swamp

I did my girlfriend's ford festiva headlights with 180g and 240g and cut and polished, turned out alright but would advise using finer grades after to get rid of scratches. Would be satisfying on yellow as hell lights.

Got it done in less than a day the other week, I followed a great method on here - raising front, pouring in while massaging air out of hoses, then bleed with car on, revving every couple of mins, then bleed with cap on. My car now runs a few degrees lower than halfway but was creeping up when moving slow... I put that down to it self bleeding/overflow bottle needed refilling. Upper hose kinda leaks air when squeezed now, probably needs replacing soon! Anyway if anyone else is doing a bleed, look up the above method. It'll take you half a day tops.

Hey guys I haven't come across these factory service manuals on this forum yet so below I've got links to FSM for Imprezas. Wiring diagrams included. Also have a few for certain Legacy and Forester models. Should save us the effort of browsing other forums. http://ken-gilbert.com/page/3?s=impreza+manuals&x=18&y=14 http://forum.wrx.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=45443

Have ran my 95 gf8 JDM import mainly on gull 98 and its been fine and I've done almost 30,000km. If you run fuel injector cleaner every now and then just as preventative maintenance then should be allgood. Gull said it's allgood and Subaru said it's allgood.

Is that air suspension?! From a pre-2000 Subaru owner

Flickr failed for me. Can report Imgur goes well, if Flickr doesn't, go for Imgur.

I've done this to my single turbo ej20g, with silicon and rad hose and gasket maker and a whole lot of hose clamps. Bigger diameter than stock pipe. Butt dyno too inaccurate imo but I don't have a gaping hole in mine anymore and holds boost nicely

Hi all I am a noob and do want to replace my (broken) factory bov with one such as a hks ssqv or V6 sti I believe it's an HKS unit. However the problem is that my turbo inlet which is on the early wrxs uses a hose rather than a flange to the turbo-intercooler pipe. I don't run the factory pipe rather I use radiator/silicon Hose as mine broke. To fix this, would I either have to get some silicon Hose, drill a hole to fit flange? Or is it best to buy a factory hose?

You could always go to one WOF inspector, if they are anal about tints and you don't want to go through the hassle of removing them shop around til you find one that doesn't ping you on the tints. Lower cars should be allowed a bit of leeway that the vans etc get, no fun being low and getting shone to S*** by the hilux tailgating you.

Does anyone have an app or something they can recommend to upload images to the forum? I have uploaded photos from my Flickr before but that was from my PC that's no longer working. Now, everything gives a link that must be clicked on. It's much better to have the photos right there and then on the forum than force people to click links.

That CAI for an n/a 6 in place of an intercooler is genius. Obvious HP/torque gains with the ECU but how does the weight of the ez30r stack up against the ej20/eg205?

Cheers @RaKid for your help, my car now goes sweet!

I've got mine set up exactly like that. Just I don't know where the other end goes.. my guess is to the turbo-intercooler pipe.. I've blocked it off as I have no way to connect it to that pipe, having replaced it with silicon/rad hose.

Hey guys does anyone know where this tee'd hose should go/what it does? My guess is boost gauge... It's the last hose to go in and there's only one nipple, on the throttle body. I'm guessing that the other section would go to a point between the turbo-intercooler pipe... That I've since replaced with a silicon Hose as that pipe had a huge split in it. Solution - remove tee and just connect to throttle body? https://photos.app.goo.gl/WrHJ8r4iZJK42nFp6

Cheers for that, that's a massive help. I'm wondering about the EGR valve? Brown little thing above boost solenoid. The long vac hose coming out of the right of it goes to the middle nipple of the intake manifold, right? I think I had the post AFM hose from boost solenoid left unattached, mixed up with another hose. Probably why I had a few issues haha

Hey guys i have a WRX gf8 wagon with the ej20gdw1ne which is an early WRX engine. Long story short I removed my intake manifold one day to paint lol and ended up getting mixed up with the hoses. Ended up having issues such as uprpm not reading correctly and sluggishness. Anyway these are the hoses I'm wondering about: On the left side of engine bay, round thing (boost solenoid?) I have the top hose going to the turbo-intercooler pipe, middle hose to wastegate, but I'm not sure where the lower hose goes. Above that is a little red thing with a hose coming out of it. Where does that one go? Also there is a pipe coming out of my turbo down pipe that faces the engine block - I can't ever remember having anything connected to that. There's this hose which is teed off too - I think it comes from my boost gauge. Here's some engine bay pics. I'm not sure if I've got the Top three little hoses on the IM right but I've got the left one that goes to the bov blocked off. I'm putting bov back in so yeah. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6C2vjWcN5RMCQNmP9 Thank you all.

Hey all I've pulled off my intake manifold and checked that the two sensors at the back of the coolant tree are connected, which they are. From memory my car never overheated once I removed the thermostat. I'm going to try reinstalling the intake manifold, coolant fill tank once I clean it, and new OEM thermostat and bleed it with 100% water in there. If it doesn't overheat then I will drain and refill with coolant. That means my issue was most likely the thermostat...

You're right. I've only ran no thermostat to see if that really does fix the issue. So far so good. Car has been bled and after 2 fan cycles and a little driveway test, no overheating. Only thing I haven't really done is a test drive. I won't be driving it at all, until I get a new thermostat, as well as flushing it and replacing the coolant(*water) in there.

UPDATE: So today I pulled off the lower rad hose and managed to undo the two 10mm bolts on the water spout/thermostat housing(?). The coolant within my radiator was the colour of muddy water whereas when I was undoing the thermostat and had it removed the coolant was more green. Could've been a sign the two weren't mixing? Ripped off the thermostat and it was much harder than the internet would have you believe. Big hands tight spaces are no fun. Tested it in boiling water and it did not open up - im not sure if I did it right but I boiled it at high temp to get it as hot as I could. Still no luck. Im going to conclude that it is a stuck thermostat causing my issues! I'm not sure how it would be explained when I was overheating, but it would be cool to get a better understanding of it all. I'm guessing hot coolant got blocked at the thermostat, and the radiator was trying to send cool coolant through system. I will order a genuine unit - does anyone know best dealership to get in touch with? I'll also get a like for like radiator cap. I really want an sti one but I've read the extra pressure is not good for non sti cooling system longevity. When I have the money I will also order some Subaru Oem coolant - something about different metals leading to corrosion... Til then I will run no thermostat and just water. Good thing she's not daily driven! Fyi I think my thermostat is non oem if anyone can confirm. On it is written 170N 23 43 STC / 56MM USA

Dont you think it's weird though, that a thermostat would stop working as a result of the things I've done to the cooling system, even though it was working fine before? I'm thinking if I go over the work I've done pull off IM and double check and everything's fine, the next step I should take is inspecting thermostat and rad cap. I've never had to troubleshoot overheating issues before. I'm just wondering if it is actually possible for a thermostat to go bad after filler tank has been disconnected.

I will test the thermostat then. If that's the issue I will replace - most people go with oem rather than aftermarket, right? I feel it could be something I did not reconnect properly, such as the coolant temp sensor, or something not connected to the coolant tube that runs below the intake manifold. It's weird that my thermostat may be at fault - I do have all/most of the symptoms of a bad thermostat - but it was working fine prior to the work done. I don't know if it could happen, but maybe all the water rushing out+air pockets acting on it killed my thermo which was probably on its way out anyway. Iwould replacing the radiator cap be a waste of money? I suppose it could be that I've connected a hose wrongly, it's sending coolant to the wrong place, and the thermostat is functioning fine but no coolant from the radiator is being sent to the engine.

Just from looking at the temp gauge. It usually runs a tad over half way, which I guess is from being filled with more water than coolant, and because turbo Subaru engine bays are relatively Hot. It goes from anywhere between 3/4 of the way up to all the way up. Last night sat at just a bit under the highest point.

Bad news. I bled the car today with the front jacked up, but after getting the fans to cycle on and revving, the car overheated. With the rad cap off. This says to me it's not that there's an issue with air in the system. Im guessing I've mixed up hoses. From the tank, top one leads to the turbo. Bottom hose leads to the metal coolant 'tunnel'beneatj the intake manifold. I've forgot its proper name. I'll have to remove IM when I get back next week and have a look.

Hi guys Car in question is a GF8 with an ej20g engine. Recently I disconnected my coolant fill tank when I removed my intake manifold for painting and I've had an overheating issue since. I've bled the system alot and I think I've got the majority of the air out of it. I am using straight water though but that'll be remedied when I do flush the system. Today (second day of bleeding) everything looked stable no air coming out of the coolant, so I fitted my rad cap and took her for a test drive with the temp gauge in usual spot. Not long after that, it overheated. Ive shut my engine off and given it a rest for five min and it has gone right back down to midway. It quickly rose though. The temp gauge does fluctuate, so does the tachometer intermittently, mainly when I was off throttle rolling downhill. That suggests to me I've reconnected something incorrectly. I am pretty confident I've reconnected coolant hoses from the tank properly - the one at rear leads to the metal bit on top of the engine beneath the manifold, not to the block directly. I don't see any oil in coolant or coolant in oil. It could be an issue with my heater, as my a/c does not work due to a short. However my car was not overheating before when the heater was not working. Coolant does gush out once cap is removed Hot and steam. I'm at a loss as to what it could be. I'm guessing it's my half arse intake manifold job. I really hope I haven't hooked up an oil hose to where a coolant hose has supposed to go.