/2 555 liveried GC8 around as well as many tough looking later model sti/wrx. (and mx5s, but we won't go there lol).
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Znoelli are highly rated from what I read online. And supposedly quite affordable direct.
Maybe not just read this is daily driving use only.
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Help wiring car alarm indicators and door locks: BH Legacy Lancaster
in Electrical
Posted
Hey guys I’ve been having trouble wiring my alarm in my daily after some c***s stole it.
it’s a Subaru outback (BH), 2000 and the alarm is a keyless entry push button start one. The ignition wiring was straightforward.
I’ve been struggling with wiring in the indicators that flash when the remote unlock or lock is activated, as well as the door locks.
the indicator wires are both + according to the diagram, but they don’t work when hooked up to the + of the wires at the hazard switch, indicator switch, and the side indicator.
I’m able to get the doors to unlock, but cannot get them to lock. Initially I believed I had a single pulse negative set up and got a latching relay and 5 pole spdt relay, but I think another wiring diagram I’ve found is what I’ve got:
The car alarm diagram:
the plan I followed:
the relays:
Factory keyless entry option which I don’t have: